Chicago saw chain sharpner

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My nephew has had one for a couple years and it seems to sharpen our chains just fine. I got one for XMAS and just started learning how to use it. The three or four chains I've sharpened seem to work OK. I did just order a 3/16"wheel from Bailey's to properly do the 3/8" chains.
 
Stubborn Dutchman said:
My nephew has had one for a couple years and it seems to sharpen our chains just fine. I got one for XMAS and just started learning how to use it. The three or four chains I've sharpened seem to work OK. I did just order a 3/16"wheel from Bailey's to properly do the 3/8" chains.

use this on the stone really helps!
http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=46440&catID=9805
 
I have a Chicago chain sharpener from Harbor Freight (their house brand). It works just fine...not rocket science. I'm sure it's not as sturdy as the higher-priced sharpeners, but I got it for $24.99 on sale, so I can buy several before I've spent as much as the better ones. (Plus, the Chicago/HF does have a warranty).
 
I have a power equipment repair shop and have a large oregon chain sharpener. A few of my customers that sharpen a lot of chains have purchased the chicago sharpener. I've used it myself and it works excellent for the money. The only thing I noticed is you have to take smaller bites,the motor is small and you will burn the chain if you take to big of a bite. Best way is to sharpen the chain twice. Take a little of the first time and a little more the second time. Best angles I use in my shop is 65 degree tilt and 30 degree cutting angle.

Barry
B&R Lawnmower
 
My FIL has an Oregon sharpener and told me that once you start sharpening with the wheel, using a hand file doesn't work well any more. The grinder heat must affect the metal a little.
 
hope it's better than some of their other tools. Bought a Chicago angle grinder and and a drill from HF, both were crap.

Having said that, I've also bought some HF hand tools that were of good quality, so buyer beware I guess.
 
It's flimsy (flexes a lot) and imprecise, the chain clamp often doesn't hold well, the chain stop is badly aligned and needs to be separately adjusted for left and right cutters. That said, there are workarounds for the major stuff and for the $30 I paid it has served its purpose (rescuing rocked chains and chains I've hand-filed too many times). As my caution near the ground and filing technique both improve I use it less and less.

I've had no problems going back and forth between grinder and file, BTW. Although they certainly cut a somewhat different profile, so some extra file strokes are needed.
 
I've had one for 4 years and it works fine for the money especially when compared to taking your chains to someone. Not the most elegant tool, but gets the job done.
 
Anyone have opinions about the DR company and products?

(broken link removed to http://www.drpower.com/prdSell.aspx?p1Name=harvesting&Name=ElectricChainsawSharpener)
 
ggans said:
Anyone have opinions about the DR company and products?

(broken link removed to http://www.drpower.com/prdSell.aspx?p1Name=harvesting&Name=ElectricChainsawSharpener)

thats way to much for that unit, northern tool or harbour will have something close for under 50.00
 
Yeah , it is in the running for sure. The others for 50 bucks don't seem like a good idea.. I have to find out where it is made..
 
Ok , DR just mailed me and said there product is made in Italy, do you suppose it comes out of the same plant as the one from Bailys above?
 
ggans said:
Ok , DR just mailed me and said there product is made in Italy, do you suppose it comes out of the same plant as the one from Bailys above?

it probally does, Dr got a hudge mark up on that grinder and doesnt look as well made. Most chain grinders are made in Italy.
 
I am a hudge oregon 511A fan made in Italy and a lot of fine products are made there leather and pipes come to mind...silveys I Think are made in the US there for very large prodution line type work (dealerships large logging co) confirm silveys are made in the US

http://www.baileysonline.com/search.asp?SKW=silvey grinder&catID=9760
 
DiscoInferno said:
I've had no problems going back and forth between grinder and file, BTW. Although they certainly cut a somewhat different profile, so some extra file strokes are needed.
He's probably just trying to keep me away from it! ;-P
 
It's not the first time I've heard that you can't go back to filing after using a grinder. When I was in the hardware store last year a woman came in to see how they sharpened chains; she was looking for someone who did not use a grinder for that very reason. But she couldn't say why there might be a problem, just something she had heard. Maybe it's like burning pine and "teh creosotes"?
 
Obviously any time you add heat to steel you are going to change it's properties. However, unless the chain is really terrible, are you adding that much heat to the tooth by using the grinder?
 
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