Enviro M55 Convection Blower issues (new Turbo style).

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
Status
Not open for further replies.

DevinM88

Member
Hearth Supporter
May 3, 2010
25
Western MA
I have a 2009 M55 Free-Standing Steelie. Stove is on manual, premium pellets, and is on 24/7. I replaced the old convection blower early 2015 with the newer Turbo style blower. I noticed a slight "whirring" sound (not an increase air sound, but more like an ungreased/dry bearing sound). It sometimes goes away, but I've pretty much gotten used to it. Now my issue - 2 weeks ago the stove was out, hopper 1/2 full, and a blinking 3. I unplugged, waited, plugged back in, and restarted. The convection fan was not moving. Nothing. The fire was orange and not dancing, and the glass was getting dark. Then 2 minutes later, the fan came on, and all was back to normal. This morning, same issue...stove off, 1/4 full hopper, blinking 3. I did the same routine as previously written, however this time, just for giggles, as the fan was not moving, I tapped on the capacitor, and other random parts, with no changes. I then tried to change both the feed trim and combustion air trim. The display showed the level they were at, but I couldn't adjust either of them. About 2 minutes later, the convection blower came on, and I had full control to adjust both trim levels. Weird?? I found a place in Florida that sells the exact same capacitors that are connected to the blower for $15 (instead of the $40 that is online) and I'm thinking I should replace that instead of purchasing a new $250-$275 blower again. Thoughts? Could it be something other than the capacitor convection blower? Also, I own a bare-bones digital Multimeter, but really don't know how to read it correctly. Thanks all!
 
I have the same stove. I don't know why your flame would be affected if just the convection fan stops. Should it happen again, check the combustion blower - running slower or ?

Is the extended hopper worth the cost? I have considered purchasing one.
 
  • Like
Reactions: DevinM88
  • Like
Reactions: DevinM88
Thank you @ohbix . The combustion blower is working perfectly. Still very strong. As for the hopper, I love it. Like I said in my first post, the stove is on 24/7. I can get 4 full bags in that thing. It's a little tall for the wife to add a full bag at a time, so if necessary she would pour 1/2 the bag into a bucket and proceed filling the hopper.

Thank you @johneh . I'm plugged directly into the wall. Everything on the power side appears to be on point.

Now that I'm thinking of it, I'm not 100% sure the flashing light was a #3 or #4. If it happens again, I confirm.
 
Is the stove and the exhaust vents clean? This sounds like an end of year issue when the exhaust vents are dirty and not allowing proper draft to support the fire.
 
  • Like
Reactions: DevinM88
Devin - the Stove does not turn on the convection blower until heat output reaches a certain threshold (I've noticed mine is in the 125F range), and it slowly steps up to the fan speed of the desired heat level as temps keep increasing. Also when the stove is in this 'warmup' cycle you cannot adjust trims...it will show you the set points but not change. Once you hear the ignitor air pump shut down/convection is at full speed, you should beout of the warmup and able to make changes.

For the lazy/black burn...has the stove been thoroughly cleaned recently (within 1 week)? Is the damper set correctly? Installed with an OAK? Upstairs/Downstairs?

Basic questions I know, but Im asking because I am not sure if you are familiar with the stove or not? Combustion in the pellet stove is just air and fuel...dirty burn means you are not evacuating fast enough which points to a bad draw on the exhaust side. So its either a blocked passage in the stove (damper), blockage in the exhaust (clean your traps), or a failing combustion blower....which you should hear whirring on startup.

On the outside chance it is a basement install with NO OAK....you may have a severe negative pressure problem as well.
 
[Hearth.com] Enviro M55 Convection Blower issues (new Turbo style).
***Fixed - i believe***

Thanks for your responses Vinny and NYBurner. Sorry for the delay, I just wanted to wait for the stove to throw another error, so I could confirm the code…Confirmed - Flashing 3.

The stove is in a finished basement, and does not have an OAK (I’ll look to install prior to the next heating season). I’ve meticulously cleaned this stove on a scheduled basis…so I thought. I have never removed the left side panel where one can access the Exhaust blower, channel, and Proof Of Fire/Exhaust Temperature Sensor. I used the proper 5/16 socket and removed the access panel. U.G.L.Y…you ain’t got no alibi (see pic). What an embarrassment on my part. Once I cleaned the moist-like debris off, I reinstalled everything and voilà - I’m back up and running. However I do have a casualty, the gasket (P/N 50-2585) crumbled apart. Could I use a High Temp Silicone instead of that fragile felt-like gasket? Thanks again!
 
Could I use a High Temp Silicone instead of that fragile felt-like gasket?

Hopefully you found the issue.

As for the gasket, yes you can use the High Temp Silicone in a pinch. Just apply enough to make a tight fit and let it dry enough before firing the stove. And keep an eye on it.

Replace it as soon as you can.

You can get the lytherm paper on Ebay. I keep a few sheets in stock for unexpected repairs.

Here is a good thread by Don on how to do it.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...ower-hi-temp-lytherm-gasket-from-sheet.86680/
 
  • Like
Reactions: DevinM88
#3 error is dos not get to 140 degrees in exhaust in 15 minutes or after the strobe started the low limited opened (120 degrees) without hitting the off button or the switch itself is flaking out. #4 means the hopper lid was up for more than 3 minutes while the stove was running or the magnet on the hopper isn't making contact with the the sensor or the sensor is failing. # 4 error and the stove won't feed pellets means the high limit tripped. Trim controls cannot be adjusted until the stove is in run mode just like the pellet type cannot be adjusted unless the stove is of and not while running. if the stove goes into a #4 fault the combustion blower kicks down to idle speed and the flame will look messy.
 
Just a quick update...all appears to be running at 100%. No more issues. I purchased a sheet of Lytherm gasket material from my local pellet stove dealer. Traced the access plate, cut it to size, and reinstalled. Also emptied out the Exhaust pipe clean-out tee one more time. No complaints here. Just praise. Thanks to all the forum members with their helpful solutions, and also Angela over at Russo Products (kept me from purchasing unnecessary parts until I completed a thorough cleaning.) Now if I could find a way to quiet down the rooms convection blower, I hope that a bearing isn't beginning to fail.
 
  • Like
Reactions: vinny11950
Status
Not open for further replies.