Found a potential new truck... thoughts?

[basod]

Found this 96 chevy K2500 on C-list for $3500. Body/drivetrain has 170k, engine swapped out has 42k.
The guy just had the shift solenoids replaced and a throttle position sensor.
(broken link removed to http://gadsden.craigslist.org/cto/2812851003.html)
Seems like a good buy to me.
There's nothing wrong with my old 74 chevy, except there's no heat, no driver's window, LF axle shaft has some slop so I pulled the front driveshaft out it(prevent further detonation if it snaps and locks up). It's just a truck with a strong motor and tranny that pulls solid but leaks like a sieve. Oh and its a short bed.
What do you think? I could up the wood hauling volume and have a "newer" to me truck.

 

[Pallet Pete]

Ask for the receipts for proof on the engine a lot of trucks I have looked at say new engine then I pop the hood knock knock slap slap oilly mess lol. Not saying this is the case but cover yourself is all.

Pete

 

[MofoG23]

not bad....looks like it has the diesel front bumper on it though...if I remember right.

 

[MasterMech]

If it was orginally a 6.5L Diesel truck then the VIN Tag will have an "F" for the 8th digit. If it was a Vortech 5.7L then it will be an "R". Rare, but possible on a K2500 is the Vortech 7.4L, "J".

Definitely check out that engine swap. Does it look OEM or did someone throw in whatever they had laying in the garage? It is pretty common to replace the 6.5L Diesels with a "350" (due to repair costs on the 6.5L) but the Chevy 350 comes in many, many, varieties and flavors. If it has a round air cleaner on top of the engine then it's most likey a TBI engine from a '88-95 truck or worse yet, a carbureted engine. MPG will be dismal with either and power will not be the greatest either with the TBI. They were reliable engines but the Vortech version that followed from '96+ is much better. If there is a carb on it then who knows what your getting. Could be a great combination or a fuel toilet. Buyer beware. If it says "Vortech 5700" on the intake tubing then that's what Chevy orginally put in these trucks for '96.

Check out the front ends on these trucks with that many miles. Balljoints, tie-rod ends, hub bearings are all known wearpoints. The truck should drive almost "car-like" and free of any slop or clunks/noises from the front end. Engaging the 4x4 can be a little noisy initially but it should run quiet once it locks in. It is normal for the rear barkes on these to "moan" a bit when applied at slow speeds, especially in reverse. No worries there. These are great trucks that run and drive ahead of their time considering their Ford and Dodge counterparts.

 

[kettensäge]

Changing shift soloniods and a TPS sounds like there might have been drivability problems. Be sure they were correctly resolved.

These are great trucks that run and drive ahead of their time considering their Ford and Dodge counterparts.

This is up for debate, my '94 Dodge is holding up much better than my buddy's 95 K1500. He had to replace his 5.7 at around 49K. The dealer replacement engine needed head gaskets last year at 125K. He does maintenance by the book and drives it like a grandmother. Most he ever hauled with it was a little furniture.
It doesn't matter what name is on the fender, some will run forever some will be nothing but problems.

 

[ironpony]

personally I stay away from these types of listings
was it done correctly to start with
what year engine
when you go to get parts nothing matches
its hard enough to keep some of the old stuff running
without having two strikes against you to start

 

[basod]

Thanks for the input guys.
I had a 95 C2500 4x4 that I plowed with in ME, then had a 98 1500 Z71. So I'm well aware of the ride difference in the 2 trucks.
The guy said it has a later model 5.7, which he had installed when he bought the truck. It's a used engine which he says has 42K, probably out of a wrecked truck.
He had the tranny work done at the dealership, so i'm assuming he's not shade tree and didn't do the engine swap himself.
I'll check the vin # for discrepencies. I'm not that worried about it being a gas guzzler as I'm getting 10mpg at best out of Ol' Blue.
I've had my eyes peeled for a newer truck, most around here are rust free Southern specimens with 200k+ even 2wd 1500's people are asking 5000-8500 for. - Pipe dream I know
I figured with the K series it won't have any power accesories which is just a bunch of other crap to go wrong on a 16yo truck.
Taking a ride up there this afternoon to test it out will update if all goes well.

 

[MofoG23]

Good luck and keep us posted!

 

[basswidow]

Your current truck sounds like you need a replacement! Hope you find a good one!

 

[CK-1]

Engine swaps are tricky. Bent vaccum lines and other damages can result when dropping a engine. I would hookup a scantool and make sure you got a green light or take it to autozone..etc if you don't have one. Sure you don't want to use some of the $3500 to fix your 76?. Fix the major problems first to get it running decent. Then fix here and there until you are 100% done.

 

[basod]

CK-1
My 74 is a rust bucket. There's no inspection in AL so its still roadworthy.
I'd really need a donor cab/front clip as the bed/frame are solid its just one of those things, i'm not interested in restoring a a truck I paid 1200 for and have abused for 5 years.
Believe me its a solid running truck, I trust anywhere I go, but max speed is pretty much 55.
The new truck may not work out cause I called the guy and he's thinking about trading to someone for an 02 SS camaro of aproximate equal value.
Thats what I'd want a high mileage flogged out LT-1 sportscar for a 4x4 fullsize which around here will easily fetch 2-3K if running in fair shape.

 

[mking7]

Engine swaps are tricky. Bent vaccum lines and other damages can result when dropping a engine. I would hookup a scantool and make sure you got a green light or take it to autozone..etc if you don't have one. Sure you don't want to use some of the $3500 to fix your 76?. Fix the major problems first to get it running decent. Then fix here and there until you are 100% done.

And a diesel to gas engine swap is even trickier.....Perhaps he just got a front bumper off a diesel but as the poster above stated, that's the bumper off a diesel of that era.....

 

[MasterMech]

CK-1
My 74 is a rust bucket. There's no inspection in AL so its still roadworthy.
I'd really need a donor cab/front clip as the bed/frame are solid its just one of those things, i'm not interested in restoring a a truck I paid 1200 for and have abused for 5 years.
Believe me its a solid running truck, I trust anywhere I go, but max speed is pretty much 55.
The new truck may not work out cause I called the guy and he's thinking about trading to someone for an 02 SS camaro of aproximate equal value.
Thats what I'd want a high mileage flogged out LT-1 sportscar for a 4x4 fullsize which around here will easily fetch 2-3K if running in fair shape.

'02 SS was the LS1 not the LT1 no? Very different animal. :cheese:

 

[basod]

CK-1
My 74 is a rust bucket. There's no inspection in AL so its still roadworthy.
I'd really need a donor cab/front clip as the bed/frame are solid its just one of those things, i'm not interested in restoring a a truck I paid 1200 for and have abused for 5 years.
Believe me its a solid running truck, I trust anywhere I go, but max speed is pretty much 55.
The new truck may not work out cause I called the guy and he's thinking about trading to someone for an 02 SS camaro of aproximate equal value.
Thats what I'd want a high mileage flogged out LT-1 sportscar for a 4x4 fullsize which around here will easily fetch 2-3K if running in fair shape.

'02 SS was the LS1 not the LT1 no? Very different animal. :cheese:

Regardless LS1 or LT1 I'd imagine its a high mileage sportscar no matter how many "highway miles" it has seen a fair amount of 0-70/80 accelerations.
Believe me you don't own a 300+hp vehicle and never get on it.
My 01 STS gets its monthly WOT's (30-75 in 2nd) to free the rings up and keep the oil level from dropping between changes.