chainsaw newbie (updated 3/16: I finally bought a saw!)

[Mt Ski Bum]

Ok- I'll admit it- I'm a newbie to chainsaws. I am looking to buy a chainsaw for firewood collecting- The small amounts of firewood collecting I've done before (mainly for summer campfires, etc...) has been easy to cut with my folding Sven saw, but this spring I am moving into a place with a fireplace, & will probably look to stock up several cords for winter, & thus a chainsaw would be nice (Cutting several cords by hand would take forever, plus chainsaws can cut larger diameter logs). I am looking for a chainsaw that is relatively easy to use/low maintenance (& isn't super expensive).

Any advise would be greatly appreciated!

-Eric

 

[Dingeryote]

Stop in at each of the local dealers shops and look at the 50cc saws, and talk to them.

Pick the dealer first. Stihl, Husky, Dolmar, Echo all make a good mid range 50cc saw and ya can't go too worng with any of them, with a good dealer backing them up.
A good dealer will even take the time to walk a newbie through basic safe operation. Bieng new, I can't stress having a GOOD local dealer enough.

Stay away from the Box store saws even if they sell the same saw for less. The dorks in the vests and bibs are no help when you need it, and darn sure wont have parts.

My call? Husky 350/450 or Stihl MS250. Take care of either one and run 'em hard with honest use,and you'll likely never need another new saw.
2-3 cords a year isn't much use, but a saw that can cut 6-20 a year without breaking a sweat is a must so you can get ahead.

Best of luck to ya

 

[Naandme]

Well a stihl 361 would be a great choice just depends on what you want to spend. You can look around and pick up a decent used saw for 200.00 up a 028 or 029 stihl used will set you back around 200.00 or up. They are great saws!

 

[Mt Ski Bum]

does anyone have experience with Homelite saws? I found this one with a 20" bar on eBay: (broken link removed to http://cgi.ebay.com/HOMELITE-360-PROFESSIONAL-AUTOMATIC-CHAINSAW-VERY-NICE-/300534253991?pt=US_Chainsaws&hash=item45f93cc9a7)

I also found this othe Homelite saw that the seller says is a great beginner saw: (broken link removed to http://cgi.ebay.com/Homelite-240-Chainsaw-/110657648613?pt=US_Chainsaws&hash=item19c3b5b7e5)

any feedback? thanks!

 

[smokinj]

Not knowing much about saw's a good new saw stihl 170, 180 should have you rolling quick enough. There's many more other brands!

 

[smokinj]

Well a stihl 361 would be a great choice just depends on what you want to spend. You can look around and pick up a decent used saw for 200.00 up a 028 or 029 stihl used will set you back around 200.00 or up. They are great saws!

Lets turn them saw's into outboard motors Mark! Wow its a little soggy!

 

[Jutt77]

Go to a Home Depot with a rental shop and RENT a Makita 6401. Try it out and if you like it, see if they have one for sale or try to find a used one. They usually sell them for a round $250 (brand new is $500-600...I found one in a pawnshop for $140) and you will get a really nice used saw thats not too outrageous but not too weak that you "outgrow" it in 3 months. Plus, it has bolt on upgrade options to turn it into a whole new animal.
Its a very durable, German-made (Dolmar) 64cc, 4.7hp pro saw thats very easy to work on and maintain and can run up to a 32" bar. Tons of info on Arboristsite around that saw.

A 361 would be a good choice too its just hard to find those in the same $250 price range.

 

[moosetrek]

My honest opinion is plan to spend about $250-300 for a decent saw. You can pick one up at HD or sears cheaper, but do a couple searches, there are several threads on this out here. Almost unanimously, they recommend a used or entry-level new stihl or husqvarna over any other brand.

A little off-topic, but you'll likely be buying from a shop that knows their stuff and will often help you out with all the extras (gas mix, files, chain, earplugs, etc. - it sounds minor but I've gotten free advice while buying a $2 file that saved me a $20 chain) and repairs or parts. As an example, the local shop charges $8 for a chain sharpening while I wait. That includes me standing at his bench, using his compressor to clean out my saw while he sharpens (and shows me how), him checking it over and making sure it works right. Worth more than $8 any day, and not something available most places that sell Poulan or Homelite.

Factor into your purchase the cost of personal protective equipment (PPE), plan on $70 for chaps. The hardhat / helmet and goggles are pretty cheap but necessary.

 

[TreePointer]

Lots of good advice already. I'll just add a little to it:

A good 50cc saw is a nice starting point. It will run a 16-18" bar just fine.

Those MS361 saws (~60cc) are very nice, but they are getting harder to find new since they've been replaced by the MS362. Either one will competently cut with a 20" bar buried in hardwood.

If you are new to chainsaws, then watch all 5 of these videos:

Stihl Video Library -- Chapter 1: Chain Saw Features

They'll teach you about safety, technique, maintenance, and likely save you money (sharpen your own chains, etc.).

 

[Exmasonite]

a complete side note but you mention the word "fireplace"...

If you're planning to use the FP to do any sort of significant home heating, you want to strongly consider popping a wood stove insert in there. Fireplaces are unfortunately a HUGELY inefficient way to heat a house and if any, suck more warm air out of the house more than they add to it.

Just something to consider if you're getting serious about wood burning.

 

[atvdave]

a complete side note but you mention the word "fireplace"...

If you're planning to use the FP to do any sort of significant home heating, you want to strongly consider popping a wood stove insert in there. Fireplaces are unfortunately a HUGELY inefficient way to heat a house and if any, suck more warm air out of the house more than they add to it.

Just something to consider if you're getting serious about wood burning.

Agree 100%... Don't try o heat your home with a open fire place... You must have a insert or a free standing wood stove....

 

[Mt Ski Bum]

a complete side note but you mention the word "fireplace"...

If you're planning to use the FP to do any sort of significant home heating, you want to strongly consider popping a wood stove insert in there. Fireplaces are unfortunately a HUGELY inefficient way to heat a house and if any, suck more warm air out of the house more than they add to it.

Just something to consider if you're getting serious about wood burning.

It is one of those cheapo ineffiecnt ZC fireplaces, & I am aware of how inefficent they (& open masonry fireplaces) can be. I'm hoping to tear it out & replace it with a new ZC fireplace like the North Star (I've posted a couple threads over in the wood stove & fireplace section regarding this). It is a rental, so I'll probably have to convice my landlord before I can replace it.

 

[Singed Eyebrows]

does anyone have experience with Homelite saws? I found this one with a 20" bar on eBay: (broken link removed to http://cgi.ebay.com/HOMELITE-360-PROFESSIONAL-AUTOMATIC-CHAINSAW-VERY-NICE-/300534253991?pt=US_Chainsaws&hash=item45f93cc9a7)

I also found this othe Homelite saw that the seller says is a great beginner saw: (broken link removed to http://cgi.ebay.com/Homelite-240-Chainsaw-/110657648613?pt=US_Chainsaws&hash=item19c3b5b7e5)

any feedback? thanks!

I would stay away from "those" Homelites. If you want a great saw that is normally cheap, buy a Homelite SXL. These are torquers & can run a 24" bar. Make sure it has good compression & make sure you don't just yank the rope fast to test. I worked at the Homelite dealer for quite a few years, Randy

 

[Mt Ski Bum]

.

My call? Husky 350/450 or Stihl MS250. Take care of either one and run 'em hard with honest use,and you'll likely never need another new saw.

Best of luck to ya

would a Stihl 250 be good for cutting about 4 (maybe 5) cords of wood per year? It looks like a great saw, especially the C-BE version, but Srihl does rate it as an "occasional use" saw. Their MS261's seem nice also, but I can't find any used ones for sale (I don't think I can afford a brand new Stihl)

 

[Backwoods Savage]

A Stihl 250 would indeed be a good saw for you. For sure I would advise staying away from the bigger saws as you are just starting out. I also would advise to go with nothing longer than a 16" bar. That will cut a 32" diameter tree and you probably won't want many of those anyway.

For sure find a good dealer as the help you will get there is priceless. Also be sure to watch those videos that were posted.

All in all, running a chain saw can be very dangerous but still do not fear learning how to properly handle one. It is not that difficult even though some will say it is. Take your time and you'll do well. One word of advise that I will give for sure though is when you are running the saw, if you start to get even a little tired, shut that saw off. It is time to quit for the day. Accidents happen when people continue to work when they are tired. Don't let that happen and you'll be fine. Good luck.

 

[moosetrek]

Stihl's "occasional use" saws are still, in my opinion, far better than something like a Poulan Pro. I think you will be happy with it. I recommend you buy some non-safety chain once you're feeling comfortable using the saw. It's hard to express how much better it cuts (my experience only); but even though it sounds more dangerous I think overall it's safer - you cut faster, with less effort and that relates to what Backwoods Savage said above. The more you work at it, the more tired you get, the more likely to have an accident. So keep your saw sharp, take your time, and rest when you need to. It saves more time than having to go get stitches. Good luck!

 

[Mt Ski Bum]

alright, I just bought a used 18" Stihl MS-290 off of e-bay for about $176+shipping... I'm hoping I made the right decision! I kept debating between it, the 250, the 260, & a few other Stihls I found on e-bay. Wood cutting season, here I come!

 

[Danno77]

I think that's a good deal if it's in decent shape. Just because another newb might have the same question and read this thread I wanted to throw in my 2cents.

stay away from old macs, homelites, etc. If you want an old saw get a good 30year old Stihl and let a dealer service it. When you start getting used to saws and how they work, then let the disease take hold and get whatever tickles your fancy. Those older saws are a blast to play with, and can even be very useful as backup saws, big job saws, etc., but I would be wary of ONLY having a really old McCulloch (for example) if I was a newb. People have done it, though, so ymmv.

I still disagree (to a point) with everyone who says to buy the nicest saw you can afford. I think there is a lot to be said for buying a cheap poulan or whatever and learning on it. It will take your mistakes without costing you an arm and a leg, and you'll learn what you like and want in a saw for when you go get a REAL saw, then you can demote your cheapo to backup saw status. I dunno, just one more option to throw out there for ya.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

That saw should serve you well. We have one but chose to put only a 16" bar on it.

 

[Uper]

I have the 290 and a 250. I like them both. The 250 has a little thinner chain, so cuts a with a little less resistance. I took my extra chain from my 290 purchase back to the dealer to replace it with a green chain. The difference is night and day for cutting ability. I love the green chain over the yellow! Just get a good grip on it and don't let it have the opportunity to kickback!

 

[HittinSteel]

I have the 290 and a 250. I like them both. The 250 has a little thinner chain, so cuts a with a little less resistance. I took my extra chain from my 290 purchase back to the dealer to replace it with a green chain. The difference is night and day for cutting ability. I love the green chain over the yellow! Just get a good grip on it and don't let it have the opportunity to kickback!

I think you reversed the colors!

 

[Thistle]

I have the 290 and a 250. I like them both. The 250 has a little thinner chain, so cuts a with a little less resistance. I took my extra chain from my 290 purchase back to the dealer to replace it with a green chain. The difference is night and day for cutting ability. I love the green chain over the yellow! Just get a good grip on it and don't let it have the opportunity to kickback!

I think you reversed the colors!

Yup. Green triangle on box/package is the consumer/safety chain,Yellow is full chisel Commercial/Professional chain.

 

[TreePointer]

Just to clear up some confusion...

There is tooth shape--chisel vs. semi-chisel
There is also Low Kickback (safety, green) chain and regular (professional, yellow).

Chisel chain doesn't necessarily mean professional chain. See below:

RSC = chisel, yellow
RSC3 = chisel, green

RMC = semi-chisel, yellow
RMC3 = semi-chisel, green

In .325" pitch Stihl chain, there is a large difference in speed and aggressiveness between RMC3 and RSC.