Century Hearth FW300010

[drv00691]

Hi All, This is my first time posting....I have been here as a guest for a while and I just bought this stove becuase it was the best deal I could find! I also got the blower for $30.00 last night....I am comming from a very old Richmond Wood stove. I haven't been burning wood for long so bare with me.....I have not installed the new stove yet and I have some installation and other questions:

1. It is a 6' flue and that's what is attached to my existing stove but how do I connect it to the new stove? There doesn't seem to be any screws on the new stove. Do I use the Hi heat sillicone to seal it?

2. Where do I put the magnetic thermometer? The one I have now is on the stove pipe going into the chiminy and I try and keep the temp between 350 ad 450. Unfortunatly, I have to baby sit the stove every 10 to 15 min becuase it burns through the wood so fast(I am using seasoned mixed oak/Birch)

3. I know there are others with this stove. Can anyone tell me what the burn time is with this stove? 8-10 hours?

4. How well does it burn overnight and how many sticks do you put in before you go to bed?

All in all it looks to be well built and im sure it will be alot more efficent than the Richmond Wood stove. I've been through a full cord of wood so far using the stove part time.....


Sorry for the long post but I am new to the newer stoves.....

Thanks in advance.....

 

[TexasAgs]

Your stove is basically a DUTCHWEST Plate Steel CDW300007

(broken link removed to http://www.vermontcastings.com/content/products/productdetails.cfm?id=322)

I just bought one as well But I am not yet using it

Let me know how it is working for you...

 

[drv00691]

Sure will let ya know how it is! I am hoping that it will let me at least sit down for an hour to relax! My current stove I get mabye 15-20 before I have to be back at it!

 

[Michael6268]

I think 8-10 hours is pushing it. I would say 4-8 tops.

 

[drv00691]

Thanks Michael6268 So it will at least keep the house warm until morning then? Any ideas on how to put stove pipe on the collar? i.e Sheet metal screws, hi heat silicone??? I am a bit confused becuase there are no holes for screws in the collar.....How about the magnetic thermometer? Should I keep it on the stove pipe or directly on the stove? Does it make a diffrence where it is?

 

[Michael6268]

Stove pipe should be inserted into the collar as far as it will go. Crimped end into the collar. It should go in a minimum of "past the crimps" but you should be able to get it all the way to snug up to the large bulge past the crimps. Code requires 3 sheet metal screws at each joint including the collar. You would have to drill the collar with a good steel drill bit to make holes. At the joints just use self taping screws. Pesonally if the pipe fits in the collar snug and you bottom it out in the collar, I wouldnt bother with the screws at the collar (might be required if you are having it inspected). If you end up with any larger gaps in the pipes you can seal with furnace cement. Magentic thermometer can go on the pipe or on the top of the stove. There is about a 100 degree diffference between the top of mine and the pipe. I personally like to monitor the "stove temp" so I keep it on the top of the stove.

 

[drv00691]

Ok, so the stove pipe is ok for the magentic thermometer and if the stove pipe fits snugly into the collar then I don't need the screws? Thanks again Now how about temp range? Should I just stick with the "Burn Zone" indicator(between 300 and 550) rule?

 

[Michael6268]

Again on the flue collar screws, by code they may state you need them at the collar, although I have never seen a stove manual state that they are needed at the collar. I would use your own judgement on it. If you have a "straight shot up" or almost straight up, it would be fine. If you have a lot of bends and horizontal runs prior to exiting, it wouldnt be a bad idea to put a couple of screws in the collar. My stove goes straight up to the ceiling support box. I screwed the pipe sections together, but not the collar, because the only way my pipe is coming out of the collar is if the floor sinks 3 inches! On the stove temp, if you are using it on the pipe the 300 to 550 is a good range, but keep in mind that the 550 range is about 650 stove temp, which should be acceptable for that stove, but I dont like running much higher than that.

 

[Gooserider]

I don't have specific data on that stove, but pipe temps should be in the 350-500*F range most of the time. What you really want to look at is getting secondary burn, and finding the "sweet spot" where you can cut the air way back and still keep that burn going. This will take practice as every install is different, even with the same model stove. When you find it, that is also where you will get the longest burns, especially if you stuff the firebox.

Another point to remember is that the paint on new stoves will take several burns to get rid of the "New stove stink" - you want to start with very small fires and gradually make them bigger, letting them burn out and have the stove cool back down between each one. If you can, you'll probably want a window open at least part time as the fumes can be pretty noxious.

However I'm sure you'll find that you burn much less wood and get longer times between loadings with the new stove. Read up in some of the other threads about the "fire cycle" and learn how to work with it for best results.

Gooserider

 

[jamiebowden]

So how is this stove working out for you? Does it burn well? Do you regret buying it?

I'm considering purchasing a FW300010 from Home Depot in Canada. I've noticed that a lot of the more expensive stoves are just rebranded and appear to be exactly the same (minus fancy metal and stuff). Are they just as good?

We also were considering the Napoleon 1400 and the Osburn 2200.

Thanks

Jamie

 

[EatenByLimestone]

I picked up the smaller version at the Lowes sale and am pretty happy with it.

 

[MichaelS]

I am very happy with the one I bought. Saved me a bundle on Electricity.

 

[Codeman812]

I used this stove to heat my house all this season. I bought an adapter from Home Depot for the collar and used furnace cement to seal it. I found out, after going through too much wood, that it is best to turn the air down. Open all the way to start a fire or when adding to a few coals and you need the air. 3/4 when adding wood to coals left for an hour or so. 1/2 puts out pretty good heat without too much going up the chimney. I never close it all the way unless it really starts taking off. I put my magnetic thermometer center of the lower part of the stove top. I used to do about 18 inches up on the flue but I found stove top is a better indicator of heat going to the room. This stove will definitely run through the wood if the air is not cut back. I personally like this stove and think it has done a good job heating my 2500 sq.ft. house built in 1860, hit or miss insulation and single pane windows downstairs. Saved a huge amount in gas, and saved almost $100 in electricity one month. Some other variables were in play with the electricity savings but the stove definitely helped. I need a bigger stove to heat the main area of my home, so I am looking at cast irons for that. The Century will be relocated to the kitchen area and used part time then, I am sure it will really add needed heat to that area of my house very well. I hope I answered some questions for you. Let me know if I can help anymore. I am a newbie this being my first year heating with wood. You definitely came to the right place as there are all kinds of great people that will help out.

Hi All, This is my first time posting....I have been here as a guest for a while and I just bought this stove becuase it was the best deal I could find! I also got the blower for $30.00 last night....I am comming from a very old Richmond Wood stove. I haven't been burning wood for long so bare with me.....I have not installed the new stove yet and I have some installation and other questions:

1. It is a 6' flue and that's what is attached to my existing stove but how do I connect it to the new stove? There doesn't seem to be any screws on the new stove. Do I use the Hi heat sillicone to seal it?

2. Where do I put the magnetic thermometer? The one I have now is on the stove pipe going into the chiminy and I try and keep the temp between 350 ad 450. Unfortunatly, I have to baby sit the stove every 10 to 15 min becuase it burns through the wood so fast(I am using seasoned mixed oak/Birch)

3. I know there are others with this stove. Can anyone tell me what the burn time is with this stove? 8-10 hours?

4. How well does it burn overnight and how many sticks do you put in before you go to bed?

All in all it looks to be well built and im sure it will be alot more efficent than the Richmond Wood stove. I've been through a full cord of wood so far using the stove part time.....


Sorry for the long post but I am new to the newer stoves.....

Thanks in advance.....

 

[elkimmeg]

The stove being installed in the donor program this Saturday is a Century 27000 slightly smaller the the 3000. Also consider the Englander stoves. These stoves are budget stoves made pretty good for their function. They heat decently have a blower option. One could do a lot worse purchasing a used stove an end up with junk. % year warranty I bought mine for $288 season ending clearance at Home depot I could have purchased an Englander nc-13 for $325 about the same stoves. Even if you only get 5 years out of them you already saved 4 times the money they cost in enegry savings probably more. You get a chance to learn what it takes to opperate it and it pays for it self many time over if you want to move up

 

[BrotherBart]

You get a chance to learn what it takes to opperate it and it pays for it self many time over if you want to move up

What you mean "move up"? This is the only way you can move up from a 30-NC Elk.

 

[elkimmeg]

Move up in heating capacity FW 2700 = NC-13 the move up would be to the NC-30.. Most BTUs for the buck and cleanest. No arguement here BB

Never once have I dissed your choice, but applaud your wisdom for making it. And Made in USA. Now if you bought a Vogelzang piece of crap, all bets are off

I know some of my suggestions cost you more money but you never burned less wood for more BTU than when you followed my advice.
Sorry if it cost more but the effeciency will make it up.. Plus you have an added layer of safety you did not have before.

BTW take care of the misses, mine is my best friend in the world. Keep her warm

 

[EatenByLimestone]

My 2700 only cost $242 out the door. It's already paid for itself.

A tip for the donor program install. The way the bricks sit on the top, they leave a small gap on each side of the tube that feeds the secondary. I found better performance when I set a third firebrick on top of the secondary feed tube so it covers the gaps on each side. The brick insulates and keeps the secondary air hot while keeping some smoke from finding a shorter route up the chimney.

Matt

 

[elkimmeg]

Limestone thanks for the tip I'm going to print it out In general hoe did the 2700 preform did you get the blower?

 

[EatenByLimestone]

Not yet. I'm thinking seriously about trying it though. When I picked up the stove I was so thrilled about the price I didn't quite think about accessories.

One other thing, the stove puts a lot of heat out the sides. I'd add a few more inches of side clearance if possible. This summer I'm going to look for a few 5 gal Gerry (sp) cans like the old WWII surplus ones we use for gas. One filled with water and parked on each side will help store the heat. I find the stove burns a little better with some ash built up in the bottom. It's a nice little stove and the glass stays clean. It takes a little playing to figure it out, but it burns etremely clean.

My family loves watching the fire and the wife likes to feed it. She felt the cat stove was too coplicated to play with.

Matt