Castle Serenity Won't stay lit

[rsh678]

My stove lights then after about 10 minutes shuts down and with low temperature. Its not a pellet feed problem. I noticed that in Diagnostics the NTC1 is not black so I moved the wires to the other connectors, still doesn't engage. Is there a part that needs to be replaced? Also, someone mentioned a switch on the right side that needs to be reset so this won't keep happening. Can someone tell me where this switch is or if this is a potential solution? Thanks

 

[ARC]

First thing I would try is switching to second Proof Of Fire switch. The second switch is already installed at factory just switch wires. Does the fire look good, or is it small and weak? First rule of trouble shooting is Clean, Clean, Clean. How clean is your stove/venting?

 

[ARC]

If switching wires on Proof of Fire switch does not fix the try "jumping" the Proof of Fire switch. Unplug stove, unplug both wires from Proof of Fire switch connect them together with a paper clip or jumper wire tape connection do not let them touch body of stove. Plug stove back in see if it stove works. This is just for test purposes if stove runs then switches most likely bad or stove just not getting hot enough. Do not leave stove like this get new switches if necessary.

 

[rsh678]

If switching wires on Proof of Fire switch does not fix the try "jumping" the Proof of Fire switch. Unplug stove, unplug both wires from Proof of Fire switch connect them together with a paper clip or jumper wire tape connection do not let them touch body of stove. Plug stove back in see if it stove works. This is just for test purposes if stove runs then switches most likely bad or stove just not getting hot enough. Do not leave stove like this get new switches if necessary.



View attachment 325670

I switched the wires to the other connection and it doesn't seem to make a difference. In both cases it is now starting up but then only stays on for 1-3 hours. Sometimes there are unburned pellets in the fire pot, sometimes it is empty. If I jump the proof of fire switch is it OK to let it run for 3+ hours to see if it solves the problem? The flame is very low even on level 2. I feel like the auger is not consistently turning. When I see the flame getting lower often times the auger is no longer turning but the motor is definitely running and if I tighten up the set screw AGAIN it starts turning again. Could it be as simple as a set screw problem?

 

[johneh]

I switched the wires to the other connection and it doesn't seem to make a difference. In both cases it is now starting up but then only stays on for 1-3 hours. Sometimes there are unburned pellets in the fire pot, sometimes it is empty. If I jump the proof of fire switch is it OK to let it run for 3+ hours to see if it solves the problem? The flame is very low even on level 2. I feel like the auger is not consistently turning. When I see the flame getting lower often times the auger is no longer turning but the motor is definitely running and if I tighten up the set screw AGAIN it starts turning again. Could it be as simple as a set screw problem?

In a word "Yes"

 

[rsh678]

In a word "Yes"

Sorry, yes to letting it run for 3+ hours or yes to the set screw issue? If it is a set screw issue what is the solution? Do I replace just the set screw or do I have to replace the whole auger casing that the set Screw screws into? Not sure why I have to keep fiddling with it!

 

[johneh]

Yes to the set screw. If it were me I'd use a little
Thread locker to keep the screw from becoming loose.

Red or blue, we’ve got the right threadlocker for you!

New to threadlockers? Everything you need to know about types, application and removal.

www.loctiteproducts.com

 

[ARC]

Sorry, yes to letting it run for 3+ hours or yes to the set screw issue?

Yes to the set screw could be the problem, yes to the letting it run 3 hours if you are present .

Do I replace just the set screw or do I have to replace the whole auger casing that the set Screw screws into? Not sure why I have to keep fiddling with it!

Are you saying you can tighten the set screw and it runs fine for a while then starts feeding poorly and you have to tighten screw again?

If you can remove the set screw and check to see if threads are stripped/damaged. If screw is not damaged and you still have to keep tightening it then the threads in the auger could be damaged. you might be able to use a tap and go to a slightly bigger screw or you will have to replace the auger itself ($50). First I would remove auger check for pellet jam and check both upper and lower bearings if one of the bearings is bad it could be creating enough drag to slow down feeding or make set screw slip.

 

[ARC]

If you keep having to tighten the set screw then that is most likely the problem not the low limit switch. Have you tried emptying your hopper auger could be jammed with fines and dust?

I know these trouble shooting guide and auger video are not your stove but comfortbilt and castle use the same auger system.

 

[rsh678]

Yes to the set screw could be the problem, yes to the letting it run 3 hours if you are present .


Are you saying you can tighten the set screw and it runs fine for a while then starts feeding poorly and you have to tighten screw again?

If you can remove the set screw and check to see if threads are stripped/damaged. If screw is not damaged and you still have to keep tightening it then the threads in the auger could be damaged. you might be able to use a tap and go to a slightly bigger screw or you will have to replace the auger itself ($50). First I would remove auger check for pellet jam and check both upper and lower bearings if one of the bearings is bad it could be creating enough drag to slow down feeding or make set screw slip.

 

[rsh678]

View attachment 325898

Does that look mangled to you or is it supposed to look like this?

 

[ARC]

Does that look mangled to you

Hard to tell from picture does look like it has been slipping might be able to tell better from the motor shaft if it is scraped up it has been slipping, look at the threads do they look damaged?

When tightening it does it tighten then feel a small pop and you can tighten again, that means threads are stripped?

Did you empty hopper yet?

 

[ARC]

 

[rsh678]

Hard to tell from picture does look like it has been slipping might be able to tell better from the motor shaft if it is scraped up it has been slipping, look at the threads do they look damaged?

When tightening it does it tighten then feel a small pop and you can tighten again, that means threads are stripped?

Did you empty hopper yet?

I replaced the set screw and the stove ran for 2.5 hours then the flame went out but the pellets continued to drop!

 

[ARC]

the stove ran for 2.5 hours

How well did the stove run? Still sounds blockage or bad bearings, weak motor.

 

[rsh678]

It’s not a blockage because I emptied it out cleaned it out vacuumed it out a few times thinking that was the problem originally. The fire is very low and the pellets are coming down inconsistently. Now I’m thinking it might be the auger itself. The auger motor sounds fine If that’s any indication of motor health.

 

[ARC]

Did you watch auger trouble shooting video above, empty hopper detach motor see if auger turns by hand, run motor while not attached to stove.

 

[johneh]

Just my own curiosity what is the heat output set at when the stove goes out?

 

[ARC]

Now I’m thinking it might be the auger itself. The auger motor sounds fine If that’s any indication of motor health.

A motor going bad will act like the problem you are having, if you listen closely you might hear the motor strain/hum louder the usual.
That said a auger bearing going bad or something stuck in auger tube will do the same thing. Better to check the tube and bearings first as the bearings are $6 an $8 compared to the motor $119.

 

[ARC]

Guess I should ask did you check to see if your pellet drop chute was clear, some time pellets bridge and plug it.

 

[rsh678]

A motor going bad will act like the problem you are having, if you listen closely you might hear the motor strain/hum louder the usual.
That said a auger bearing going bad or something stuck in auger tube will do the same thing. Better to check the tube and bearings first as the bearings are $6 an $8 compared to the motor $119.

I think I solved the problem. I took the auger motor off one more time and repositioned it to make sure the flat side was facing the new set screw. I also emptied the chute one more time, vacuumed it out one more time and adjusted the exhaust voltage down by 5 for each setting. The flame is now higher and it hasn't gone out for 2 days! However, I did notice that different amounts of pellets are falling into the burn pot, sometimes a lot, sometimes only a few at a time. I also noticed that the pellets (Hamer Hot Ones) I have are not uniform in size at all and I am wondering if that is causing the issue. Some pieces are very small and some are long. I have used these pellets for years in my Whitfield with no problem but maybe the Castle is a bit more finicky about pellet size? Your thoughts?

 

[ARC]

Your thoughts?

Sounds like you got it figured out. My pellets are close to equal size and they feed the way you said your unequal ones feed. Some times a few and then some times more. So yes unequal size could exaggerate the amount that feeds at one time. Also if two long they can also get sideways in the pellet drop chute. You did a good job trouble shooting your problem, stay warm.