Here's a ton of boring background, so feel free to skip down to where I wrote "STOVES RULE!" Our house is vertically L-shaped on a steep hillside with the bottom floor being about 1000 sq. ft. and the upper part being another 1,500 sq. ft. The living room and kitchen are on top of the lower floor and the bedrooms go back into the hillside down a hallway with ground under them. The stove is located in the middle of the downstairs at the stairs going up to the living room/kitchen/bedrooms hallway. The heat basically goes up the stairs and our current stove does a pretty good job of keeping it hot up there, except the bedrooms, but I think you'd have to get box fans going and really work to heat those off of the stove. Our yearly temp averages are 39-67F. If you like seasons, this is not the place for you. We also have 250 overcast days per year. During the gray season (November to June) the stove is the only thing that keeps me sane. It's usually just chilly enough with the constant cold winds down from the Bering Sea that I will light my last fire of the year on Father's Day. We burn Shore Pine and Sitka Spruce because they fall down all over our property during frequent windstorms here during the warmer periods and I squirrel away Alder and Fir, if I can get it for cold snaps. It's rarely that cold, so we're usually burning low BTU wood and keeping the flue hot to lower creosote formation. We've also got a really long chimney, so the draw gets crazy.
Right now we've got a beautiful red porcelain 1989 Pacific Energy Spectrum D-Series. It's rated at 89,000 BTUs and 1,800 square ft. North-South, I think you call it. It's been put through the ringer...and it's time to retire. At our last house we had a Non-EPA Regency East-West I never particularly cared for. It was hard to start and one time a visitor went to stoke it and the log rolled back out and smashed the glass. We had a Fisher Papa Bear growing up and man, what I wouldn't give to light one more fire in that thing.
There's no way I can afford a new PE, though, and...they don't deliver. The only stove dealer in town sells Lopi and he couldn't get me out the door lower than $4,000.
STOVES RULE!
As such, I'm having a very hard time figuring out what new stove to get. Lowe's has a bomb deal now on a 2,500 square foot rated, the Master Forge WS110 which is $560 delivered. From my research it seems identical to the Cleveland Huron H110, though they have wildly different BTU numbers (49,138 vs. 80,000). They both have 2.5 cu. ft. fireboxes and can take 18" wood. I was also looking at the Vogelzang VG2520-P which boasts 112,800 BTUs, a 2.5 cu. ft. firebox and can take 21" wood. I was also toying with an Ashley 3,200 square footer which claims to do 152,000 BTU and has an oversize firebox in the hopes that maybe I could heat those far-flung bedrooms a bit. It's also my understanding that the square footage rating and BTUs are just kind of made up. Note also, that my BTUs are going to be lower no matter what I buy because I burn low quality (but free and easy to get) wood.
I love stoves. I don't want a turd. Money is only getting tighter. There's also the potential cost of some chimney repair. A certified technician said it looks fine, but I'm going to get a second opinion because I don't like how it looks. Usually those guys try to sell you a whole new chimney every time they sweep...
Therein lies my problem.
I've been thinking about dipping into my savings to get either a Century FW2900 which is 75,000BTU/2,900 sq. ft. rated and has a 2.4' firebox and says it can take 20" wood, but 16" is preferable.
The Englander Blue Ridge 300L(P) also has a 2.4 cu. ft. firebox, is rated for 75,000 BTUs, but only 2,100 sq. ft. It's an E-W, and it also says it can take 20" wood.
These are both lower BTU rated than our PE.
These are more than double the cost of the Master Forge and the same price as the Vogelzang, but unlike those two they are made in North America, which is important to me for safety and durability. We've got a lot of kids running around, hence the lack of money.
It'd also be nice to have good support instead of some fly-by-night import company- I've worked with PE before replacing the baffle, firebrick, gaskets, and insulation and they were pretty helpful. The only annoying thing is they only ship to dealers. So I had to have them ship it to a dealer that lives hundreds of miles away and then have that dealer ship it to me. I'd like a company that could mail me a part to my door if I needed it.
They've both got the lower air control like our PE which I prefer, whereas the cheaper stoves all have the slider up top. I think it's easier to look up and manage the "fire cloud" as my friends call it without your arm in the way.
Again, we come into this BTU/Square Foot drama. On paper, the Englander couldn't heat our house even though the BTUs and firebox are the same size? Both of them are lower BTU-rated than our PE, but rated for significantly more square foot? Would they heat less on the whole? On paper our PE can't heat the house, either.
I like the Century more. It's a N-S loader, and it sits taller than the other stoves at 34" high vs the 31" high Englander. The cheaper stoves are below 30". They'll never match our red PE in style.
The Englander does have cool mountains on the glass, though.
We've also got an extra long chimney and I had to install a damper to help our PE keep it under control. If anyone has any sense of any of these stoves being able to close the air off better than the others, let me know.
If anyone knows if any of these stoves do better with softwoods, that'd be cool, too.
I'm curious if any of these stoves do air intakes or baffles differently than each other. Our PE has constant "Boost Air" from below the door, then a single sliding lever on the side that controls the heated "Air Wash" intake from above the door simultaneously with a rear air intake for the baffle.
I've kind of narrowed it down to these options, unless anyone else has any recommendations in the under $1,200 delivered range.
Even if you don't have any input- I hope this was at least a fun read.
I spent over and hour writing it, but I've reached the point where I'm so tired it's a ramble.
Right now we've got a beautiful red porcelain 1989 Pacific Energy Spectrum D-Series. It's rated at 89,000 BTUs and 1,800 square ft. North-South, I think you call it. It's been put through the ringer...and it's time to retire. At our last house we had a Non-EPA Regency East-West I never particularly cared for. It was hard to start and one time a visitor went to stoke it and the log rolled back out and smashed the glass. We had a Fisher Papa Bear growing up and man, what I wouldn't give to light one more fire in that thing.
There's no way I can afford a new PE, though, and...they don't deliver. The only stove dealer in town sells Lopi and he couldn't get me out the door lower than $4,000.
STOVES RULE!
As such, I'm having a very hard time figuring out what new stove to get. Lowe's has a bomb deal now on a 2,500 square foot rated, the Master Forge WS110 which is $560 delivered. From my research it seems identical to the Cleveland Huron H110, though they have wildly different BTU numbers (49,138 vs. 80,000). They both have 2.5 cu. ft. fireboxes and can take 18" wood. I was also looking at the Vogelzang VG2520-P which boasts 112,800 BTUs, a 2.5 cu. ft. firebox and can take 21" wood. I was also toying with an Ashley 3,200 square footer which claims to do 152,000 BTU and has an oversize firebox in the hopes that maybe I could heat those far-flung bedrooms a bit. It's also my understanding that the square footage rating and BTUs are just kind of made up. Note also, that my BTUs are going to be lower no matter what I buy because I burn low quality (but free and easy to get) wood.
I love stoves. I don't want a turd. Money is only getting tighter. There's also the potential cost of some chimney repair. A certified technician said it looks fine, but I'm going to get a second opinion because I don't like how it looks. Usually those guys try to sell you a whole new chimney every time they sweep...
Therein lies my problem.
I've been thinking about dipping into my savings to get either a Century FW2900 which is 75,000BTU/2,900 sq. ft. rated and has a 2.4' firebox and says it can take 20" wood, but 16" is preferable.
The Englander Blue Ridge 300L(P) also has a 2.4 cu. ft. firebox, is rated for 75,000 BTUs, but only 2,100 sq. ft. It's an E-W, and it also says it can take 20" wood.
These are both lower BTU rated than our PE.
These are more than double the cost of the Master Forge and the same price as the Vogelzang, but unlike those two they are made in North America, which is important to me for safety and durability. We've got a lot of kids running around, hence the lack of money.

They've both got the lower air control like our PE which I prefer, whereas the cheaper stoves all have the slider up top. I think it's easier to look up and manage the "fire cloud" as my friends call it without your arm in the way.
Again, we come into this BTU/Square Foot drama. On paper, the Englander couldn't heat our house even though the BTUs and firebox are the same size? Both of them are lower BTU-rated than our PE, but rated for significantly more square foot? Would they heat less on the whole? On paper our PE can't heat the house, either.
I like the Century more. It's a N-S loader, and it sits taller than the other stoves at 34" high vs the 31" high Englander. The cheaper stoves are below 30". They'll never match our red PE in style.

We've also got an extra long chimney and I had to install a damper to help our PE keep it under control. If anyone has any sense of any of these stoves being able to close the air off better than the others, let me know.
If anyone knows if any of these stoves do better with softwoods, that'd be cool, too.
I'm curious if any of these stoves do air intakes or baffles differently than each other. Our PE has constant "Boost Air" from below the door, then a single sliding lever on the side that controls the heated "Air Wash" intake from above the door simultaneously with a rear air intake for the baffle.
I've kind of narrowed it down to these options, unless anyone else has any recommendations in the under $1,200 delivered range.
Even if you don't have any input- I hope this was at least a fun read.
