So here's my install. Did some room renovations this summer. Thinking of doing a light sponging technique to get a bit of black in the red wall above the mantel.
I think I may be overdrafting some. Like Jack in another thread, I get peek stove top temps sometimes in the 400s, mostly in the low 500s, but rarely do I hit 600s unless I use lots of pine. After 2-3 hours of climbing it comes down for about 1-2 hours. Then it will stay at 250-300 for 5-6 hours.
Burned 2 seasons with a Hearthstone Homestead. This is my first real season with the Fireview (also burned a bit in March-April last season). I really like the stove. Been trying different techniques that other Fireview owners suggested for Jack. Damped down to .25 or .5 or 1. I seem to get the most heat at .75-1 with CAT engaged, meaning that the stove front and stove top both read similar temps. Damping down to .25 or .5 lengthens the burn, and bumps stove top a bit, but cuts stove front temp by 40%. No surprise. Can't have both long burns and massive amounts of heat. However, I think I could do better.
I want to try to get the long overnight burns peaking and staying in the 600s like Dennis and Todd talk about. I'm on vacation this week, so I want to closely monitor one day to see if it is my wood or if I need a damper.
Wood: The wood I'm using now was seasoned in a holz stack for 1.5 years. It is really a mixture of most of the hard and softwoods you'd find in a New England forest. Probably should have covered it more than I did. Seems that when moisture seeps into the center it breeds mold and other fungi. Haven't tested with moisture meter, but it is obvious a fair amount of the wood is not ideal. Some pieces are perfect. I bought some kiln dried hardwood at a quickie mart (and had to shower to not feel dirty) and plan on burning that after I get a good bed of coals at ~250 degrees stove top.
Overdraft: My flue goes straight back (plumb) about 3 ft, then bends 90 degrees straight up for 28-30 feet. Only one gentle 30 degree twist in the straight up flue pipe. If the kiln dried wood (which I will test with a moisture meter) doesn't do it, I may have to install a damper in the straight back plumb part of the pipe.
Any other thoughts are welcome. Thanks.
I think I may be overdrafting some. Like Jack in another thread, I get peek stove top temps sometimes in the 400s, mostly in the low 500s, but rarely do I hit 600s unless I use lots of pine. After 2-3 hours of climbing it comes down for about 1-2 hours. Then it will stay at 250-300 for 5-6 hours.
Burned 2 seasons with a Hearthstone Homestead. This is my first real season with the Fireview (also burned a bit in March-April last season). I really like the stove. Been trying different techniques that other Fireview owners suggested for Jack. Damped down to .25 or .5 or 1. I seem to get the most heat at .75-1 with CAT engaged, meaning that the stove front and stove top both read similar temps. Damping down to .25 or .5 lengthens the burn, and bumps stove top a bit, but cuts stove front temp by 40%. No surprise. Can't have both long burns and massive amounts of heat. However, I think I could do better.
I want to try to get the long overnight burns peaking and staying in the 600s like Dennis and Todd talk about. I'm on vacation this week, so I want to closely monitor one day to see if it is my wood or if I need a damper.
Wood: The wood I'm using now was seasoned in a holz stack for 1.5 years. It is really a mixture of most of the hard and softwoods you'd find in a New England forest. Probably should have covered it more than I did. Seems that when moisture seeps into the center it breeds mold and other fungi. Haven't tested with moisture meter, but it is obvious a fair amount of the wood is not ideal. Some pieces are perfect. I bought some kiln dried hardwood at a quickie mart (and had to shower to not feel dirty) and plan on burning that after I get a good bed of coals at ~250 degrees stove top.
Overdraft: My flue goes straight back (plumb) about 3 ft, then bends 90 degrees straight up for 28-30 feet. Only one gentle 30 degree twist in the straight up flue pipe. If the kiln dried wood (which I will test with a moisture meter) doesn't do it, I may have to install a damper in the straight back plumb part of the pipe.
Any other thoughts are welcome. Thanks.