Clearance between stove and window question

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aflacher

New Member
Hearth Supporter
Sep 20, 2010
6
Eastern MA
Hello,
I purchased a refurbished lakewood stove and plan to install it in my sunroom. I fear I will not be able to track down a manual for this stove, so i will be installing per nfpa211 specifications (if anyone knows where I might get a manual that would be great). I am wondering about the clearance required between a window and a stove. I am planning on mounting a shield of some sort on the drywall to bring my required clearance down to 18". What is unclear to me is the requirement for a window. obviously, i will not be putting a shield over it. I have seen installations near windows, but I live in MA and anticipate being held to a higher standard by the inspectors than people in other states. as things are, the stove will be 18" from the edge of the window when installed. Additonally, I am wondering what people recommend for a shield, and where i would aquire it.
 

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Looks like a pre-EPA stove that may require 36" clearance from combustibles, especially with docs or a UL label (on back of stove) stating clearances.
 
Correct, if the stove ever was listed, the tag is long gone. My understanding is that unlisted stoves can be installed per nfpa211 specs for unlisted appliences. I am wondering about the window to the right of the stove. Is glass a combustable material? Do I have to remove or cover the window trim somehow?
 
If you are going for reduced clearances, the back wall shield will need to extend to cover the window trim. The glass is not combustible. But if a lot of heat is radiated from the back of the stove there is a remote possibility of problems due to the thermal differential on the two sides of the glass.
 
treat the wood trim as a combustible, not the glass. Another, more clever, alternative would be to install the shield on the stove, maybe??
 
Mounting a shield on the stove, I like that option. Without a manual, is that something that I could consider? Would this simply be at the discretion of the building inspector. My experience with MA officials thus far has not been good. Things that are easy in other states, like obtaining license plates, have been a nightmare here. I spoke with the local building dept about installing an unlisted stove, but still dread the inspection.
 
Your inspector wouldn't be named Don would it? Have you approached the inspector on the issue and proposed solutions that he would approve?
 
I don't recall the inspectors name. The official policy is no unlisted stoves. I wanted an older stove and inquired about this. I was I could install unlisted and should follow the manufacturer's instal specs. Because the stated policy is no unlisted, I'm worried that he could easily change his mind or not even recall the conversation. My impression is that the city frowns upon doing your own work and used equipment. The stove itself is in excellent shape, having just been completely overhauled by an oldtimer in NH who seemed very knowledgeable. I had intended to buy a fisher, but he explained how they lacked baffels. He recommended alpiner, all nighter, and the lakewood I ultimately bought. He said he has sold hundreds of unlisted stoves to MA residents and has only had one returned because the inspector rejected it.
 
summit said:
treat the wood trim as a combustible, not the glass. Another, more clever, alternative would be to install the shield on the stove, maybe??

if the stove were equippable with a heat shield and tested with it for clearance it would be an acceptable option , however without a ul approved "optional" heat shield with clearance data provided it does not allow a clearance reduction as there is no coverage of it in the 211.

only allowable reduction in clearance without listed add on heat shields from the factory and mention on the data plate is with a wall mounted shield which depending on method can reduce the distance by 33 to 66 % with minimums of 33% being at 18 inches and 66% being 12 inches , the unit cannot under any circumstance be mounted closer than that without UL safety test data provided by the manufacturer or the testing agency and even then the safety tag MUST be attached to the stove from the factory. the bottom line with a stove even if it was at build date UL 1482 approved, if the data tag has been removed the stove is automatically "unlisted" and is subject to NFPA211 clearance requirements even if the stove can be identified and factory clearance data is obtained.


BTW unless the tile under the stove is installed on a concrete or other non combustible floor the install is not to code due to the lack of floor protection, and IMHO the stove is way too close to the unprotected wall. not picking on anyone im just trying to explain the installation should not as its pictured be passed by the inspecting official.

edit , im remiss in offering help, didnt want to sound cold about it, if you want call me at my shop i have a 211 on my desk there i'd be happy to explain what you need to do, its not my stove but being a hearth member its the least i can do , number is 800-245-6489 ask for mike im in from 8-5 eastern mon-fri.
 
You are good people Mike from Madison.
 
Thanks for the offer to help Mike, I may well contact you. I know the stove is too close to the wall in the picture. I hope to install it 20" or so from both walls; 36" puts it out in the center of the room, something I'd like to avoid by using a shield on the wall.
 
That looks like a rear vent stove. If so, there may not be a lot of wiggle room here. I'm curious, why go through all of this when there are modern, clean burning, inspector friendly, cost effective alternatives and a tax credit for going this route?
 
BeGreen said:
That looks like a rear vent stove. If so, there may not be a lot of wiggle room here. I'm curious, why go through all of this when there are modern, clean burning, inspector friendly, cost effective alternatives and a tax credit for going this route?

I was wondering the same thing . . . for me going with a new stove was a no-brainer -- long burns, clean burns, using less wood . . . and at the time I didn't even have the tax credit option.
 
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