First Encounter of Embedded Metal vs Chain Saw

[Kenster]

I was cutting into a 27 (or so) inch diameter Water Oak trunk this morning. Took one 20 inch round off the end. Was about 80% through the second cut when something didn't feel quite right. The saw (MS390) did not slow down but it seemed like it was not cutting very well. I looked down and saw that the sawdust and chip pile was now black. There is not the slightest bit of rot anywhere in this tree so I know it wasn't rotted heart wood. Smoke was starting to come out of the cut and then I noticed a spark or two at which point I removed the saw.

I couldn't figure out what was happening until I poked my fingers through the black pile of dust and chips. There a found a three or four inch long skinny piece of metal, like a headless ten penny nail. I figured it must have been driven into the wood exactly where I was making my cut. I'm guessing I drove the whole thing out. In the process though, I think I fried my chain. When I tried to cut again it would not throw even a tiny bit of dust. I'm hoping the local Stihl dealer can salvage it on their sharpening machine but I believe it is beyond what I can do with hand sharpening.

I have a brand new spare chain, which I can put on but I am hesitant to do so because I don't know for sure if I got all of that nail out and I hate to fry another chain. So, I'm going to try bust it the rest of the way open with four wedges and my ten pound sledge.
Basically, all that is left is three inch, or so, hinge along what had been the side of the log that was laying on the ground.

Think that will work? Other suggestions?

I could go at the remaining part of the log from the opposite side from where I encountered the nail and cut most of the way through before trying to finish it off with the wedge and sledge method.

 

[CJ-SR4ever]

A similar thing happened to me last year. I ended up just buying a new chain. Got a quote from the local shop and was more expensive than a new chain. The wedge / sledgehammer idea may work but will take a little while. If you think you cut all the way through the metal object, you can pick up where you left off on your existing cut.

 

[CTYank]

Metal objects are unfortunately common in trees grown near humans (yards/fencelines/etc.)

Fortunately, your chain did not break and come at you.

With oaks, I've found that a ferrous metal object will "telegraph" its presence along the trunk. Say it's at x feet from the end of a log. A cut made at some distance less than and beyond x feet from the end will show a blue stain tipping to which side and how deep in the object is. You can play it from there.

 

[Kenster]

CT, interesting that you should mention the blue stain. I went back this afternoon, put on the new chain and continued the cut from opposite where I encountered the nail. Zipped right through with no problems.

<<<side note It's been a year since I put on a new chain. Zing! Right through that 27 inch thick oak like a hot knife on butter! I've been hand sharpening since I got my MS390 a little over a year ago. I think I do a pretty good job and I can always tell the difference after I touch up the chain. But I guess I need to take the chain into the Stihl shop occasionally for a tune up to make it like new again. <<<end of side Note>

So, when I stood that round up on end to split it I noticed a blue smudge about three inches diameter a few inches in from the bark. I don't think I would have noticed any staining on the bark itself. But, when I split that round, nearly the entire core of the round had a blue stain. I considered that the little smudge might have come from the nail. Hard to believe that the core of that big log was stained by a nail but I don't know how else to explain it.

 

[CTYank]

So, when I stood that round up on end to split it I noticed a blue smudge about three inches diameter a few inches in from the bark. I don't think I would have noticed any staining on the bark itself. But, when I split that round, nearly the entire core of the round had a blue stain. I considered that the little smudge might have come from the nail. Hard to believe that the core of that big log was stained by a nail but I don't know how else to explain it.

There you go! Knowing that, in the future with such oaks, you might (and I would):

drop the tree, mark out cut locations for first 10-15 feet, cut through at the 15' mark, and look for the blue stain. If stain found:

Given the intensity of the stain, buck rounds in succession towards the butt, taking care approaching indicated location of the iron.

On suspecting approach to iron, start bucking only part-way, splitting off part of round as possible. Metal detector would help here.

My suspicion is that the tannin in the oak reacts with the iron. As in gun "bluing." And the stain runs purely lengthwise in the wood.

May your saws do no more duty as metal-detectors.

 

[Intheswamp]

I don't know if it'd be worth it or not but on one of those many, many rainy days ya'll have been having (kinda like us) you could get aggressive with a file and get that beat-up chain back in some semblance of 'sharp'. Keep it stuck back until you "see the blue" and then put it on for hazardous duty cutting. Of course this is if you can rehabilitate it enough to cut half decently.

Like I said...I'm not sure it'd be worth it, but a thought....

Ed

PS... A dremel and some diamond stones might be handy for the rehab.

 

[bpirger]

I have a few chains I label as "dirt chains"....knowing that at times I want to cut out a stump, roots, whatever....very abusive. Sounds like you have a great dirt chain now.....saves you from buggering up another when the time comes!

 

[Kenster]

I have a few chains I label as "dirt chains"....knowing that at times I want to cut out a stump, roots, whatever....very abusive. Sounds like you have a great dirt chain now.....saves you from buggering up another when the time comes!

That sounds like a good plan. I think I'll just let the Stihl shop take a shot at it. For $5 I really can't lose.
Then I'll keep it in reserve for the dirty jobs.

 

[Thistle]

I have a few chains I label as "dirt chains"....knowing that at times I want to cut out a stump, roots, whatever....very abusive. Sounds like you have a great dirt chain now.....saves you from buggering up another when the time comes!

Yup me too.Keep a couple hanging on wall of shed for that same thing.Sure beats ruining a new $20 or $30 chain or freshly sharpened one when salvaging stuff like some old yardbird.

 

[lukem]

I've only had this happen once. The strange part was the nail would have been about 12' off the ground and in the middle of the woods. Only thing I can figure is it was a deer stand once upon a time. Never know what you are going to run into out there.

 

[fireview2788]

I just got my new chain last night to replace the one I torched a few weeks ago on the same thing. I nailed this sucker dead on like I was driving it with a hammer. I will sharpen the other one for a spare.


fv

 

[Kenster]

CTYank was spot on about the telltale blue stain in the heartwood caused by metal in the tree. Below is a pic of the splits showing the blue stained core below where the nail was encountered. No satin occurs above the cut where the nail was hit.

 

[ecocavalier02]

I see this a lot with tree service trees.

 

[amateur cutter]

Yep, metal wins over the chain every time. I've hit more crap in trees than I care to remember. I carry a Granberg 12V grinder with me when cutting, & can usually resharpen in pretty short order. The saw racers love worn chains, claim they cut faster due to better chip clearance, & I agree. I'll sharpen mine right to the line before I toss em. Just make sure to adjust your rakers, & that chain will cut fine again. A C

 

[Kenster]

I took it to my neighborhood Stihl store. First time I've had a chain sharpened. Hoping they do a good job for me.

 

[fishingpol]

Here is a piece of oak with a nail stuck in it. I saw it grabbed it for a pic before it went into the stack.