Do you close it to a certain point and leave it? Some of you know I use a wood furnace with a barometric damper. I checked our flue and chimney after more than a month of burning and a couple dozen plus cold start fires due to the shoulder season. Of course there was some glaze after the barometric damper because of 60 degree air entering the flue. Where the snout enters the chimney there was a fine layer of soot so nothing to worry there, but some glazing towards the top of the chimney at 30 some feet. Just a paint thin layer, but its there.
Where I am having thoughts is the normal flue temps for our furnace with it closed down and burning cleanly we are seeing around 175-200 on the surface of the flue, which is fine. The problem is the baro allows for that 60 degree air to enter and after that I am seeing temps in the low 100's. With our chimney being 32' tall even though its insulated the gasses cool too much at the top.
I have more draft than I know what to do with and the company that makes the furnace tells me key dampers are for old wood burners and not for epa stoves or furnaces. They want a baro used, but I need as much heat in that flue as possible. What I have thought is if I set the damper during a hot fire with a manometer, then the draft speeds shouldn't go over that once the fire dies down some. I have been experimenting with a key damper and closed the baro, but I want some feedback on those who use a key damper. My wife doesn't want to do more than needed with the furnace. So if I can set the key and leave it I would be happy. Can it be done that way?
Where I am having thoughts is the normal flue temps for our furnace with it closed down and burning cleanly we are seeing around 175-200 on the surface of the flue, which is fine. The problem is the baro allows for that 60 degree air to enter and after that I am seeing temps in the low 100's. With our chimney being 32' tall even though its insulated the gasses cool too much at the top.
I have more draft than I know what to do with and the company that makes the furnace tells me key dampers are for old wood burners and not for epa stoves or furnaces. They want a baro used, but I need as much heat in that flue as possible. What I have thought is if I set the damper during a hot fire with a manometer, then the draft speeds shouldn't go over that once the fire dies down some. I have been experimenting with a key damper and closed the baro, but I want some feedback on those who use a key damper. My wife doesn't want to do more than needed with the furnace. So if I can set the key and leave it I would be happy. Can it be done that way?