This may help
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/electrical-motor-horsepower-d_653.html
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/electrical-motor-hp-amps-d_1455.html
% Efficiency is a variable.
Typically, current (amps) & voltage being the same, HP should be very close to the same.
My guess is the 2 motors, you describe, are close to the same HP.
Some older ones may be rated at the pulley calculated with the specific equipment mechanics factored in which
gave real usable HP at the work end,
now, I believe, most all motor data plates rate specs at the motor shaft.
But it comes back to the math in the above link for HP rating. (Watts/746--- Watts = Volts x Amps)
Your motors calculate to be 4.4 HP with no % efficiency loss calculated (which will mean, less HP, around 3.75 real HP)
220V x 15 Amps / 746 x .85 (*high side efficiency of 85%) = roughly 3.75 HP
Check your house voltage, it may be single phase 208 & not 220, (some motors are rated for 230V, 240V which skews the HP you will get
plugged into your 220V outlet & causes the motor to heat up more--less efficient)
"Load" vs "No load", start current, torque & duty are also variables to be considered.
Best Answer: Try it, if it works, great. If it overheats (smokes, gets too hot to touch) after 15 minutes or trips circuit breakers, it won't work.
*****Just have it electrically grounded well! Plug into a well grounded outlet. Make sure ground (green wire) is connected to the motor frame.
Run a ground wire from the motor the frame to the splitter frame. Mounting a elec motor on wood can cause an electrical shock
!! if not well grounded.
Don't count on mounting bolts for electrical ground.*****
I've found that the older motors were built heavier duty, but have less electrical insulation(a shocking issue), so a ground wire to the case is a MUST.
Many old motors will not work on a GFI circuit for this reason.