Century Heat FW3000SD question

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gibbonfd2

gibbonfd2

New Member
Jul 19, 2017
22
Nebraska
Ok so I bought a used century heat stove. It needed some work which I thought I could do myself pretty easily. I noticed that the baffle plate looked pretty rough but was not sure how to replace it. According to SBI help desk the baffle in my stove is SS and needs to be replace by a vermiculite baffle. Has anyone done this before? I asked them for support but have not heard anything back on that yet. Here's a few picture of the baffle and air tubes.
Century Heat FW3000SD questionCentury Heat FW3000SD question


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Does the baffle just lift out? If so it should be able to be used as guide to cut out a new one out of heavy stainless or vermiculite board. Tube #2 looks pretty warped too.
 
Pull the cotter pins out of the tubes on the left ans the tubes should come out then you can get the baffle out. I would order new tubes and a baffle. If you can find out what thickness the vermiculite board needs to be you could probably find that cheaper elsewhere and cut it to match the metal one
 
So as I said I got the baffle out. Here are a few pictures of the baffle also I don't believe there is suppose to be a hole in the middleCentury Heat FW3000SD questionCentury Heat FW3000SD questionCentury Heat FW3000SD question


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Whew, that poor thing was rode hard. It is toast.
 
That pic makes the stove look right up against the wall. What is the wall made of?
 
EatenByLimestone said:
That pic makes the stove look right up against the wall. What is the wall made of?
Click to expand...
It isn't if you look you can see a space behind the hearth board and one behind the chimney. So it is spaced away
 
The stove does appear spaced away somewhat. The surface behind the stove appears to be some type of corrugated metal that appears to provide cooling and reduced clearances.
 
It is not right up against the wall the manual calls for 12" of space at the back of stove there is 13 and 16 for the chimney I built the wall with a 1" air gap and tin over the top of that. I used 1/2" drywall spaced out. Not the prettiest thing but it worked and it's what I had. Century Heat FW3000SD questionCentury Heat FW3000SD questionCentury Heat FW3000SD questionCentury Heat FW3000SD question


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Nice job. The only problem I can see in your photos is you do not maintain a 1" air gap at those sections that rest completely on the drywall, since that drywall is atop of the other drywall.
 
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If the stove clearance exceeds the requirement even by an inch you are fine. VirginiaIron is correct though. In order for the rear wall metal to be a proper shield there should have been a 1" gap a the bottom and top of the corrugated metal that is unobstructed by the sheet rock spacers from top to bottom and cement board or other non-combustible material should have been used. That assures proper ventilation behind the shield. One easy way to create the non-combustible spacers is to use 3" x 5' x 1/2" strips of cement board doubled up and vertically secured to the studs.
 
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begreen said:
If the stove clearance exceeds the requirement even by an inch you are fine. VirginiaIron is correct though. In order for the rear wall metal to be a proper shield there should have been a 1" gap a the bottom and top of the corrugated metal that is unobstructed by the sheet rock spacers from top to bottom and cement board or other non-combustible material should have been used. That assures proper ventilation behind the shield. One easy way to create the non-combustible spacers is to use 3" x 5' x 1/2" strips of cement board doubled up and vertically secured to the studs.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input I will have to look into revamping it before it gets to cold and I start running it more


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The airflow behind the shield is what keeps the combustible wall behind it cool. The spacers (or firring strips) need to be non-combustible behind the stove.
Century Heat FW3000SD question
 

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Hey i see that you revamped your stove i just picked up the same model used and i noticed its missing a secondary burn tube the little bracket that holds it in broke off so he musta said f it and took the tube out. Im gonna order a new tube from century my question is are these tubes suppose to be positioned at certain degrees of a angle? Also how do you like your stove as far as heat output?
 
VirginiaIron said:
Rather than lose the 3" with rock board can someone use a threaded lag bolt with one nut holding the surface off of the wall. My thoughts are the convected air would certainly cool the attached metal lags to prevent overheating of the attached studs.

http://www.bingapis.com/images/search?q=Double+Threaded+Lag+Bolts&FORM=RESTAB
Click to expand...
Not following the 3" loss. The 1" gap and 1/2" cement board would only take up 1.5". The pins would work as long as there are spacers to maintain the required 1" spacing behind the heat shield.

Note that the clearance to combustibles is measured to the studs or drywall behind the shield, not to the finished non-combustible surface of the wall shield.
 
Prochargedz said:
Hey i see that you revamped your stove i just picked up the same model used and i noticed its missing a secondary burn tube the little bracket that holds it in broke off so he musta said f it and took the tube out. Im gonna order a new tube from century my question is are these tubes suppose to be positioned at certain degrees of a angle? Also how do you like your stove as far as heat output?
Click to expand...

I have this stove but the newer version, no cotter pins. The tube holes all point forward, the same direction. If you look at the pic in the first post, they all point forward also. Call or email SBI. They are very helpful and responsive.

https://www.century-heating.com/en/contact-us/

Cant answer the heat output as I just installed it and its 100 degree outside now ;)

Its reassuring to know these stoves can last for many years given their price point.
 
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