Did you know that a craftsman chainsaw with an 18" bar can cut logs up to 36" diameter? I know because the box says so. Take that, Stihl! I may have to buy one. pfft.
Danno77 said:Did you know that a craftsman chainsaw with an 18" bar can cut logs up to 36" diameter? I know because the box says so. Take that, Stihl! I may have to buy one. pfft.
I suppose. Or I guess you could always waste a bunch of wood by cutting wedges out until you could fit your saw in to cut through the middle. Either way, it's misleading. it makes the uneducated consumer think they got 18" of usable chain sticking out in front of the saw.smokinjay said:Danno77 said:Did you know that a craftsman chainsaw with an 18" bar can cut logs up to 36" diameter? I know because the box says so. Take that, Stihl! I may have to buy one. pfft.
it can if its got the horse power or a very softwood, and a little larger no tree is a perfect circle find the flat spot and you can get a little larger
Danno77 said:I suppose. Or I guess you could always waste a bunch of wood by cutting wedges out until you could fit your saw in to cut through the middle. Either way, it's misleading. it makes the uneducated consumer think they got 18" of usable chain sticking out in front of the saw.smokinjay said:Danno77 said:Did you know that a craftsman chainsaw with an 18" bar can cut logs up to 36" diameter? I know because the box says so. Take that, Stihl! I may have to buy one. pfft.
it can if its got the horse power or a very softwood, and a little larger no tree is a perfect circle find the flat spot and you can get a little larger
Danno77 said:I understand what you are saying about underpowered, but the truth remains that if you have a log that is a perfect cylinder then you can't cut all the way through no matter how you try if that log is 36" diameter and you have an 18" bar. there will be at least 2" in the middle you can't touch unless you get creative.
unfortunately it happens often unless your willing to run with 42IN. bar or master it.Reach over the top side and this will set your kerf or groove if you run the saw at the top of the wood to a 90 degree you will not have a problem matching the back side of the wood.Gooserider said:Theory says you should be able to get 2x bar length, which is supposed to be defined as the amount of bar exposed from the front of the saw body to the tip of the bar, so it doesn't include the mounting area that is under the side cover. It also doesn't allow for the bucking spikes - works nicely for me, as my Dolmar has a 20" nominal bar, but very aggressive spikes, so I really have 18" effective, which is also my target round length...
I actually find that doing 2x bar length or close to it is a bit of a pain mostly due to the challenge of getting the two cuts to line up, instead of getting the "spiral slice" effect. I prefer not to do more than about 150-175% of bar length, or about 30-35" w/ my 18" bar. Fatter than that (which I don't get that often) I will go ahead and break out the 28" second bar....
Gooserider
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