Hey fellas, I have a Clayton 1600 wood furnace that I had a hard time keeping under control last winter. I would load the wood stove up to the top of the fire bricks with hardwood. I could get a nice fire going but after a few hours for whatever reason it would try to run away sporadically. It doesn't happen everytime but it has done it enough that I don't trust to run it while my family and I are away or asleep.
One night at 3am, I woke up to house that was very warm inside enough so that i went down to check on it and as soon as i opeded the basement door i could feel it was way too hot. The flu pipe was at 500 degrees according to my IR thermometer but i think there was some ash or creosote insulating the pipe falseifying the reading. I opened the door and it was a raging inferno, enough so that my butt puckered immediately. I shut it down quick and got it under control however that was the last time it ran during the night.
I can barely have the spin draft intake control open maybe a spin or two but it seems like it just gets hotter and hotter over the course of a few hours or so.
My setup is as follows, 6" 90 degree elbow right off the furnace to a horizontal run of 3 or 4 feet straight into a 6" double wall chimney that's 25ft tall. I also have a Fields Control barometric damper installed and set to a .05wc verified by a permanently mounted Dawyer manometer. I called US Stove to verify the baro damper with wood and they said it was OK to use. This furnace also has no electronic controls whatsoever. The previous owner either removed everything or it was removed prior to him acquiring it.
I was tossing around the idea of removing the baro and instead installing a MPD to see if it controlled the air flow better to keep the fire damped down. My draft has reached .11 before the baro was installed. I'm trying to find a way to have a nice steady burn and get longer than 3-4hrs burn. I did manage to speak to the previous owner and he stated that they had to check on the furnace every hour to make sure it wasn't running away on them. He said they never trusted it either. I just moved into this house a year ago so I need to keep this heater for atleast 2-3yrs before I upgrade when funds allow.
One night at 3am, I woke up to house that was very warm inside enough so that i went down to check on it and as soon as i opeded the basement door i could feel it was way too hot. The flu pipe was at 500 degrees according to my IR thermometer but i think there was some ash or creosote insulating the pipe falseifying the reading. I opened the door and it was a raging inferno, enough so that my butt puckered immediately. I shut it down quick and got it under control however that was the last time it ran during the night.
I can barely have the spin draft intake control open maybe a spin or two but it seems like it just gets hotter and hotter over the course of a few hours or so.
My setup is as follows, 6" 90 degree elbow right off the furnace to a horizontal run of 3 or 4 feet straight into a 6" double wall chimney that's 25ft tall. I also have a Fields Control barometric damper installed and set to a .05wc verified by a permanently mounted Dawyer manometer. I called US Stove to verify the baro damper with wood and they said it was OK to use. This furnace also has no electronic controls whatsoever. The previous owner either removed everything or it was removed prior to him acquiring it.
I was tossing around the idea of removing the baro and instead installing a MPD to see if it controlled the air flow better to keep the fire damped down. My draft has reached .11 before the baro was installed. I'm trying to find a way to have a nice steady burn and get longer than 3-4hrs burn. I did manage to speak to the previous owner and he stated that they had to check on the furnace every hour to make sure it wasn't running away on them. He said they never trusted it either. I just moved into this house a year ago so I need to keep this heater for atleast 2-3yrs before I upgrade when funds allow.
