cleaning jotul oslo 500

[maxice24]

fellow wood burners
can any oslo owners advise me on how to clean jotul oslo 500 without having to move the stove?
will it suffice just wiggle out the bricks on back portion-or doi have to remove secondary burn tubes?
any advice -pictures,will help
i have straight flue pipe 14 ft s.s
center of house
EASY roof access
just dont feel like moving this beast of a stove if i dont have to
thanks in advance
maxice

 

[CarbonNeutral]

Remove the top oval plate - why would you ant to move it?

 

[Shari]

Remove the top oval plate - why would you ant to move it?

Yup. CN is correct. Our stove is not installed yet (still waiting for insulation delivery) but I had the salesperson contact Jotul with this same question.

The oval top plate is connected to the top by bolts at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock as you stand in front of the stove. Simply remove the bolts, remove the oval plate - access is granted! The top blanket is then exposed, the crud from cleaning top-down falls to the upper rear which can be reached via a very flexible hose (someone suggested using a small section of garden hose temporarily attached to your vacuum.)

Cleaning our Oslo without moving it for cleaning became the 'to purchase or not to purchase' item for us. Once it was explained how easy cleaning could be out came the checkbook.

Shari

 

[logger]

Im planning on taking the baffle out for a more thorough clean.

 

[Rayman]

Hi everyone,
I have a quick question about removing the top plate on the Jotul Oslo. Removing the front bolt seem fairly easy, since its in front of the baffle. How do you remove the rear bolt though? Do I need to remove the secondary burn tubes and the baffle first?

Thanks

 

[firefighterjake]

Hi everyone,
I have a quick question about removing the top plate on the Jotul Oslo. Removing the front bolt seem fairly easy, since its in front of the baffle. How do you remove the rear bolt though? Do I need to remove the secondary burn tubes and the baffle first?

Thanks

For a guy like me with fat fingers it can be a bit of an exercise in dexterity . . . but even a guy like me with fat and clumsy fingers can remove the nut (or was it a bolt. . . . I forget) from the front and back of the plate . . . just have to keep your hand in between the baffle and top. No need to remove the burn tubes or baffle. Incidentally, if you do a search you may find a thread where someone posted how to remove the entire top off the Oslo.

 

[Shari]

Hi everyone,
I have a quick question about removing the top plate on the Jotul Oslo. Removing the front bolt seem fairly easy, since its in front of the baffle. How do you remove the rear bolt though? Do I need to remove the secondary burn tubes and the baffle first?

Thanks

No you do not. When the stove is cool enough, reach straight back at 12 o'clock and you can feel it way up there.

Shari

 

[KevinK]

Hi everyone,
I have a quick question about removing the top plate on the Jotul Oslo. Removing the front bolt seem fairly easy, since its in front of the baffle. How do you remove the rear bolt though? Do I need to remove the secondary burn tubes and the baffle first?

Thanks

For a guy like me with fat fingers it can be a bit of an exercise in dexterity . . . but even a guy like me with fat and clumsy fingers can remove the nut (or was it a bolt. . . . I forget) from the front and back of the plate . . . just have to keep your hand in between the baffle and top. No need to remove the burn tubes or baffle. Incidentally, if you do a search you may find a thread where someone posted how to remove the entire top off the Oslo.

...well, ...even though I'm ..."the new guy on the block..." here, I actually just did this, ...took the whole top off the (F 500) stove. Very very simple...

1.) Remove the 6" top/rear pipe adapter. (two 10mm bolts)
2.) Once the pipe adapter is off, ...you'll have easy access to the three(3) 10mm bolts that hold the top on. There were TWO in the front, ...and ONE centered in the back, that bolt up into the underside of the top. The front ones are not impossible to get to, ...just take your time.
That's it, ...from there, the top lifts right off. The bolts are not excessively tight, ...so be sure not to over-tighten when putting it back together.

My stove is not yet installed, so I could easily get behind it. This should still be possible while stove is in place, ...it's just going to require a bit more patience.


Kevin

 

[firefighterjake]

Hi everyone,
I have a quick question about removing the top plate on the Jotul Oslo. Removing the front bolt seem fairly easy, since its in front of the baffle. How do you remove the rear bolt though? Do I need to remove the secondary burn tubes and the baffle first?

Thanks

For a guy like me with fat fingers it can be a bit of an exercise in dexterity . . . but even a guy like me with fat and clumsy fingers can remove the nut (or was it a bolt. . . . I forget) from the front and back of the plate . . . just have to keep your hand in between the baffle and top. No need to remove the burn tubes or baffle. Incidentally, if you do a search you may find a thread where someone posted how to remove the entire top off the Oslo.

...well, ...even though I'm ..."the new guy on the block . . .

I learn a lot by hanging out here . . . and not just from the old-time veterans . . . in fact I believe it was a new-bie that first shared how to get the top off the Oslo . . . and just the other day someone gave a tip for avoiding some of the ash spill out in the front . . . which is why I love to read posts from both newbies and veterans alike . . . many have good stuff to share . . . and so . . . welcome to the hearth.com.

 

[Valhalla]

Just cleaned my Oslo and flue 3 weeks ago.

Remove the long air tubes, baffle and the blanket. Clean the
flue with a Sooteater. Vacume all, reassemble and add
stove cement as needed. Some mechanical patience is
a plus.

All in about an hour, and all from the inside.

 

[webby3650]

I am able to remove the blanket, slide the baffle forward to allow most of the crud from the flue fall into the stove, the rest is easily accesible with a flex-brush. The manual says you can remove the baffle without removing the tubes, I wasn't able to remove mine.

 

[semipro]

Maxice,
You may find this post helpful.
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/43141/

 

[begreen]

There is only one air control on the Erin, a the top center. The control on the side bottom right is the ash shutter. This should only be open when dumping ash to the ash pan. Otherwise it should be pushed all the way in. If it won't go all the way in, make sure there isn't a chunk of charcoal blocking the shutter.