Dressing the bar

[offroadaudio]

I've just started with filing my own chains and that seems to be going well - or did until today.
The saw just won't cut as fast, even with the "pro" sharpened chain that I put on. I've heard of dressing the bar, but don't know what it is.
Could that be one of my problems? How about any other tips for making the saw rip through the wood.
It's a small saw - maybe that's the issue?

024av
16"
full chisel

Thanks.

 

[JustWood]

Take chain off your bar and run your finger from the center of the flat side of the bar to the edge. If you can feel a burr at the edge take a flat file to the length of the bar. A few strokes should be enough to get the burr off.
I doubt this is the reason it's not cutting. More likeLEE raker depth.

 

[FLINT]

don't know about dressing the bar - maybe that means filing down any sharp parts along the edge down flat

also, when you sharpen your chains, do you also check the raker height and file those down as well if needed? as you sharpen your teeth they gradually get shorter, and if your rakers are the same height, they won't let the teeth get the same bite as they originally did. don't file them down too much or it will get scary. you can get a guide that will sit flat on the chain and show correct raker height.

ps, i'm probably spelling raker wrong, but don't feel like looking it up

 

[FLINT]

haha, funny, me and LEE must have typed the same thing at the same time

 

[offroadaudio]

That sounds easy enough.
I have been filing the rakers, but just lightly - should I get aggressive - like with a grinder?
Thanks for the tips.

 

[smokinj]

Could be the wood you got a hold of! Raker would be my 2nd guess...

 

[TreePointer]

Some "pros" don't know what they're doing. Usually the pros get the cutter correct (sometimes not) but some don't touch the depth gauges (rakers) unless you tell them to do so.

Watch this video in the link below (all of it) to learn how to sharpen your chains properly and dress your bar. It will also give you hints as to why your chain might not be cutting as it should.

Chapter 3: Sharpening Your Saw Chain

 

[offroadaudio]

Great video so far - still buffering - it's bookmarked.
Thanks

 

[smokinj]

Been doing this gig for 30 years....Its Always the Pro fault...LOL

 

[TreePointer]

Been doing this gig for 30 years....Its Always the Pro fault...LOL

I'm not knocking all pros here. I have no doubt you do it right, and there are shops around me that are great.

But there are forums with many complaints about chainsaw/small engine shops who ruin chains by grinding them too long (heat damage) or will return a chain without touching rakers when it's needed. Personally, I've had chain loops improperly spun at a Stihl Gold Level dealer.

 

[smokinj]

Been doing this gig for 30 years....Its Always the Pro fault...LOL

I'm not knocking all pros here. I have no doubt you do it right, and there are shops around me that are great.

But there are forums with many complaints about chainsaw/small engine shops who ruin chains by grinding them too long (heat damage) or will return a chain without touching rakers when it's needed. Personally, I've had chain loops improperly spun at a Stihl Gold Level dealer.

I know but looking at the pro for fault is the very last step in getting his chain right. Both his chain and the pros chain doing the same thing. Tells me first look at the wood your cutting. Could be dirty very hard or just hittig the ground who knows. With a rookie its better to at least think one of those two chain where some what close. I always look at the Operator of the saw first. Even with guys that are very good.

 

[TreePointer]

I know but looking at the pro for fault is the very last step in getting his chain right. Both his chain and the pros chain doing the same thing. Tells me first look at the wood your cutting. Could be dirty very hard or just hittig the ground who knows. With a rookie its better to at least think one of those two chain where some what close. I always look at the Operator of the saw first. Even with guys that are very good.

I agree with you. Operator/operator error is my first look when it comes to a lot of things. My original point was to give a reason why the OP should check the rakers, even though he intimated that the chain should be okay because a pro sharpened it. This point had not been made yet in the discussion. I also thought about mentioning the condition of the wood being cut, but that issue had already been discussed in the thread.

Personally, I've never had a problem with rakers not being addressed by a shop, but reading complaints in chainsaw forums has opened my eyes to this issue.

 

[offroadaudio]

Thanks guys - you're both on the money here - just because this guy charges me money to sharpen my chains, doesn't mean he is meticulous about the practice.
In addition, I am cutting hickory - which as discussed in another thread is unbelievably hard.
But, even on sugar maple and locust, it just doesn't run through like it should - which is what prompted the question.
I'll go through all of the steps in the Stihl video and be back on track I'm sure.

 

[smokinj]

Thanks guys - you're both on the money here - just because this guy charges me money to sharpen my chains, doesn't mean he is meticulous about the practice.
In addition, I am cutting hickory - which as discussed in another thread is unbelievably hard.
But, even on sugar maple and locust, it just doesn't run through like it should - which is what prompted the question.
I'll go through all of the steps in the Stihl video and be back on track I'm sure.

Those are all very hard wood. Locust if your not running 90 degrees to the wood it will dull your chain faster than a cat pooping on ice. We are running a lot of it now when you take a wedge out for felling you can tell a big difference. Touch up often on these woods. YOUR IN THE HOLLY GRAIL OF WOOD! Sharpen Sharpen Sharpen.....When your done sharpening sharpen again.

I will be milling some locust next week.....Its going to be a sharpening Night Mare! I have the mill set-up 10 foot from the grinder and have some one grinding as I am milling. Rotating 3 chains. Only thing that get tougher is Hedge and not by much.

 

[offroadaudio]

In your experience, what would be a good time through a 10" D locust round with a good sharp chain?
3, 5, 10, 15 sec?

 

[smokinj]

In your experience, what would be a good time through a 10" D locust round with a good sharp chain?
3, 5, 10, 15 sec?

Depends on the saw....On a Modded out 460 3-5 sec with a good chain. What saw you running? I could see a 50cc saw and under being in that 10-15 sec range with a good chain. (in Locust)


Where running 3- 360's a 460 and a 192t its hell on chains but that many saws keeping prodution high.

 

[offroadaudio]

I'm running an 024 - but I'm in the 20 - 30 sec range - just fighting it you know?
I'll dress it and adjust those rakers if need be, then report back.

 

[smokinj]

I'm running an 024 - but I'm in the 20 - 30 sec range - just fighting it you know?
I'll dress it and adjust those rakers if need be, then report back.

Check and clean the air filter offten....Thats a small saw for locust. Let it idle a little after a couple cuts your working that little saw hard. I dont think rakers are slowing you down like that its horse power.

 

[JustWood]

A very simple way to check raker depth is to lay a flat file OR something flat across the top of a chains cutter teeth.
The rakers should be about 1/16" or so below the top of the cutter teeth. A little less than 1/16 is better than more.

 

[offroadaudio]

A very simple way to check raker depth is to lay a flat file OR something flat across the top of a chains cutter teeth.
The rakers should be about 1/16" or so below the top of the cutter teeth. A little less than 1/16 is better than more.

That's an easy way to check - will do.
I think I'll be in the market for a bigger model soon. This 024 is old and inherited from a friend, it's seen a lot of use.
I started on it though and was nervous to go bigger. I'm still green, but am willing to step up with the experience that I do have now.

 

[Dingeryote]

What do your chips look like?

Nice square sided and definitive, or lots of dust with a few chips?

 

[offroadaudio]

Dust.

No I have to figure out how to get those loops out of the chain without it looking like I'm trying to solve a rubicks cube!

 

[LLigetfa]

Dust.

No I have to figure out how to get those loops out of the chain without it looking like I'm trying to solve a rubicks cube!

Those loops in the chain would definately reduce the cutting ability. Rather than freehand the raker depth, go buy a raker gauge and a proper raker file.

http://www.extremehowto.com/xh/article.asp?article_id=60639
(broken image removed)

 

[smokinj]

Dust.

No I have to figure out how to get those loops out of the chain without it looking like I'm trying to solve a rubicks cube!

Those loops in the chain would definately reduce the cutting ability. Rather than freehand the raker depth, go buy a raker gauge and a proper raker file.

http://www.extremehowto.com/xh/article.asp?article_id=60639
(broken image removed)

I hate flat rakers. Rough cutting edges and saw vibes alot more. Just my .2 cents worth.

 

[Kenster]

I hate flat rakers. Rough cutting edges and saw vibes alot more. Just my .2 cents worth.

When I take a file to my rakers I try to dress the leading edge just enough to maintain a round profile avoiding a flat top.