The swing tabs on my Castine's secondary baffle are riveted on, not bolted. And I found over the past three years that, yes, the baffle is "loose" fitting, meaning I can nudge it and it moves. That movement is because the gasketing that is toward the front, on the baffle "steps", is mostly gone. Its a cheap flat gasket and early in its life just came loose and fell into the firebox. I just stuffed some Kaewool in these two sections, right and left, with a butter knife. That snugged up the baffle, and I don't have secondary air coming into the firebox at these two points instead of through the holes, where it is supposed to.
That said, I am going to have to replace this stainless steel secondary plate next summer in the off-burning season. Mine is rusted badly, and small pieces are falling off each time I run a wire brush over it. Such is the saga of burning beach harvested firewood, I presume. In my case, I have no choice, its the only wood available out here where there are no growing trees. Changing it once every 4 years I can live with. I am not too happy that Jotul wants nearly $300 for it, though. With a good piece of stainless, one can be bent to the correct shape on an aviation metal break. The holes would be no problem to drill. I plan to buy a new one, but take the old and make a pattern and try it. Nothing to loose. May even go with a slightly thicker piece of stainless.
On another subject, two years ago I installed the "euro" primary inlet plate on my stove, replacing the "usa" plate. I think my stove runs better with it, as it has more airflow potential through it. I still plan to take my old "usa" plate and modify it, too, by putting several more smaller holes in it.
One other thing: Since the stove can only be loaded with wood east/west, I found long ago that it isn't easy to get the fire going well from a cold start, UNLESS I put down a couple of pieces of short (6" long) of fatwood on the floor of the stove laying north south. Then the subsequent longer (I cut my wood at 16") load on top of these sacrificial pieces of fatwood. The end result is the primary air, when the primary lever is full open to the right, can rush across the entire bottom of the wood load, and my fire gets going much faster. I also purposely leave a 1/2" of airspace at the back of the stove so the burn can run up the back before it runs across the top toward the front where the exhaust outlet leaves the firebox. Then I had an idea: why keep using sacrificial wood? I would like to use two cast iron rounds, or squares, perhaps 1/2" stock, 6" long and just lay them on the firebox floor. Easy to take out when removing ashes and put back in when done. Be like andirons, just no vertical portion. Ceramic blocks would work equally as well.
I'm also looking real hard at one of the new Jotul F55's, or would consider another stove similar sized that has the same close rear clearances. The F55 would sit exactly where my Castine is without any change needed to my existing stack or hearth pad.
Sorry to go off topic here. By the way, its -38 F and the wind is blowing at 23 mph. Puts the wind chill at about -58 F. The F400 is working hard heating my 1300 sq ft ranch. It sure beats having to pay $6.13 per gallon for home heating fuel.
Stay warm, mates.