BeGreen said:
I've been talking with a rep at Condar. They'd also like to know how many folks are using their digital probes, especially the catalyst model and how they like them. So if you are using a probe thermometer, PM with comments
I've sent you this same message as a P/M, thought I'd also share it with everyone else.
I am NOT using one of their probe type thermometers, although I'm definitely in the market for something along that line... I think there is a big gaping hole in the market that they could easily fill, but which their current product doesn't even vaguely approach. PLEASE pass this on to them, as I'd love to buy a good product, and I think there would be lots of wood burners that would as well.
I don't like or trust the round bi-metal thermometers. Aside from concerns about their accuracy, our setup makes using one awkward at best. Look at other scenarios where you might monitor the temperature, like your cooking oven or even outside. How many of those situations would you even CONSIDER using a little bimetal coil with an exposed pointer, or would you look at it and say "what a cheap piece of $#!^" or words to that effect?
I have been looking for a digital solution, but haven't found one I really like. I have a definite picture in my head of what I'd like to see, and feel certain that it could be made to sell fairly inexpensively, and at a good profit for them. I am amazed at the lack of a product at present.
Thus far, what I've found has been either the Condar 9-86 or 9-88 models that are really poor designs from what I've seen, and will discuss further on, "hand held" scientific meters that are pretty close but not quite what I had in mind, or ultra-expen$ive "Lab-grade" consoles that are significant overkill.
What's wrong with the Condar 9-86? lots of stuff...
1. Small LED display - hard to read from a distance, eats batteries
2. Display counts in *50 increments - can you say "blunt instrument"?
3. Per discussion on this thread, Automatically shuts off every 30 minutes
4. No mention of alarm for excessive temps.
5. Doesn't show temps below 450*
My "mental model" would resemble one of those electronic digital meat thermometers that you can find almost anywhere these days. Indeed if they only went to the right temperature range, I'd use one of those as close to what I'm after! Note that the meat thermometers can be had for $10-20 with no problem, I've seen them as low as $5.00
So start with a small console 2-3" on a side, maybe 1/2 an inch thick. Put a provision on the back to make it easy to hang on the wall near the stove - NOT on the stove itself or the pipe, so no need to be unusually heat or fire-proof. Design it to use an industry standard "Type K" thermocouple probe with maybe a 3' cord. Multiple input support would be nice, but not essential (no more than 2-4 probes).
Put a LARGE
LCD display on it, at least 1/2" tall digits would be nice, 3/4" or 1" would be better. The display should be able to switch between *F and *C. (possibly with the switch on the back, or a special button sequence, it doesn't need to be easily changed since most users would just set it to their preferred mode and leave it) The display range should be from somewheres near room temp (no more than 100*F) to around 2,000*F. The counting increment should be no less than 10*, and it shouldn't be hard to do a 1*F increment, though that fine a resolution isn't needed. A backlight would be good. The idea is to be able to read the display easily from anywhere in the room.
The unit should ALWAYS BE ON, unless switched off by the user, no automatic shutoff!
Power could be battery if battery life is long enough (at least 2-3 months of 24/7 use) but AC with battery backup is probably better. (Note that my meat thermometers do this easily, so does my freezer monitor)
Add an alarm for high temperatures, user adjustable as to the trigger point. If battery powered, a low battery should also give an audio alert.
A nice to have, but not essential feature, would be an output that would allow remote monitoring or data recording, etc. - could be Ethernet, RS-232, USB or any other appropriate industry standard.
I hope this is the kind of input you find useful, I think I'm going to post it to the main thread as well...
Gooserider