I have a Heatmaster mf5000 installed new 2007. It is one with the control door and panel above the wood loading door (horrible design idea). I have replaced the fan switches, controller and the computer almost yearly (gets too hot) for the past several years. Have replaced the taco pump a couple of times but overall happy with it. I have fired it up this year and have had it running low demand for a couple of weeks. The fan stopped working yesterday. Already swapped out the fan control. Computer working as should (set 190 like I have always). The taco pump is working. I just swapped it as the cartridge blades were broke when I fired it up. Looking for suggestions on steps to go through next. I have not replaced the selonoid. I did replace the fan 4-5 years ago
Fan not working mf5000
- Thread starter RobinP
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brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
I believe so as it gets it’s power from the same outlet as the water pump. Looking for my meter to check
If the solenoid lifts then it's a bad fan or a bad rheostat (up front). The solenoid and fan both get power from the same control up front. The outlets for the pump have continuous power, the fan and solenoid get power from the relay in the Ranco control.
The original 4C446 fans could be oiled. The new 1TDP7 fans have sealed bearings. BTW, don't turn down the fan speed using the rheostat, it can cook the fan motor. If I'm working on an older MF model I bypass the rheostat.
190 is way too hot for an open system. Might explain why you burn up the controls, 190 is really crowding boiling point. They recommend 180 max.
The control on those old units is in a bad location. It's easy to leave the door open and cook the switches, digital readout. Keep the door shut over the control while loading.
1TDP7 is the Dayton motor you need. Very common fan motor, Fasco and other brands have compatible models.
The original 4C446 fans could be oiled. The new 1TDP7 fans have sealed bearings. BTW, don't turn down the fan speed using the rheostat, it can cook the fan motor. If I'm working on an older MF model I bypass the rheostat.
190 is way too hot for an open system. Might explain why you burn up the controls, 190 is really crowding boiling point. They recommend 180 max.
The control on those old units is in a bad location. It's easy to leave the door open and cook the switches, digital readout. Keep the door shut over the control while loading.
1TDP7 is the Dayton motor you need. Very common fan motor, Fasco and other brands have compatible models.
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Moving it should be as easy as making a location that is covered away from the boiler.
Put a pipe in the ground as a stand and add a birdhouse with the front cut out as a shelter ,get an electrician to wire it up.Or purpose build an enclosure for the panel.
I am sure that there is something already built you could adapt.Look at the Mcmaster Carr website
Put a pipe in the ground as a stand and add a birdhouse with the front cut out as a shelter ,get an electrician to wire it up.Or purpose build an enclosure for the panel.
I am sure that there is something already built you could adapt.Look at the Mcmaster Carr website
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