Econoburn install

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Bronnct

New Member
Nov 18, 2024
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Skierf123
Anybody out there incorporate a loading unit in there Econoburn boiler install?
I’ve been going by one of NYSERTA plans in their biomass education book. Clearly showing a loading unit installed in most of their plans. I recently heard that it creates a lot of creosote issues by constantly causing Econoburn boiler to idle. Any input would be appreciated.
Thanks

Bill
 
Bill, I have an econoburn 100 that I've been heating with since 2009. I 'll start by saying anything that causes your Econoburn to idle is not good. The goal is a flat out full burn with little or no idling, otherwise you will have a creasote mess. I say this because when I first started using my boiler , I installed it it my basement and burned with no storage-dumb idea. The boiler was so efficient that it would satisfy my heat loads quickly, then idle and become a creosote producer. Even "batch burning" small loads of wood caused this to happen at a lesser extent. I finally bit the bullet and built a dedicated boiler shed and room for a 500 gal. storage repurposed propane tank. Now I have it down to a science and burn flat out for 4-5 hrs a day with no idling to heat my storage to 185-190 deg and this will carry me thru 24 hrs. I never let the storage temp go below 140 deg before the refire. And your near boiler piping and pump will keep water temp up to whatever you set it at before sending it to storage. Bruce
 
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It is common practice that any logwood boiler needs anti-condense protection (loading unit)
I don't see why the Econoboiler does not need it.
It's a basic gasification boiler.
You need wood that is below 20% Moisture Content. The dryer the better.
You need a large thermal storage tank: 500 gallons, 1000 gallons is better.
You need a loading mixing valve or pump group with temperature setting of 150F, 160F is better
It simply will not perform good without the above.

The NYSERDA biomass book is the correct way to do this

The loading group will allow the boiler to come fast up to temperature.
Once the boiler water reached 160F it starts allowing colder water returning.
This way it is protecting your boiler against excessive creosote condensation
That is why it's important to have a setting of 150 or higher.

Depending upon your model, it is important you give it a lot of thermal storage.
Your boiler is most likely ASME certified.
This means it is 1/4" in thickness.
1/4" in boiler walls don't give a good heat exchange; its very ineffective.
Short fires will not work.
The boiler steel needs a long time to come up to temperature for effective heat exchange into the water.
 
Last edited:
Good morning.
I get all of that. That was my original plan. I can always put loading unit back in. Econoburn uses a two pump configuration. One put in boiler loop and the other on return that comes on at 150 degrees. Econoburn burn has an internal PLC that controls these. When I spoke to tech. about wiring in loading unit,he said to take loading unit out. He said it will cause boiler to idle way to much and that I’d end up with a big creosote mess. FYI I do have 800 gallons of storage.
Thanks

Bill
 
You need one or the other, but not both.
If the boiler comes with injection pumping for anti-condense protection, then use that as the boiler seems to have the controls for it build in.
 
I am going to stick with the Econoburn plan for now. Econoburn also feels like loading unit is too restrictive. They like boiler loop done in 2” pipe. I did it in 1 1/4” which is also fine. I haven’t checked wood moisture content. It’s well seasoned. Burning very well in the two Jotul stoves I’m currently running in house. I will check it though.
Thanjs

Bill
 
How is the main boiler pump controlled.
This one should not come on before the boiler water temperature is 160F or higher
Is thsi the case?
Is the boiler pump control by your Econoburn boiler?
 
Been running my Econoburn 200 with the two pump system and storage for 14 years
No issues
 
That’s great. Good to hear. I’m hoping I’ll have this one running within a couple weeks. I have to tie it in to my Energy Kinetics oil boiler. Any advice would be much appreciated.
Happy holidays
Bill
 
If you look at my avatar pic you will se two close tees that have valves and nothing attached, that point down before the circ pump
Those are the tie in for my backup oil boiler, it is tied into the house side of my plate HX
Keeps the heating of storage minimal for short term back up. If i go away for an extened time i close a valve on the HX to stop the ghost flow of BTU's heating storage for no reason
 
Is the plate HX a heat exchanger?
I’m debating whether to install a heat exchanger at house oil boiler. Upside is if boiler gets a leak I won’t flood my basement with 850 gallons of water. House is downhill from storage. The downside is I heard you can loose 5 to 17 percent efficiency. What are your thoughts?
Happy holidays.
 
I have cast iron rads in my house.
The plate HX is for liquid on both sides, my storage and wood boiler are water filled. My back up boiler and underground lines and house are all glycol filled
 
Thats why my wood boiler and storage has water
But underground lines and my house need the protection of glycol.If anything happens i don't need to worry.
I can drain the water if i have to, but a circ pump running will keep the water from freezing
Only used about 80 gallons for the glycol side, which i bought bulk in drums
 
I bought the glycol from and industrial supply company called Gregs Distributing here in western Canada
 
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