DuraVent 6DVL-ADWD

[Hap Shaughnessy]

Hello I am looking to purchase a DuraVent 6DVL-ADWD stove top adaptor with damper but cannot find any information on if the damper inside is indeed cast iron or if they have switched to sheet metal. Anyone have a newer version of this unit that can confirm what the damper inside is made of? Thanks. Also does it work well for you slowing down the secondary burn tubes?

 

[begreen]

Give DuraVent support a call and ask what they are currently shipping.

A key damper will be effective if the draft is excessive from a very tall flue system. What stove is this for and how tall is the flue system?

A common cause of raging secondaries is that the air is closed down too slowly or too late. Try closing it down sooner.

 

[jotulf45v2]

I purchased this last year and it was sheet metal inside. Hope this helps.

 

[kennyp2339]

Mine is thick sheet metal and it works pretty good to.

 

[Hap Shaughnessy]

Thanks for the responses and begreen its a Lopi Endeavor 2020 NexGen model with 19 feet of DuraVent pipe going straight up with an outdoor air supply on intake. 14 feet of silver triple wall and 5 feet of black double wall. Its the second 2020 NexGen Endeavor we have had in two years as the first one was defective and the fire could not be controlled. Not sue exactly what the defect was as Benny Barber at Travis Industries did not specify only that the fire in the defective stove could not be controlled. The tubes on the first stove burnt fast and hot the same way this second stove runs. Soon as they light they burn fast and hot until the wood is coals so full load lasts maybe 4 hours. With the primary air closed. Certainly not the 10 hour burn time advertised. Big dry splits of maple, cedar, and doug fir. Species does not matter it runs hot on all of them. So I think Im going to try this damper to try to slow the secondary burn down its pretty much my only option at this point unless I remove a 4 foot section of pipe outside and trying a shorter chimney. If you have any suggestions let me know thanks.

 

[kennyp2339]

Thanks for the responses and begreen its a Lopi Endeavor 2020 NexGen model with 19 feet of DuraVent pipe going straight up with an outdoor air supply on intake. 14 feet of silver triple wall and 5 feet of black double wall. Its the second 2020 NexGen Endeavor we have had in two years as the first one was defective and the fire could not be controlled. Not sue exactly what the defect was as Benny Barber at Travis Industries did not specify only that the fire in the defective stove could not be controlled. The tubes on the first stove burnt fast and hot the same way this second stove runs. Soon as they light they burn fast and hot until the wood is coals so full load lasts maybe 4 hours. With the primary air closed. Certainly not the 10 hour burn time advertised. Big dry splits of maple, cedar, and doug fir. Species does not matter it runs hot on all of them. So I think Im going to try this damper to try to slow the secondary burn down its pretty much my only option at this point unless I remove a 4 foot section of pipe outside and trying a shorter chimney. If you have any suggestions let me know thanks.

This will help you: https://www.grainger.com/product/2T...zLjAStExMe7hk7ZBB9hoCat0QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[begreen]

That's unfortunate. The prior, non-Nex-Gen Endeavor is a pussycat to run. How quickly is the air being shut down? That can help keep secondary burning control a lot

19' of flue should work perfectly. If the chimney clearances to the roof and other structures are ok, I'd try removing the top section of chimney.

 

[kennyp2339]

That's unfortunate. The prior, non-Nex-Gen Endeavor is a pussycat to run. How quickly is the air being shut down? That can help keep secondary burning control a lot

19' of flue should work perfectly. If the chimney clearances to the roof and other structures are ok, I'd try removing the top section of chimney.

I am torn after my personal experience with my very own 16ft chimney, I shouldnt need a damper either and on paper I should be just meeting the minimum thresholds of draft, but I live on top of a hill, below me is a large swamp area and the winter winds come up from the swamp and hit my house, its always blowing, usually between 5-15mph here from Nov thru April, since my chimney is on the rear backside of the house the roof acts like a air foil and adds to my draft issue, since adding a damper to my setup I've take my .18wc draft and lowered it to .08 which has substantially increased stove performance and heat output. I added a second damper to my setup that only gets used during Nor'easters, those freakin NE winds get funneled down the mountain behind me and blow hard, I've literally had 6ft snow drifts against my garage more then a few times

 

[Hap Shaughnessy]

That's unfortunate. The prior, non-Nex-Gen Endeavor is a pussycat to run. How quickly is the air being shut down? That can help keep secondary burning control a lot

19' of flue should work perfectly. If the chimney clearances to the roof and other structures are ok, I'd try removing the top section of chimney.

I shut the air off soon as I can get the tubes to stay lit then its off to the races. Im hoping the damper will help.

 

[begreen]

Try closing down the air quicker, in increments. This is easiest with an accurate reading of flue temps. Otherwise, visually go by the flames. Start turning down the air as soon as the top of the wood is burning well. Turn it down until the flames get lazy, then wait 5-10 minutes for the flames to regain strength and then turn down the air 50% more again. Repeat if necessary.

Starting a fire and running an EPA stove

Questions about starting a fire and avoiding a runaway stove come up so frequently I decided to document starting our stove. This is a Pacific Energy Alderlea T6 with about a 3 cu ft firebox. The stove is connected to a straight-up, 20' interior flue. The outside ambient temperature is 34ºF. The...

www.hearth.com