Fine Tuning Yukon Super Jack

[mike1234]

I've learned a lot about this stove so far this season, and my major complaint, short burn times, I've been able to fix (7.5 hours or so, but will get up and check it at 3 tonight it being 2 degrees).

My less major complaint I have not fixed - creosote. The good news here is that I just clean the stove pipe monthly, so it's not that horrible of a thing, except I think it's fixable, I just need some help.

I finally bought an insert thermometer for the flue, and watching it tonight, it will go up to 400 or so when the air supply fan is on. When the air supply goes off, the flue temp drops to about 200 (thus the creosote), back up, back down.

Door air supply is opened 2 turns, so should be getting a decent draft. Barometric damper is set right, in fact even if I shut it down most of the way, I still have this issue.

Stove is 600 or so (measured above the door by 2 thermometers).

This may be the biggest clue - I do get smoke coming back out the door air supply at times, especially if I open the air supply fan all the way.

Stove pipe - out from the stove, straight up, double wall up to ceiling, 6' of pipe, triple wall from there 10' more, 4 feet of that outside. No top to plug up, has a rain cover but not a spark arrester. I do have trees close to the house that may be causing some downdraft.

Do I need to just add 4' of pipe to the top? Or?

 

[smokinj]

I've learned a lot about this stove so far this season, and my major complaint, short burn times, I've been able to fix (7.5 hours or so, but will get up and check it at 3 tonight it being 2 degrees).

My less major complaint I have not fixed - creosote. The good news here is that I just clean the stove pipe monthly, so it's not that horrible of a thing, except I think it's fixable, I just need some help.

I finally bought an insert thermometer for the flue, and watching it tonight, it will go up to 400 or so when the air supply fan is on. When the air supply goes off, the flue temp drops to about 200 (thus the creosote), back up, back down.

Door air supply is opened 2 turns, so should be getting a decent draft. Barometric damper is set right, in fact even if I shut it down most of the way, I still have this issue.

Stove is 600 or so (measured above the door by 2 thermometers).

This may be the biggest clue - I do get smoke coming back out the door air supply at times, especially if I open the air supply fan all the way.

Stove pipe - out from the stove, straight up, double wall up to ceiling, 6' of pipe, triple wall from there 10' more, 4 feet of that outside. No top to plug up, has a rain cover but not a spark arrester. I do have trees close to the house that may be causing some downdraft.

Do I need to just add 4' of pipe to the top? Or?

can you post any pic's

 

[TomB]

Mike, give Keith a call at Yukon Eagle. He is the guru on the Yukon Jack furnaces.

 

[mike1234]

Thanks for the replies, I will post some pics today or tomorrow. I have talked to Yukon, and I really think all I need to do is lengthen the stove pipe, maybe 2 or 4 feet. But always pays to get advice from the pros here.

 

[mike1234]

I took pics, but for some reason my slow satellite internet will not let me post them on here, I will post them from the fast connection at work tomorrow.

 

[CrappieKeith]

Did you bring in make up air?
Did the barometric draft regulator get set with a manometer.
Sometimes a flue does need to be added to.
Last....wood needs to be dry. A moisture meter can be a great help here.

 

[mike1234]

Keith,
About time you showed up.
Now a days I am doing great with my furnace, learned lots of things, called Yukon a few times, got the baro set correctly, installed an air supply, I understand the secondary burn air...
I was burning OK (not great) wood, and I was loading it up way too much. I also was not burning it hot enough at least once each day. I almost always hit 900 or 1000 in the stove pipe once a day now, burn regularly at 400 in stovepipe, not much smoke (unless I have cruddy wood), and have 8 hour burn times, unless it's 0 or -5, then I get about 6 or so.
I love my furnace, and I have next years wood all cut, but some of it needs to be split so it can dry faster.

 

[CrappieKeith]

Great to hear Mike....make sure your getting 70-80 degrees across the top of the furnace.
This may require you to adjust the blower pully to achieve the proper speed to satisfy the stat fast enough.
I've got a forum up and running at our site.Gonna be doing videos and pics to add into the tech service area.

Anyway....glad to see your still kickin Mike!

 

[mike1234]

Keith,
Registered, but can't seem to post at your site. If every post has to be approved, which it kind of looks like, it makes the forum less than attractive at least to me. Or maybe I am doing something wrong, but it seems straight forward enough.
The question I was trying to post was: You say with everything set correctly, I should have a 400 stack temp. Is that when the air supply is blowing, or when it is not blowing, and I have some idling time too? Mine is exactly 400 when it is blowing, but will drop below that, down to even 200 when it is idling, so I think I create a little more creosote than I would like. I usually try to hit 900 or even 1000 or so in stove pipe in the morning when I get it going to clean it out. Yes the baro is set and I have outside air supply.

 

[CrappieKeith]

None are approved.
I don't know why your having issues.Sorry

You can run it a bit faster.You can open your heat exchanger too.Remember that when it gets mild out your furnace will idle longer.
Smaller hotter loads should be run to make it burn cleaner.

I load mine to the gills and when it needs a cleaning I do it.I smolder mine too much I know but
No gas burns in my home so the $$$ I used to pay for gas pays me to clean my furnace.
I do run it hot in the morning and evening.