Chainsaw and Soapstone

[Vic99]

Yesterday I put a downpayment on a Hearthstone Homestead soapstone stove that will vent through my fireplace. Installation is scheduled for early February . . . I can't wait.

I already have a 1/2 cord of seasoned wood, but am new to the cutting game and have only handled an axe. I hope to harvest some wood from my property, but the bulk of it will come from scrounging. I realize that I will have to pay for a cord or so to get me through the rest of this season.

I want to start cutting for next year, so . . .

1) Can anyone recommend a good website for chainsaw basics and safety?

2) What about a decent chainsaw for a beginner that hopes to cut ~4 cords of wood/year? Nothing fancy, just reliable and safe (as far as chainsaws go and all).

A friend that moved away gave me an electric chainsaw which I will practice with on my property. However, I figure that if I scrounge, I'll need a gas-powered chainsaw.

Thanks.

 

[BrotherBart]

If you look through the posts in "The Gear" section of the Forum you will find hour after hour of discussion on the purchase of chainsaws from people that use them a lot.

 

[stangds]

http://www.osha.gov/SLTC/etools/logging/manual/manual.html

lots of good info in there.

 

[Gooserider]

There's lots of discussion on chainsaws here, basically it comes down to a choice between a cheapo "consumer" grade saw, such as a Poulan, or most any other small 16" and under bar saw that you'd find in Harbor Freight or Home Despot, or a slightly larger and more expensive "pro" grade saw such as a Stihl, probably with an 18"+ bar.

The consumer grade saw will be cheap, and good for a few years worth of cutting, but not be worth putting much maintainance into. Use it till it breaks, then toss it and buy another one. The pro grade saw will cost more, but last just about forever if you take care of it. Arguably it might be worth getting a cheapo saw to learn with, then if you decide you're into cutting and have made the worst of your mistakes, to get a pro saw when the first one wears out. Also some folks use a light weight cheapo saw for limbing and light work and then use the heavier pro saw for the serious round cutting.

The other BIG issue is to remember to get your PPE (Personal Protective Equipment) - Chainsaws are DANGEROUS power tools, and the appropriate gear can really help reduce injury if $#!% happens. Minimum is hearing protection and safety glasses, lots of folks go for a combination hard hat / face shield / ear muffs setup. Also good stout boots, preferably with steel toes, and gloves. Chainsaw chaps are highly reccomended. (I just picked up a pair today!) Note that leather is not considered effective protection, you want kevlar that is rated for chainsaw use.

Budget at least an extra $1-200 for PPE if you don't have it already.

As a side note that I thought was interesting - I just got a pair of Stihl chainsaw chaps, and the documentation on them specifically said they were rated for use with GAS chainsaws only, NOT the "Higher torque" electric chainsaws! Suprised me as I've always thought of electric saws as wimpy...

Gooserider

 

[stangds]

the electric chainsaws have much more torque and will not stall out like a gas saw will with the chaps. the chaps tear apart, pulling the strands out wrapping around the clutch/driveshaft.

The chaps are hot, but a really good idea, if you can't afford the chaps, you can't afford the saw. also be very aware of kickback, and how kickback happens, specifically in the top curve of the tip of the bar. it's amazing more people aren't hurt with chainsaws every year, especially cleaning up storm damage.

 

[Sandor]

The chainsaw you need is a Stihl MS-250 or a Husky 350.

Common sense goes a very long way when using either.

Many books available to get you going. Maybe Eric Johnson can suggest the best one.

Or... you can read the manual to the saw. They offer alot of cutting and saftey tips.

 

[stangds]

the electric chainsaws have much more torque and will not stall out like a gas saw will with the chaps. the chaps tear apart, pulling the strands out wrapping around the clutch/driveshaft.

WADR, what the hell are you saying??

the chaps "unraval", and wrap up around the chain/sprocket, clutch/driveshaft, whatever you want to call it. the binding action is what stops the chain from moving. an electric saw has enough torque to keep turning. this is why if chaps have been damaged, they are not repairable.

 

[BrotherBart]

Careful on the name calling of saws. Here is a Poulan that after 15 years of use can rip your car in half.

 

[Hogwildz]

Careful on the name calling of saws. Here is a Poulan that after 15 years of use can rip your car in half.

I have a newer Poulan Wildthing with 18" bar. Its not a Stihl or Husky but gets the job done. And I kept some cash in the bank.

 

[BrotherBart]

Careful on the name calling of saws. Here is a Poulan that after 15 years of use can rip your car in half.

I have a newer Poulan Wildthing with 18" bar. Its not a Stihl or Husky but gets the job done. And I kept some cash in the bank.

At 23 pounds Ole Yaller is so heavy that I find my scrawny old self cutting a lot more with the 16" bar little green Poulan that I originally bought for a limbing saw. For 99 bucks. And that little dude will cut. Not like its big brother, that cost six hundred in 1991, but it gets there eventually with a sharp chain.

 

[Rich M]

This place has a wealth of good information on saws: http://arboristsite.com/index.php

 

[pistonslap]

I have a 16" Poulan that everybody told me not to buy. 2yrs. and at least 15 cords later, it still does the job. I know what you mean about ole yaller, my buddy has one of those old saws and I think it's easier to drag the tree to the saw.

 

[glenng]

1) Can anyone recommend a good website for chainsaw basics and safety?

2) What about a decent chainsaw for a beginner that hopes to cut ~4 cords of wood/year? Nothing fancy, just reliable and safe (as far as chainsaws go and all).

A friend that moved away gave me an electric chainsaw which I will practice with on my property. However, I figure that if I scrounge, I'll need a gas-powered chainsaw.

Thanks.

1 As Rich said Arboristsite.com is a good place for info. They have a Chainsaw specific forum and a Homeowner specific forum.
forrestryforum.com also has a Chainsaw specific forum. I like this site because there is less ego and the folks are a bit mellower.

2 I suggest a high quality chainsaw in the 50cc range for personal firewood cutting. Light powerful , smooth running, easy to handle and durable. Sthil ms260, Husky 346 , Dolmar 5100s. I own/operate a small tree service in western PA. In the past I used Sthil saws, they are great but expensive. Last year I purchased 4 Dolmar saws 2 7900`s(big) and 2 5100`s. The Sthils have a excellent dealer network that can provide great service. The Dolmar dealer network is thin so ordering parts and getting service will be online/mail for a lot of areas. But the 4 Dolmars saws I own have been steller. O maintenence required after 1 year of mostly everyday use. The 5100 is powerful and very smooth running, morso than the equivalent Sthil ms260 . I have never owned Husky saws. I won`t comment on them.

If your on a budget there is nothing wrong with having a Poulan Wildthing. But there is nothing nicer than using quality tools and 1 pro saw may possibly outlive a budget saw 3 times over. It may be cheaper in the long run to own the more exspensive saw. If you are commited to cutting wood for a long time a pro saw may be cheaper. I purchased my 5100`s for $360 each. I say buy the best saw you can afford. Aim for 50cc`s and you will have a powerful saw that is light enough to use all weekend without breaking your back.. Good luck

If you haven`t noticed I am fond of Dolmar saws. The 5100`s are the best small/medium saw I have ever used. I love them. The biggest draw back is service if your not mechanically inclined . But so far my 4 are bullet proof. And my saws cut over 50 chords each per year.

I don`t know a thing about electric saws can`t comment on those.

Glenn G

 

[Vic99]

As usual, you guys do not disappoint.

I've been doing a lot of reading over the last day. Today I have all the safety gear except for the chaps . . . maybe they'll be a sale . . . Christmas Chaps sale.

I'll start with a barely used electric chainsaw that a friend gave me and after I get a good feel, then I'll look harder at gas saws.

Can't wait to get that soapstone stove in early February.

Merry Christmas.

 

[zzr7ky]

Hi -

I've run Stihl and Husky off and on for years... But bough a Dolmar 5100. Next saw if I need one will be a Dolmar. Light and fast. www.amickssuperstore.com My other saws gather dust.

All the best,
Mike P

 

[Vic99]

Excellent!

 

[Turner-n-Burner]

Clownfish,
Bailey's has great prices on chaps, saws, chains, sharpening supplies... www.baileys-online.com (I think)

where exactly are you? I'm in Burlington.

-Dan

 

[DeanBrown3D]

the electric chainsaws have much more torque and will not stall out like a gas saw will with the chaps. the chaps tear apart, pulling the strands out wrapping around the clutch/driveshaft.

WADR, what the hell are you saying??

the chaps "unraval", and wrap up around the chain/sprocket, clutch/driveshaft, whatever you want to call it. the binding action is what stops the chain from moving. an electric saw has enough torque to keep turning. this is why if chaps have been damaged, they are not repairable.

Oh, so you're suggesting that the torque of electric saws requires greater RESPECT (from the standpoint of safety) than does that of gas powered saws.

I'm sorry for not being able to get that out of your original post. Thanx for understanding.

Keep posting.

Stangds's point is that en electric motor has the same amount of torque no matter what the speed. A gasoline motor loses torque as it slows down, allowing it to stall on a pair of chaps rather than just continuing to cut through your leg.

My biggest tip for safety is to keep your eye on the top half of the tip of the bar - don't let it touch anything. And angle the saw away from your head and neck so that if it does kick back it won't hit you there.

Also, if others are around, be careful and don't wave it into their face after finishing a cut. My brother nearly did this to me once.

Show to yourself exactly what a kick back is - with the engine on low speed, jam the saw into a vertical tree with the bar pointing slightly down at the end, get a feel for how its reacts. Then bring the speed up slightly and do it again. Keep doing this until you are controlling the saw at full speed in a full kick back situation, so you know how violent it can be. Angle it to your side of course. A kick back saw can cut into your neck arteries or jugular vein in anm instant and you'll be dead in 10 seconds.

Last thing is if you are going to fell any trees, make sure you know about leaving a hinge to direct the fall, its not just about cutting a wedge out. D Douglas Dent has a good little booklet on falling trees.

DeanB

 

[carpniels]

HI clownfish99,

I started 6 years ago with cutting wood. I got a new Craftsman 42 cc with 16 inch bar for $139. It was great. After 2 years of cutting, I found out you actually need to sharpen a chain. That helped a lot. I used it for years but the trees kept getting bigger (as I got more experienced) and I had to upgrade. I bought a used Husky 359. Best saw I ever used. Sharpen it every talk of gas. I also got into the PPE and own all that is needed.

I also got a pulp hook to move wood and a timberjack. Nice tools and make work easy.

I sold my Craftsman to my brother who is a homeuser. I cut 5 full cords a year so needed a semi pro saw. Now I am looking for a lighter saw for limbing. Wish I had kept the craftsman. Now it will have to be a small light saw (and cheaper too)

Good luck

CarpNiels

 

[Vic99]

Cut a 1/4 cord yesterday with a Remington 16" electric saw. Worked great. Can't believe how quickly it goes through lube oil, though.

Did not fall any trees. Probably will do more bucking and limbing on debris around the yard first. I have a 1/2 acre on a river in Dracut.

Thanks.

 

[colsmith]

I would HIGHLY recommend the book The Harrowsmith Country Life Guide To Wood Heat by Dirk Thomas. We read it a year ago before we got our stove, and are both rereading it almost from cover to cover. We got it from the library. Explains the important aspects of selecting a stove, other relevant tools, chainsawing, protective equipment, splitting, cleaning your chimney, etc. Well written, easy to read, by a guy who's been a woodburner for over 25 years. and has also been a logger, tree surgeon, and commercial firewood cutter, and is a professional chimney sweep in Vermont. Goes into a lot of details on how to safely cut down trees, diagramming where and how to make the cuts, depending on the lean of the tree, how to cut up wood on the ground, etc. We've read numerous books about wood stoves and cutting wood, etc. and this was by far the best.

We scrounge a lot and only have a 14" electric chainsaw, haven't really needed anything else so far, although I am hankering after a bigger gas chainsaw. We sometimes have to leave really big wood behind. Feeling a bit guilty right now because we got about 3.5 cords of wood from a couple on Craigslist, but left behind some big chunks. The guy is now whacking the trunk chunks up with a big maul and wedges so that we can take all the wood. He is almost 20 years older than we are, thus the guilt, he is splitting our wood for us basically, because he wants it all out of his yard. Loading and unloading all those truckloads of wood and chainsawing some of it in our yard has aggravated my carpal tunnel problems, though, so I can't split anything right now. You can bet we gave them small gifts and a Christmas card, though! When scrounging, always be REALLY NICE and you'll get more wood. I am naturally nice, but hubby has to make an effort.