..and if the ceramic flue tile were also insulated with vermiculite? The reason I ask is because there is one manufacturer of stoves that is making the claim that a metal pipe would be better. The reasoning here is that the ceramic flue retains heat, gets too warm, and speeds up the draft as the fire reaches peak thus burning fuel up faster. As I am rebuilding my entire chimney, it would be good to get some more info on the subject.I would think that an insulated stainless steel flue would have the advantage because the flue gases will remain hotter, thus improving draft. Also, the hotter flue gases will be less likely to condense on the liner walls as creosote. Major creosote accumulation will reduce draft.
My house is a log home with an exposed masonry chimney. I wouldn't be caught dead running a class A pipe up its side as it would be hideous.If you are rebuilding, then why compare to liner material? I would be using class A pipe not a liner for a number of reasons besides just draft.
My house is a log home with an exposed masonry chimney. I wouldn't be caught dead running a class A pipe up its side as it would be hideous.
No way! If they are able to dodge a flue fire, moisture gets em. Moisture causes the Clay to spawl, it also degrades the joints between the clay tiles. SS is the only way to go.Plus I don't see a tile flue outlasting a stainless flue.....am I wrong?
My house is a log home with an exposed masonry chimney. I wouldn't be caught dead running a class A pipe up its side as it would be hideous.
I hear you. Actually, if at all possible it would be better to go straight up through the roof. It will cost less, work better and look better. If it has to be exterior then you could surround the class A with a chase with a stone or brick veneer on the outside. This is a fairly common treatment.
Can you start from the beginning and explain what you are doing? What will be connected to the chimney? Are you trying to reuse the existing chimney or start from scratch?
I added the picture above. My stove cannot be placed directly below the thimble as the oil furnace is in the way hence the offset and the extra elbow.Why the 90's? I see a 90 at the wall, a Tee, but after that no 90's are really possible. What's up?
Have you looked into my suggestion of a 8" SS rigid liner at all?
You could just use a poured in insulation and skip the wrap. Just make sure it's blocked off really well at the bottom, or it will just run out.Will wrap it with insulation and for added measue, will throw loose vermiculite around the void.
We use essential cookies to make this site work, and optional cookies to enhance your experience.