Fiskars Pro Splitter Disappoints

[pulldownclaw]

From all the reading on here, I thought it was going to split the wood for me! %-P

It is a nice tool, and the short handle doesn't really bother me. I do find myself going back to the 8# maul to pop open large rounds, but the Fiskars will be pleasure to swing on the smaller stuff.

 

[Flatbedford]

For the big stuff you could work around the edges very nicely with the Fiskars. There are some situations where you will still need the brute force of the good ol' 8#. I do 95% of my splitting with the Fiskars, but keep the Craftsman 8# handy for trouble makers. I also find that I can swing the lighter Fiskars a lot longer with less fatigue.

 

[Jeff S]

You might be happier with Fiskars Pro which is 4 1/4 lbs compared to the Fiskers Super that is only 2 1/4 lbs,there is a world a difference in permormance between the two.

 

[quads]

Have the best of both worlds and get a 6# maul. 8# is too heavy, at least for me, and I'm a confessed hand-split-addict. Been swinging a maul my whole life, but just can't quite use an 8# efficiently and can't quite swing it fast enough to get a good CRACK when it hits. Anything lighter than 6#, or any type of ax, and I find myself getting great speed and a good CRACK when it hits, but not enough "follow through", many times getting it stuck in the round and have to wiggle wiggle wiggle the handle. With that in mind, Dad always used a double bit ax for splitting, he hated mauls, but for the life of me I can't figure out how he did it!

 

[pulldownclaw]

EDIT: Apologies to all, I got the Pro Splitter, 4.5# model. Just got the names screwed up..... :red:

 

[quads]

the critical factor is the SPEED of the head when it sttrikes the wood & not the weight. faster=better

Yup, I will agree with at least half of that statement. The faster that you can swing a heavier weight = the easier the wood will split.

 

[wendell]

the critical factor is the SPEED of the head when it sttrikes the wood & not the weight. faster=better

So, Mass doesn't exist in your world?

f=ma

 

[Bigg_Redd]

From all the reading on here, I thought it was going to split the wood for me! %-P

It is a nice tool, and the short handle doesn't really bother me. I do find myself going back to the 8# maul to pop open large rounds, but the Fiskars will be pleasure to swing on the smaller stuff.

Are you talking about the 2.25lb Pro Splitting Ax? Large Fir and Hemlock ans maple rounds are 0-fer vs me and my Fiskars pro splitting ax. I'm never going back to a maul.

 

[Bigg_Redd]

Have the best of both worlds and get a 6# maul. 8# is too heavy, at least for me, and I'm a confessed hand-split-addict. Been swinging a maul my whole life, but just can't quite use an 8# efficiently and can't quite swing it fast enough to get a good CRACK when it hits. Anything lighter than 6#, or any type of ax, and I find myself getting great speed and a good CRACK when it hits, but not enough "follow through", many times getting it stuck in the round and have to wiggle wiggle wiggle the handle. With that in mind, Dad always used a double bit ax for splitting, he hated mauls, but for the life of me I can't figure out how he did it!

You clearly have not tried a Fiskars.

 

[quads]

Have the best of both worlds and get a 6# maul. 8# is too heavy, at least for me, and I'm a confessed hand-split-addict. Been swinging a maul my whole life, but just can't quite use an 8# efficiently and can't quite swing it fast enough to get a good CRACK when it hits. Anything lighter than 6#, or any type of ax, and I find myself getting great speed and a good CRACK when it hits, but not enough "follow through", many times getting it stuck in the round and have to wiggle wiggle wiggle the handle. With that in mind, Dad always used a double bit ax for splitting, he hated mauls, but for the life of me I can't figure out how he did it!

You clearly have not tried a Fiskars.

Only a pair of their hedge shears and a fillet knife.

 

[gerry100]

The equation is E=M x v(SQUARED).

Where "E" is the impact energy imparted to the wood.

M is the Mass of the maul head.

V is the velocity of the head at impact.

As you can see. going from a 6lb to an 8 lb increses the impact by 33%.

BUT... if it messes up your stroke to slow down the speed more than 15% you lose.

In my bombastic opinion- the Fiskars are too light and since our impact velocities are limited by other factors, one does not pick up enough speed to offset the loss in mass. The cutting edge shape is cute and may offer advantages but I think this is a device for gadgeteers.

As in golf - "you can't buy a swing"

 

[TreePapa]

...Dad always used a double bit ax for splitting, he hated mauls, but for the life of me I can't figure out how he did it!

Those things scare the bleep outa me. I've had axes and mauls bounce back when i didn't hit the wood square. Never hit me, but ... if a double bit bounces back, that would be scary. Plus, I can only use one sharp side at a time - why do I need two?

Peace,
- Sequoia

 

[mayhem]

^^ I have a double headed axe that i use for splitting and its terrific. Its about 2.5lb, has a significantly taller blade than a conventional axe and is razor sharp. It blasts pretty easily through pretty mcuh anything I swing it at up to about 8-10", depending on knots and if you hit a punky spot of course.

I've never once in decades had a mis-strike bounce back on me. If anythign the regular blade is the dangeous part since thats the part that might bounce off the round and drop on your toe or your shin. When you say bounce back, you mean literally you've had an axe or maul bounce off a round and you're actualyl at risk of being hit by the dull side?

 

[quads]

...Dad always used a double bit ax for splitting, he hated mauls, but for the life of me I can't figure out how he did it!

Those things scare the bleep outa me. I've had axes and mauls bounce back when i didn't hit the wood square. Never hit me, but ... if a double bit bounces back, that would be scary. Plus, I can only use one sharp side at a time - why do I need two?

Peace,
- Sequoia

I'm not too crazy about double bit axes either, but that's all Dad ever used. He used it for everything and carried it around in the back of his truck. I still have it, hanging in the garage, but I never use it. All I ever use is my 6# maul for competition splitting (hee hee) and my single bit ax for kindling.

 

[CTburning]

I've done almost all my splitting with a craftsman single axe. I have their maul and haven't had much luck with it. I bought the friskars super splitter?(big one) and I like it. I don't think it is the best tool in every situation. I still find the single axe to be better in situations that I can't slice all the way through the wood. I split mostly red oak and mine is not like the stuff I have been reading about. It is twisted, full of knots and much much harder to split than the maple, birch and other hardwoods I have come across. I bounced the maul of the large rounds a couple of times before I gave up. Back to my trusted single craftman axe. I swing as hard as I can and bury the axe into the center of the oak round. Sometimes it splits, usually it doesn't. I use the sledge to pound the head in as far as I can, then wedges and the backside of the maul. I usually destroy the axe at least once a season and know when it is fall because it is time to exchange it for a new one (gotta love sears!). When the 36" rounds are in quarters I'll take out the Friskars and slice them to size. Once again the Friskars is a specialty axe/splitter and if used correctly will save you a lot of work. Be forewarned, the head is super sharp and if you miss, will cut into your leg,foot or whatever like nothing you have ever seen. It is not forgiving!

 

[LLigetfa]

I'm not too crazy about double bit axes either...

I would never use one. The main reason I hate mauls is cuz of their straight handles and a double bit axe has a straight handle too. Also, if I get my axe stuck in a round that is not too large, I will flip the round over and drop it onto the axe poll.

 

[gerry100]

Had my 8 lb maul bounce straight back and hit me in the forehead with the blunt side.

Broke the damn wooden handle.

Now I use fiberglass ;-)

 

[mayhem]

I'm having a real hard time picturing how somethign like that can happen. Considering how much force you're imparting, the mass of the head and your hands on it, how is it even possible to get hit in the face from a bounceback? It just doesn't seem possible for the wood to be that elastic and bounce it that ahrd...maybe its just because nothing liek that has never happened to me.

 

[quads]

I bounced the maul of the large rounds a couple of times before I gave up.

That is exactly the same problem I have with an 8# maul. I just can't swing it fast enough.

I swing as hard as I can and bury the axe into the center of the oak round. Sometimes it splits, usually it doesn't.

This is also the same problem I have when splitting with anything lighter then my 6# maul. Then I grab the handle and wiggle wiggle wiggle.

Once again the Friskars is a specialty axe/splitter and if used correctly will save you a lot of work. Be forewarned, the head is super sharp and if you miss, will cut into your leg,foot or whatever like nothing you have ever seen. It is not forgiving!

I have never used a Fiskars ax, as far as I know. Is the handle quite short on it? If the handle is long enough, usually you don't have to worry about it coming around at the end of the swing and hitting you in the leg. It will hit the ground first, or at least my full size single bit ax does as does my maul. Try a longer handle maybe? That does sound very dangerous, if it swings back towards you!

 

[quads]

Ok, now I see how the Fiskars could hit you in the leg. I just went to their website and the longest handle is 28 inches. http://www.fiskars.com/webapp/wcs/s...1&langId;=-1&catalogId=10101&categoryId=10277
I measured my ax and my maul and both are 34 inches. That half a foot could be a problem. Be careful!

 

[Flatbedford]

It is a little short. I bend my knees at the moment of impact to make up for the shorter handle. My chiropractor, a wood burner and hand splitter himself, says that bending the knees on impact is better for your back anyway. It relieves some of the stress.
With the lighter Fiskars tool, going for the center of a larger round is not the best way to go. Work in thirds or even quarters rather than halves. The lighter weight and higher speed and control lets you split with a little more finesse than a 6 or 8 pounder. What I also like about the Fiskars is that the splits don't fly as far away as with the heavier maul. This makes resplitting and, in my situation, loading the wheelbarrow with the splits that much quicker.

 

[quads]

Had my 8 lb maul bounce straight back and hit me in the forehead with the blunt side.

Broke the damn wooden handle.

Now I use fiberglass ;-)

Oh wow! I also have trouble with an 8# maul just bouncing and not splitting, but nothing that severe! Keep that thing away from your face! You're not supposed to hold the handle with your teeth. Do you have little short arms? ;-)

 

[TreePapa]

Had my 8 lb maul bounce straight back and hit me in the forehead with the blunt side.

Broke the damn wooden handle.

Are you that hard-headed? What did it do to you "damn head"?

Peace,
- Sequoia

 

[gerry100]

Not much - except I understand my wife better.

 

[Dune]

I love how effective my little fiskars splitting axe is, but I hate the short handle and want a heavier model. Unfortunately that is unavailable, so bought a 36" sledge handle and I am going to grind a 6# maul into the fiskars shape, including the hollow grind edge. I am shooting for between 4 and 5 pounds finnish weight. I am pretty confident that it will work well especialy with the 36" handle.