joecool85 said:FWIW, I've always been told that you shouldn't treat a closed system with anything, just have straight tap water.
joecool85 said:FWIW, I've always been told that you shouldn't treat a closed system with anything, just have straight tap water.
dogwood said:Trevor, how many gallons can you treat with a quart of the Rectorseal? Didn't find the answer on the link.
Mike
pybyr said:joecool85 said:FWIW, I've always been told that you shouldn't treat a closed system with anything, just have straight tap water.
When I was looking into this topic when doing my initial install, I asked a local heating pro whose work I highly respect what was considered normal good practice. His answer was that, indeed, treatments aren't used by most installers in this area for closed residential systems-- but he was quick to add that no harm could come from it, and that it would probably be a good thing for the life of the boiler
The 8-way that I mentioned above and that I used had the advantages of (a) seeming like a reasonably decent product; (b) being readily available; and (c) being reasonably priced. My Econoburn also came from the factory with a quart of Boiler Seal
www.gunk.com/CAT_B232.asp
which, from what I understand, was included with the boiler to form a protective coating on the metal
in hot water said:maybe a good compromise would be to separate the boiler from large storage volumes and run a cleaner and conditioner just through that part, for a day. A few ball valves properly placed could accomplish that.
Getting the gunk out of the boiler and piping is the most important part. Also getting that coating on the inside of the boiler and expensive components.
hr
Gooserider said:in hot water said:maybe a good compromise would be to separate the boiler from large storage volumes and run a cleaner and conditioner just through that part, for a day. A few ball valves properly placed could accomplish that.
Getting the gunk out of the boiler and piping is the most important part. Also getting that coating on the inside of the boiler and expensive components.
hr
Sounds like a reasonable approach, and probably wouldn't be as wasteful as flushing a thousand gallons or so of barely used water...
One thing I was hoping you'd comment on was the question I raised above about that Boiler Seal stuff - where the product info said not to use it on liquid cooled pumps - is that OK w/ the standard wet-rotor style pumps that just about everyone seems to use these days? I thought those counted as "liquid cooled"?
Gooserider
dogwood said:Part of the function of the additive in my case would be to adjust all 1000+ gallons of the water's Ph to 8 as the Solo Innova's manual calls for. I think my water Ph is already at 7 but haven't checked it in years. Maybe I can adjust that separately. I would like to find a safe non-caustic, economical way to raise just the Ph. Then I can do as HR suggests and run some of that cleaner just through the boiler periodically.
Jim, I am a little worried about putting lye into the system. I know from stripping furniture it will burn you up and I'm more concerned could possibly cause plastic rotors, integral flow check valves, or other plumbing parts harm over time. Does anyone know if there is there another way to raise Ph for large amounts of water. Maybe some kind of swimming pool product?
Mike
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