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The whole thing could be raised yes you will want a filler panel under it as well. And you are planning on a full insulated 8" liner right?Question: i am installing a Fisher woodstove insert and noticed it only has height adjustments on the back. Are these inserts designed to be installed so the bottom of woodstove is lying flat on the floor? Or is it good/ok to lift it up a little? I know there is cold air intake on the bottom front of the stove that wraps around to a hot air radiation on the top. Appreciate it.
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I have to do a 6in insulated liner. The opening where the flue was coming out of the fireplace is 7in...filler panel under it? I have the 3 panels to go on sides and topThe whole thing could be raised yes you will want a filler panel under it as well. And you are planning on a full insulated 8" liner right?
Your going to have to remove brick for a 6" liner as well. You don't need 316. Buy a thicker liner in the cheaper 304 alloy it will hold up much better. How tall is the chimney?Good information, thank you...If I go with a 8 I have to bust out brick. I am gonna do a 6in insulated 316Ti liner. Use a reducer from 8 to 6 coming off the stove
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Why would I have to remove brick for a 6in liner? I could always remove the insulated layer where it comes through the flue if needed. It's around 15ft from stove. Little shorter. Already ordered liner today. Suppose to be here on Friday. Gonna have to make it work.Your going to have to remove brick for a 6" liner as well. You don't need 316. Buy a thicker liner in the cheaper 304 alloy it will hold up much better. How tall is the chimney?
Yes, it could be. I'm gonna give it a go. If I have to extend the top2-3 feet for a good pull, I willShort run on a reduced liner could be problematic for draft.
Less than 15' on a 2" reduced liner? Good luck with that. And your going to have to remove atleast the damper frame and probably brick to get the liner to line up without kinking it especially since it's light wall. Larger od and easier to kink or tear on the old damper frame. I typically install 50 to 70 liners a year btw.Why would I have to remove brick for a 6in liner? I could always remove the insulated layer where it comes through the flue if needed. It's around 15ft from stove. Little shorter. Already ordered liner today. Suppose to be here on Friday. Gonna have to make it work.
Should I have went with a 8in non-insulated liner and removed some brick?Less than 15' on a 2" reduced liner? Good luck with that. And your going to have to remove atleast the damper frame and probably brick to get the liner to line up without kinking it especially since it's light wall. Larger od and easier to kink or tear on the old damper frame. I typically install 50 to 70 liners a year btw.
No 8" insulated. 7" is the minimum I use on stoves like that and absolutely always insulated.Should I have went with a 8in non-insulated liner and removed some brick?
How thick is the insulation and metal beyond the 8in?No 8" insulated. 7" is the minimum I use on stoves like that and absolutely always insulated.
The insulation is 1/2" which makes for a 9" diameter pipe+insulation. What is the clay tile liner size in the chimney?How thick is the insulation and metal beyond the 8in?
If using light wall liner it adds about 3/8" to the od of the liner. Then 1/2" insulation so another inch minimum. But in reality it's at least an inch and an eighth if not a quarter. For light wall I usually figure add 1.5" heavywall or midweight 1.25"How thick is the insulation and metal beyond the 8in?
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