Enviro M55-fpi help

[Sarspa]

2011 insert had a power surge earlier this year. Now I’m getting error code 4. This what I’ve done and a tech has done:
2 new mother boards thinking first was bad
New daughter board
New high limit switch
New hopper switch
New low limit pressure switch
Adjusted door thinking that was issue. My tech, his contacts and myself are at dead end. It’s cold

 

[Mt Bob]

Does stove start up and run? If so,do you hear the combustion fan slow down, as it is shutting down?

 

[Sarspa]

Yes It turns on like it always did but pellets don’t drop into firebox then shuts down with E4 code.

 

[kchace]

Referring to the wiring diagram, the orange wires from the main board form a series circuit through both the high limit switch and the hopper lid switch. This circuit is what will throw code #4. If this circuit is open, no pellets will drop.
You should be able to use an ohm meter right at the main board - touch the probes to the 2 orange wires at the connector (Where you can get at bare wire). If the top is closed and the high limit switch is good you should see almost 0 ohms. If you don't get a very low ohms reading, you have a bad switch or a broken wire on that circuit.

Ken

 

[Mt Bob]

I will assume by error 4 you mean light #4 flashing? It really sounds like you do not have a technician working on it, but a parts re placer. Anyway, will trow out some things-
Is auger jammed
Is auger getting power. If not,the easiest thing to try is jumper all 3-hopper switch, hi temp switch and vac switch, at same time, start it and see if motor gets power. If it does, and auger runs, one of them is bad. If not, power auger to to wall outlet and see if it runs. If not, you know what's wrong.
All this is assuming none of the fuses have blown.

 

[Bill L]

You may have already checked this, but make sure the magnet on the bottom of the hopper lid is still in place. You should also be to hear the switch click when you shut the lid properly. Another thought is to make sure the stove or surround have not shifted such that the lid hits the surround before shutting fully

 

[Sarspa]

You may have already checked this, but make sure the magnet on the bottom of the hopper lid is still in place. You should also be to hear the switch click when you shut the lid properly. Another thought is to make sure the stove or surround have not shifted such that the lid hits the surround before shutting fully

Checked that stuff but thank you

 

[Sarspa]

Referring to the wiring diagram, the orange wires from the main board form a series circuit through both the high limit switch and the hopper lid switch. This circuit is what will throw code #4. If this circuit is open, no pellets will drop.
You should be able to use an ohm meter right at the main board - touch the probes to the 2 orange wires at the connector (Where you can get at bare wire). If the top is closed and the high limit switch is good you should see almost 0 ohms. If you don't get a very low ohms reading, you have a bad switch or a broken wire on that circuit.

Ken

Will try this this afternoon. Do I do this after powering up the unit or can I check without hitting the on button? Not an electrical guy but will attempt anything once

 

[Bill L]

Another thought is to check if any wires are hanging down and abraded by contact with the chain drive for the stirrer

 

[stovelark]

4 light flashing is overtemp alarm, can be reset. Check to make sure convection blower is working or free to turn... good luck.

 

[stovelark]

Forgot to add- make sure wiring harness has not slipped loose somewhere either.

 

[JRemington]

Are you able to put a jumper wire between the 2 wires on the 200 degree temperature sensor?

 

[kchace]

Will try this this afternoon. Do I do this after powering up the unit or can I check without hitting the on button? Not an electrical guy but will attempt anything once

This must be done with power off. It will positively verify if your over temp and lid switch circuit is working. If ANYTHING in that circuit including the wires are not good, it WILL cause your exact problem.

Unless you’re experienced at this sort of thing, you should have the stove unplugged when you’re working around the main board because there is AC present and parts of the circuitry are always on. if you’re not sure how to use an ohmmeter perhaps you have a friend who can help?

Ken

 

[Sarspa]

Thanks everyone. After a couple months of trying to figure this out I had a lose wire. All up and running now. Thank you all again

 

[stovelark]

Glad to hear it, M55 is a great heater..