Now I will try to tackle this.View attachment 74218
Thanks Heaterman, I was looking for ball valves,Garn recommends using black iron for the first 4 to 6 feet then a dielectric coupler then a change of metals is ok. So far I have only found brass valves. What do you think? I have ordered most parts from OFS they were very helpfull switch the plate to a sidearm for dhw as I have very hard well water.Return water protection is absolutely not needed on a Garn and in fact will prematurely and unnecessarily dilute the storage temperature. Eliminate figure 2 in your drawing. Let that beast pound as much heat as it can into the heat exchanger. Reurn water protection is for mere mortal wood burners.
Piping from the HX to the Garn; Install a tee with a boiler drain and then a ball valve on both the supply and return. This will allow you to isolate the HX in the future should it need to be chemically cleaned.
RE: compensating for threads in steel pipe, 1/2" is going to be close for small diameter, about 3/4" for larger pipe like your 1-1/4". Usually you try to leave 2-3 imperfect threads showing, don't bury the thread in the fitting. I had a guy working for me once that figured everything should be tightened with a 36" pipe wrench. Needless to say he actually cracked a few 1/2 and 3/4" fitting. LOL
We like steel and use it nearly exclusively.
We used Rehah 1,25 insulated pipe.You can see it coming out of the ground in the last pic.Are you going to foam-in-trench the pipe?
TS
Thanks Heaterman, I was looking for ball valves,Garn recommends using black iron for the first 4 to 6 feet then a dielectric coupler then a change of metals is ok. So far I have only found brass valves. What do you think? I have ordered most parts from OFS they were very helpfull switch the plate to a sidearm for dhw as I have very hard well water.
A friend is loaning me a threader "Ridged ratchet type" ,I have a chop saw for cutting I think will work, or would you get a proper cutter.tx
Do you insulate the black iron in the boiler room ?You'll get a workout with the ratchet threader for sure but if the dies are in good shape it will cut a nice thread. Be generous with the cutting oil but try to get most of it out of the pipes before installing them.
Brass valves will be fine.
OK now I get it, I thought you meant you couldn't get 1.25 pex for the burial run. Wow $74 for a stick of 1.25" copper![]()
Holy schnikes Batman! It's $48 for 1.25" here at Lowe's and thats retail price type L (they don't carry M) The supply house wants more than that for type M.
That was at a wholsale only plumbing supply, at 48 I would choose copper , soldering is easier than threading.OK now I get it, I thought you meant you couldn't get 1.25 pex for the burial run. Wow $74 for a stick of 1.25" copper![]()
Holy schnikes Batman! It's $48 for 1.25" here at Lowe's and thats retail price type L (they don't carry M) The supply house wants more than that for type M......
TS
We have three copper mines within 50 miles but all the ore goes to China to be processed. I guess I shouldn't groan my oldest son works at the nearest mine 44 per hr keeps his family fed.
OK now I get it, I thought you meant you couldn't get 1.25 pex for the burial run. Wow $74 for a stick of 1.25" copper![]()
Holy schnikes Batman! It's $48 for 1.25" here at Lowe's and thats retail price type L (they don't carry M) The supply house wants more than that for type M......
TS
First fire this weekend,filled with water and pre clean turned on the circ pump and lit the beast.Hard to believe it worked exactly like the manufacturer said it would,smoked a bit at first with paper and kindling but when the big wood caught it just roared no smoke. The beginning water temp 62 two and half hrs later 160 with seven large sticks of wood, it was a warm day and no load but still I was very impressed. I wish the secondary side of the was going as well, bought everything to do black iron but can't get a good thread on pipe. tried two threaders ,both left threads torn out , plumbery blames it on offshore steel. I guess I can return the black iron and go with copper it's only money.
Good God, I thought I paid a lot a year ago for 1.25 L but it's up to 50 bucks a stick now? The one thing that I never went to the supply house for was pipe, both iron and copper, they simply could not match HD/Lowes and it was all the same brands. Heck, like you said why pay more for M when you can get L? Iron fitting on the other hand, I'll try never to buy another one at either of the big box stores...
I did notice that copper varied a lot from HD to Lowes though.
K
Oct 2 and still have tomatoes no frost yet crazy.
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