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elkimmeg
Guest
Let me explain: I quit work today because it was too hot. Goose and others asked me to comment on this issue.
Goose, Begreen or any other members if you want to clean up this post and submit it to our wiki system, be my guests This situation will reoccur many more times. It would be easier to supply a link.
Again the post exceeds the character limit so it is split up.
To Gunner no manufactures are mentioned. To BB I did add a little humor can’t always let you have the monopoly. MR Griz How is that permit application going? If you need help just e-mail me
One of the main issues her is removing immediate combustion air creating a vacuum or negative pressure
Stove manufactures have hit a wall they can only do so much to extend burn times and meet EPA particulate
requirements. Part of the problem is to make the stoves more efficient, they reduce draft. No science needed,
reduce the heat leaving up the chimney,, more heat left in the stove to transfer to the living space
When the burning season begins, so will the post wondering why their stoves run poorly. 90% maybe more suffer
from weak draft or negative pressure locations. One solution is to crack an adjacent window this relieves the negative pressure,
plus add needed makeup combustion air
Think for a minute and now add a mechanical means of removing air in the vicinity of that stove. What happens when a weak draft suffers
from reduced pressure and a vacuum forms? That mechanical device stands a good chance of back drafting the stove exhaust into the living space
Even if this does not happen, the draft efficiency is reduced and draft is the engine that makes the stove work. That is why code requires no returns within 10' of the stove
Lets discuss HVAC systems: First of all systems with ceiling returns are the least efficient. A design IF code allowed, I would fail every time .
What is the sense of returning the hottest air. How does one draw down lighter hot air in to the lower comfort zone of the living space.
Let me clue you it can't happen with ceiling returns In order for that system to function efficiently one must remove the heavier cooler bottom layer of air
Once that heavier air is removed it creates space for lighter warmer air to occupy. I can't tell you the number of post where people add supplemental heater,
because they never seem to get warm. So many times the furnace is designed to the correct capacity but the ducts or transmission system is poorly designed and installed
There are a few ways one should consider reducing heating bills Supplemental heat is one
The second way is to improve your existing heating system. All exposed ductwork should be insulated to above R.5.0 and every joint duct mastic sealed.
Up to 35% heat loss in due to transmission. Hot water systems insulate those pipes
The third consideration is adding insulation and draft stopping. You paid to generate the heat might as well enjoy it a bit longer
LET me critique the person who cuts in an additional return vent above his stove. Today’s Hvac systems are balanced. Usually there are dampers installed in every lateral take off
Using a flow-measuring device, the volume is adjusted to even out the flow. This method eliminates the cold room at the end of the run. Each room requires the correct volume to heat it. For instance, a 6" duct is capable of up to 150 cfms. Without boring you with a lot of complicated math, should satisfy a normal 12 /12 room. Add wall to wall glass, naturally a greater heat loss requiring more volume.
What happens to that balanced system when additional outlets are added? Remember supply = returns That ceiling opening just eliminated the balance and reduced the entire system efficiency That does not mean it can't be balanced again, but chances are Joe homeowner does hot have the equipment of knowledge to do it and never even considered the need.
Goose, Begreen or any other members if you want to clean up this post and submit it to our wiki system, be my guests This situation will reoccur many more times. It would be easier to supply a link.
Again the post exceeds the character limit so it is split up.
To Gunner no manufactures are mentioned. To BB I did add a little humor can’t always let you have the monopoly. MR Griz How is that permit application going? If you need help just e-mail me
One of the main issues her is removing immediate combustion air creating a vacuum or negative pressure
Stove manufactures have hit a wall they can only do so much to extend burn times and meet EPA particulate
requirements. Part of the problem is to make the stoves more efficient, they reduce draft. No science needed,
reduce the heat leaving up the chimney,, more heat left in the stove to transfer to the living space
When the burning season begins, so will the post wondering why their stoves run poorly. 90% maybe more suffer
from weak draft or negative pressure locations. One solution is to crack an adjacent window this relieves the negative pressure,
plus add needed makeup combustion air
Think for a minute and now add a mechanical means of removing air in the vicinity of that stove. What happens when a weak draft suffers
from reduced pressure and a vacuum forms? That mechanical device stands a good chance of back drafting the stove exhaust into the living space
Even if this does not happen, the draft efficiency is reduced and draft is the engine that makes the stove work. That is why code requires no returns within 10' of the stove
Lets discuss HVAC systems: First of all systems with ceiling returns are the least efficient. A design IF code allowed, I would fail every time .
What is the sense of returning the hottest air. How does one draw down lighter hot air in to the lower comfort zone of the living space.
Let me clue you it can't happen with ceiling returns In order for that system to function efficiently one must remove the heavier cooler bottom layer of air
Once that heavier air is removed it creates space for lighter warmer air to occupy. I can't tell you the number of post where people add supplemental heater,
because they never seem to get warm. So many times the furnace is designed to the correct capacity but the ducts or transmission system is poorly designed and installed
There are a few ways one should consider reducing heating bills Supplemental heat is one
The second way is to improve your existing heating system. All exposed ductwork should be insulated to above R.5.0 and every joint duct mastic sealed.
Up to 35% heat loss in due to transmission. Hot water systems insulate those pipes
The third consideration is adding insulation and draft stopping. You paid to generate the heat might as well enjoy it a bit longer
LET me critique the person who cuts in an additional return vent above his stove. Today’s Hvac systems are balanced. Usually there are dampers installed in every lateral take off
Using a flow-measuring device, the volume is adjusted to even out the flow. This method eliminates the cold room at the end of the run. Each room requires the correct volume to heat it. For instance, a 6" duct is capable of up to 150 cfms. Without boring you with a lot of complicated math, should satisfy a normal 12 /12 room. Add wall to wall glass, naturally a greater heat loss requiring more volume.
What happens to that balanced system when additional outlets are added? Remember supply = returns That ceiling opening just eliminated the balance and reduced the entire system efficiency That does not mean it can't be balanced again, but chances are Joe homeowner does hot have the equipment of knowledge to do it and never even considered the need.