E-Classic Deep Clean and Modifications Complete

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antos_ketcham

Member
Hearth Supporter
Mar 5, 2008
155
Spent two hours this morning giving the E-Classic the first real deep clean. I cleaned all the ash and gooey creosote from the firebox, cleaned all the air holes, and cleaned the bypass damper.

I also took the opportunity to implement the two changes recommend from CB. I removed all the firebrick on the walls and I removed the middle grate pipe so now there is only two.

Cleaned the reaction chamber and the HX tubes.

Everything looking good.

Anyone else made the modifications and have and reports on improvements to operation?

Thanks.

Pete
 
check for other threads in the boiler room, quite a few happy burners after doing this mod. Also check the forestry forum under alternative energy quite a few E-classic posts there.
 
Looked at an E-classic today at a show in Madison. They left out the side brick. I can understand why they might be causing problems. They would tend to insulate the tank wall from the fire.
 
Pete, what is the modification removing the center grate improve (plugging ?). I am assuming the damper cleaning is at the contact point of plate door. I did notice some buildup there possibly allowing some smoke to bypass. The firebrick has not been removed from the sides of my unit as of yet please post changes noticed w/removal as i have not had a problem. I also performed a maint. clean this weekend it's pretty easy after a few times.
 
logjammed said:
Pete, what is the modification removing the center grate improve (plugging ?). I am assuming the damper cleaning is at the contact point of plate door. I did notice some buildup there possibly allowing some smoke to bypass. The firebrick has not been removed from the sides of my unit as of yet please post changes noticed w/removal as i have not had a problem. I also performed a maint. clean this weekend it's pretty easy after a few times.

All E-Classics are now being shipped with only two grates and no more firebrick on the inside walls. Folks were having creosote build up behind the bricks and bulge them out. When I did my cleaning I noticed that my bricks were bulging on the lower course. After removal I found quite a bit of thick gooey buildup behind them - came off with some work and now the walls are clean. As for the grate I think the idea is to reduce plugging and improve overall airflow and combustion. With the bypass, this needs to be periodically cleaned to prevent leakage.

The big change I see with the firebrick gone is less creosote on the walls and perhaps improved heat transfer.

Pete
 
Pete Antos-Ketcham said:
logjammed said:
Pete, what is the modification removing the center grate improve (plugging ?). I am assuming the damper cleaning is at the contact point of plate door. I did notice some buildup there possibly allowing some smoke to bypass. The firebrick has not been removed from the sides of my unit as of yet please post changes noticed w/removal as i have not had a problem. I also performed a maint. clean this weekend it's pretty easy after a few times.

All E-Classics are now being shipped with only two grates and no more firebrick on the inside walls. Folks were having creosote build up behind the bricks and bulge them out. When I did my cleaning I noticed that my bricks were bulging on the lower course. After removal I found quite a bit of thick gooey buildup behind them - came off with some work and now the walls are clean. As for the grate I think the idea is to reduce plugging and improve overall airflow and combustion. With the bypass, this needs to be periodically cleaned to prevent leakage.

The big change I see with the firebrick gone is less creosote on the walls and perhaps improved heat transfer.

Pete

It would be highly interesting to find out the difference in stack temps with and without the firebrick. Even more fun would be an actual combustion efficiency test.
 
About a week ago after a monthly cleaning I decided to experiment by taking my large cast iron fire grate from our indoor fireplace and set it inside the E=Classic. This heightened the wood load about 3" above the opening to the combustion chamber and placed the actual burn zone parallel to the air openings. It would appear at least so far that I am getting a more thorough burn all the way around the wood stack and using less wood. Likewise, the creosote build up doesn't appear as bad. Very little ash on the floor of the firebox. Initially appears to be a more efficient burn and no plugging of the opening to the combustion chamber. No problem with the fire going out either in this configuration.

Anyone else out there willing to experiment a little with this? We are in a relative warm spell right now so I'm only able to guess at the usage issue. Would be interested in any additional comments or attempts by others to use a grate.

One other question; is CB going to notify existing users about the removal of firebrick? Is it OK to remove the brick on recently purchased units and are any other modifications needed. I don't want to do any damage. I do know that CB made a repair kit for the bracket which holds the rod on the bypass door. I received that via my local CB dealer who installed my units.

Craig Ormsby
Martinsburg PA
 
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