Expanding chimney?

[Tc4589]

Hey new here and have a question for you guys. Recently pulled out our old useless fireplace insert and plan on replacing it with a wood stove and then stoning up the wall to the top of our vaulted ceiling. The old fireplace was perfectly centered with the beam running down the middle of the ceiling. Problem is after taking that out we found that the boxing for the insert and chimney is about 6 inches off center! Which sucks because the dimensions for it meets the clearances for our stove perfect.

We don’t want to have the stove and rock off center as it would be obvious with the vaulted ceiling and beam running down the center l. So what we were thinking is taking the sidind off and expanding the chimney box about 8 inches wider. We have extra siding do that wouldn’t be much of a problem
I just wonder if it would be to hard to do alone or if we would need a professional to do it for legal purposes? Any advice would be helpful

 

[webby3650]

Center the stove in the opening and offset the chimney inside the chase.

Can that stove be recessed into an opening like that? The header height looks way too low.

 

[begreen]

Agreed. TC4589 are you looking at the alcove requirements for the stove?

 

[Tc4589]

The blue chalk line is where we’d have to open it to and center it in that opening and it would meet requirements. But that’s when centering it in that offsets it on the wall

 

[begreen]

What stove is this for?

 

[Tc4589]

Woodpro 2.0

 

[begreen]

Great. The WoodPro TS-2000 has alcove specs that allow a 61" threshold height. If the space is 63" wide or more and has a ceiling height of 61" or more then you are good to go for an alcove install there with a back wall clearance of 12" or more. The offset can be made up in the chimney pipe using 30º elbows.

 

[Tc4589]

Ok I think you guys may be confused. The blue chalk lines meet clearance specs, it’s also as wide as the chimney box is built. So I would need to add onto the chimney box and the left side of the picture to be able to fit it within specs AND ALSO have it centered on the wall.

 

[Tc4589]

So my real question is has anyone ever had to add on to their pre-existing chimney box?

 

[bholler]

So my real question is has anyone ever had to add on to their pre-existing chimney box?

I am sure it could be done but expanding that bump out will not be easy. But neither will expandimg the opening inside. It will require stripping quite a bit of drywall. Then supporting the wall while removing and replacing the header for that opening.

 

[Tc4589]

Update for anyone who cares, my neighbor expanded it out to the next stud we insulated and got the cement board and some of the wire mesh up. Our plan is to snap a chalk line level on each side to know how far out exactly we need to go. We are going to stone the box first then do the hearth and install the stove and run the new double wall pipe down into the thimble. Then do the scaffolding over that and install the rest of the stone.

 

[begreen]

Note that the cement board does nothing to reduce clearances and non-combustible roxul would have been better for insulation. I am a bit concerned about temperature buildup. We have another new WoodPro user reporting that the walls are getting too hot with his stove that is installed with the factory required clearances. Hopefully that's not an issue here. Making the opening wider was a good plan. Is there a slight slope up to the front in the alcove ceiling so that heat doesn't get trapped above the stove?

 

[Tc4589]

Yes the clearances for an alcove is 61” from bottom to top. 12” behind and 18” on sides. Right now I’ll have 63” from top of hearth to top, 14” in back and 20” on each side. The ceiling does have a slight angle up to help let heat release but we didn’t make it dramatic because it’s also not a true alcove half the stove will be out from the ceiling of it

 

[Tc4589]

We took the metal lathing off the top and replaced all the drywall with cement board. Do I have to put the metal back up and do a base coat? I’ve been reading and some say if using cement board there’s no need for the metal and base coat and can just apply the mortar on the stone and stick it. Is this true? And what is the best way to cut the veneer?

 

[begreen]

We took the metal lathing off the top and replaced all the drywall with cement board. Do I have to put the metal back up and do a base coat? I’ve been reading and some say if using cement board there’s no need for the metal and base coat and can just apply the mortar on the stone and stick it. Is this true? And what is the best way to cut the veneer?

Might post that question in the DIY section. I think metal lath or chicken wire is prefered but have never done stone veneer.

Also look there for Hogwildz posting on stone veneer. He did it right.