FP30 or Summit Insert Air Control Mod?

[Mike M.]

Good Morning - was just curious if anyone on here with an FP30 or Summit insert has tried to modify the air control lever for increased fire control and burn times? My thought was to grind away a small amount of metal on the right side of the slot to allow the air to be shut off more. Was going to start with maybe another 1/2 in of air lever travel. This unit is my 5th non cat stove I have burned in and it has the least amount of control compared to others. I do have a perfectly straight 25 foot chimney on the stove and 2/3 tapped off outside air intake. More adjust would be nice especially during extreme cold weather.

 

[Kevin Weis]

I don't have this stove but it seems that the newer the stove the less control you have on the burn rate. Also appears this is on purpose by design. If not by primary air then by some sort of secondary air intake. This seems to be done so that it would be virtually impossible to "smolder" the fire no matter how low you put the primary air intake setting. I'm supposing to meet EPA requirements. So if we want more control to adjust for install differences we must modify the air intake system somehow unfortunately. On a good note it seems for the most part this is easy enough to do even for the mechanically challenged. Just my thoughts.

 

[vwmike]

With good dry wood and a straight 25' chimney you could used a little less air. I modified mine on my summit A series to close more. I don't close it all the way most of the time, but sure is handy sometimes.

 

[Mike M.]

With good dry wood and a straight 25' chimney you could used a little less air. I modified mine on my summit A series to close more. I don't close it all the way most of the time, but sure is handy sometimes.

Thanks! If possible could you please post a picture? How much travel distance did you gain?

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[Mike.O]

I have a summit and toyed with this idea. I would try to notch the lever instead of grinding the tab. Once you grind the tab there's no going back. If you can carefully notch the lever it would be the same result and you could always just get a replacement lever.

Haven't modified anything, but that how I pictured myself doing it if needed.

 

[Mike M.]

I have a summit and toyed with this idea. I would try to notch the lever instead of grinding the tab. Once you grind the tab there's no going back. If you can carefully notch the lever it would be the same result and you could always just get a replacement lever.

Haven't modified anything, but that how I pictured myself doing it if needed.

Yeah that is not a bad idea. Not sure how to access the lever on the FP30 for replacement. Possibly you can reach it from the bolted floor access. I had that open once but was working on the fans and didn't notice the lever.

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[begreen]

I have a summit and toyed with this idea. I would try to notch the lever instead of grinding the tab. Once you grind the tab there's no going back. If you can carefully notch the lever it would be the same result and you could always just get a replacement lever.

Haven't modified anything, but that how I pictured myself doing it if needed.

Not the best plan. If necessary, the stop tab can be bent slightly. That is restorable.

 

[Mike M.]

I have the FP30 so it's a long narrow rectangular shape cut in the unit surround. Possibly there is a mechanical stop also but looks more like the air control hits the right side of the rectangle as the stop. I can get a picture later....

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[gusguy]

I have an A series fp30 so it might be different but I was able to use a rectangle shape magnet to choke down the primary. It's not permanent and easily adjustable to fine tune . I question if I have too much draw when it gets cold because my secondarys get rolling pretty good but the magnet helps a little.

 

[vwmike]

Thanks! If possible could you please post a picture? How much travel distance did you gain?

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Sorry I don't have a pic was fixing up a $100 beater so I didn't hesitate to grind down the stop. I also had run the smaller vista on my same chimney and had foil taped over part of the hole so I knew I had strong draft. I would try that first. My wood is 15 %mc soft woods so that makes a big difference too.

 

[Mike.O]

Interesting Begreen. Curious why notching the air control lever the width of the tab by 1/4" depth to allow it to swing closed more would be bad? It's just allowing the lever to close more.

 

[Mike M.]

I have an A series fp30 so it might be different but I was able to use a rectangle shape magnet to choke down the primary. It's not permanent and easily adjustable to fine tune . I question if I have too much draw when it gets cold because my secondarys get rolling pretty good but the magnet helps a little.

Where are you locating the magnet?

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[Mike M.]

I have the FP30 so it's a long narrow rectangular shape cut in the unit surround. Possibly there is a mechanical stop also but looks more like the air control hits the right side of the rectangle as the stop. I can get a picture later....

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Here is a picture although not a very good one

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[begreen]

Interesting Begreen. Curious why notching the air control lever the width of the tab by 1/4" depth to allow it to swing closed more would be bad? It's just allowing the lever to close more.

Gently bending the tab is totally reversible. Cutting the metal may weaken it and is harder to properly reverse. Regardless, make sure that the air control still keeps a little air coming in and doesn't close off the air intake completely.