Europa 75- need help and manual if possible

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Exmasonite

Feeling the Heat
Hearth Supporter
Oct 3, 2010
321
Novi, MI
Hi all. First time here. Have spent the last couple hours searching through old threads trying to figure this out...

Just bought a house here in Northwestern, Connecticut. There's a Europa 75 in the basement showing the "F6" error code... something about auger fuse or clogged auger.

I'll admit, i'm a babe in the woods on this and about to call a "professional" but looking for 2 things to start:

1) Anybody got a manual or a source for one?
2) Any info on what type of fuse i need and which one to replace? There's a post by an EmmaZ in '09 saying to use a 1/2 amp, 500 milliamp but also not sure which fuse to replace (I see three when i look at the panel).

Any and all help/advice would be appreciated. The older posts i read were really positive on this stove but as i moved chronologically forward, it got more and more negative. At this point, not really game to replace it so want to try to muddle through the best I can.

Thanks in advance.

-matt

P.S. If i need to consult a pro, any advice on how i do that or who to go to? My stove was made in '06, i think by FPI.
 
Send forum member "Franks" a PM....he is a factory rep for the Europa stove.
 
Thanks for the reply. I will definitely do that.

Oh, for anybody else stopping by, I rechecked and I am getting error F5, not F6. F5 is apperently the feeder auger (vs F6 is the ash extraction auger)
Still need to know what fuses I need and would love a manual. Thanks
 
I can scan and email you a copy of my Europa 75 manual, such as it is. Send me an email with your address.

By the way, I am on my 4th season and just love my Europa. I always burn high grade hard wood pellets. Lower grades tend to have too much loose dust in the mix which clogs the unit. And, if your pellets get wet, DO NOT try to dry them and use them in the stove. Just throw them away otherwise they will clog the machine.

Gloria in Norwich, CT
 
Welcome Gloria....good to know there are a couple of Europa owners on the forum.
 
i think i only count as "half" until i get this up and running. gloria- sent you a PM w/ some question about fuses if you get a chance.
 
Thanks Smokey for providing the links. Glad to hear the Europa is still around.

I've started a new thread entitled
"Moving hot air out from ceiling above Europa 75 stove"

Sure would appreciate it if you and the others would take a look at the thread and comment on the feasibility of my plan.

Gloria
 
hey all...

been away at a conference but wanted to come back and update.

So, stove is up and running!!!

Smokey- thanks for the paromax number. Called up the place and talked to a tech guy there who gave me this gem of advice: Make sure that the 1/2 amp fuse is SLOW blow. That's what made the difference. Stove fired right up and has been going great.

Only other thing he mentioned to me and i'll pass along: Make sure that the feed auger motor is grounded somewhere (which mine already was) as apparently depending on when it was produced, it had a nasty habit of feeding back into the circuit board and wreaking havoc.
 
Exmasonite said:
hey all...

>So, stove is up and running!!!

>Make sure that the 1/2 amp fuse is SLOW blow. That's what made the difference. Stove fired right up and has been going great.

So, where did you get the fuse, and what did you get? Mine just threw an F5 after it was cleaned. The last thing the guy did was test the battery. He pulled the plug and started it with the battery. It started just fine. After he left I went in to start the thing and there was the darn F5.

>Only other thing he mentioned to me and i'll pass along: Make sure that the feed auger motor is grounded somewhere (which mine already was) as apparently depending on when it was produced, it had a nasty habit of feeding back into the circuit board and wreaking havoc.

I've never had problems with mine until now, so I would guess it is grounded. But, what do I look for to know for sure?

Gloria
 
gloriajean said:
Exmasonite said:
hey all...

>So, stove is up and running!!!

>Make sure that the 1/2 amp fuse is SLOW blow. That's what made the difference. Stove fired right up and has been going great.

So, where did you get the fuse, and what did you get? Mine just threw an F5 after it was cleaned. The last thing the guy did was test the battery. He pulled the plug and started it with the battery. It started just fine. After he left I went in to start the thing and there was the darn F5.

>Only other thing he mentioned to me and i'll pass along: Make sure that the feed auger motor is grounded somewhere (which mine already was) as apparently depending on when it was produced, it had a nasty habit of feeding back into the circuit board and wreaking havoc.

I've never had problems with mine until now, so I would guess it is grounded. But, what do I look for to know for sure?

Gloria
--------------

Goofed up and put my first question inside of the quote. Here it is again. I'm really interested in an answer since mine has a blown fuse and it won't work. It's cool tonight and the only heat I have is the Europa and electrical heat.

"So, where did you get the fuse, and what did you get? Mine just threw an F5 after it was cleaned. The last thing the guy did was test the battery. He pulled the plug and started it with the battery. It started just fine. After he left I went in to start the thing and there was the darn F5."

Gloria
 
Gloria- I got a set of four for$ 2.99 at radioshack.

Not sure about the grounding. I have a green wire coming off motor that attaches to metal frame of stove.
 
Had a question about the europa. Figured I would start here but maybe start another thread if no answers.

So, our stove sits in our furnished basement. Our cats live down there. We are trying to get some of the heat out of the basement while keeping cats contained.

I am debating cutting some vents in the floor of the main level to encourage heat to rise.

The europa has 6 one inch air jets that blow warm air out of stove. Is there any problem with attaching some ducting to 2 of the jets and then attaching the ducts to my new vent? My biggest worry is that increased impedance could put stress on blower motor. Any thoughts?
 
You don't want to add any additional length to the convection tubing. It can place additional strain on the blower.

You need to help the air flow by moving the cold air down to the stove which is going to cause you problems with keeping the cats down there.

Adding those floor grates may be your best bet, you'll need one for the cold air as well as the warm air. I have no idea if that will provide the heat you need.

I have a basement install and a cat, he has free run of the house, but spends most of the heating season in a rocking chair in front of the stove with his belly exposed to the heat.

So I have no need to keep my cat confined.
 
Thanks for the info,smokey.

The basement is about 700 sq ft of furnished space. Stove keeps it real toasty plus fuel oil boiler fires up from time to time to warm water. Willit really get that chilly down there if I cut the vents in?
 
I have a basement install, I have to due the opposite to keep the cats up stairs. The basement is mine! I have toys I don't want the kittys getting into. And a small work shop that has other things kittys shouldn't get into.

Best thing I did was install a louved door on the basement. Lets the heat out the top and the cool air in the bottom. I mounted a fan right on the door to assist moving the cool air into the basement area. Screen door would work too!
 
Jr-
Thanks for the info. Where dis you put the louved door? We have a door at top of stairs and then a 90 degree turn at bottom of stairs with another door. I cut a 2 ft x2 ft vent in top of bottom door and still got no air flow. I am debating venting the upper door but that's another aesthetic issue that is giving me friction from the wife. I have been keeping upper door open and still don't seem to generate much air flow.

Is there any benefit to having an engineer or Hvac specialist come out? I just don't want to pay $200 to have him say what I already have guessed: i need to vent the floor.
 
I only have a door at the bottom. You would need to do vents or louvers in both doors. Air doesn't more around a door to well. The reason I did the louvers was aesthetic issue or should I say wife issue. I have a raised ranch and the first thing you see when you walk in from outside is the basement door. I stained the door to match the rest of the doors. Looks like its always been there.

One of the best tools I found for seeing the air move around is insents. Plus they smell nice and the wife approved.

An energy audit could help. But its pricey to have done. I spent one winter tinkering with this and that. Cheap fans picked up at tag sales. Candles to find the drafts. I was stuck in doors anyway. and I am fruggle too! :-) I used a laser temp gun to find my hot spot over my stove made a cheap sheet metal hood to catch the heat. Ran duct to floor vents in the cooler rooms to get the heat there. Boosted the air in the ducts with inline booster fans. Then I found the warm air had no chance to move the cool dense air. Added the louvered door and the booster fan to assit moving the cold air and what a difference. I was able to remove the duct booster fans in all but 2 of the rooms.

First place I would start if I had to move and start again is moving the cold air back to the stove area. When the cold air is moved out the warm air naturally replaces the cold air. The cold air is also the hardest to move.

Good luck!
 
J-
thanks again for the info. Looks like we're in the same neck of the woods.

I am keeping upper door open and put vent in door at bottom. Have messed around with a fan at top of stairs (blowing in and out of stairwell) but can't get that heat out. I think too many turns plus fact that stove is over 15 feet from stairs. I think I am going to have to cut some vents. I just hope that does the trick. I am hoping to get away with two or three 4x10 vents near stove that vent into 2 story foyer. There is a ceiling fan in foyer that should help circulate air. Will have to experiment with which direction fan needs to go. May also get some register fans for the vents if this isn't enough.
 
If you are handy you might get some 1/2 " hardware cloth and frame up a "screen" door for the bottom door this will keep the kitties in the basement and then you could leave the upper door open or even remove it from its hinges and store it away.

I'm certain that the kitties won't be able to get through the hardware cloth as that is what we use to cover venting for our chicken coops (installed properly it is raccoon proof).
 
I have a 20x20 inch vent cut into the door with zero airflow. I could put a second vent in door if necessary. Just worried it's too mantcorners and too much distance to get good airflow. But... I have already cut 1 hole in the cheap door. What's another?
 
Exmasonite said:
I have a 20x20 inch vent cut into the door with zero airflow. I could put a second vent in door if necessary. Just worried it's too mantcorners and too much distance to get good airflow. But... I have already cut 1 hole in the cheap door. What's another?

You need a way for the cold air at the bottom and the heated air at the top to freely flow past each other a single 20x20 won't work worth a half an owl's hoot which is of course no hoot at all.
 
Smokey-

Alright... i'm gonna go ahead and add a second vent in the lower part of the door (put the 1st in the upper half to encourage warm air flow). Once that's in, will place box fan at bottom of stairs to blow cool air INTO bottom vent and hopefully encourage warm air up and out of top vent.

Will let you know how it goes... after that, i'll be resorting to cutting holes in our beautiful new hickory floors!
 
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