Can I save this flue?

[THEMAN]

I'm getting my Buck 91 this weekend and have a few questions regarding the install. I would like to save the flue, if at all possible. The stove has a 8in flue opening and my existing fireplace damper is 26 1/2"Lx5"H. On one side of the damper handle its +/- 14" and 12 1/2" on the other. The handle pivots to the side and up out of the way(see pic's). I am going to do a direct connect for now and will install a liner later when $ is available. For now however, I would like to simply do a direct connect through the damper if possible. I have two Immediate questions will 8" ss flex ovalize to fit in the 5" high damper? If so how flexible is the SS flex pipe? because the damper handle is in the center and the SS pipe will have to bend soon after it attaches to the top of the stove to clear the handle. The damper handle is not quite centered as you could tell from the dimensions stated above but its only 2" off center so will the SS pipe be able to make that bend and fit through the damper opening? I want to save the damper because I plan on taking the insert with me when I move and would like to be able to simply remove the insert and have the fireplace as it was. The only option that I see is an offset box that I read about in another post recently, but those are $140.00 and I still have to buy the SS pipe. I'm trying to not spend money I really don't have right now. Any solutions or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

[btuser]

If you ovalize 8" flex you don't get 8", probably closer to 6". Cut that flue buddy, or buy the box.

 

[oconnor]

You should be able to unbolt the linkage and remove the damper plate - that would remove most of the restriction. Then a couple 30* elbows may get you around the stubs that are left. Cutting the linkage off completely and securing the damper open would be restorable if you did need to use the fireplace as a fireplace in the future. It would take some welding, but would be do-able.

You can alos order flex sections that go from round to rectangle and back to round to allow passing thru the restriction.

With the direct connect set up, don't forget to allow for building a block off plate to fully cover the opening to the flue - not just plugging it with insulation, but a full steel plate. A quick search of this site will get you lots of posts on how to build one.

 

[THEMAN]

You should be able to unbolt the linkage and remove the damper plate - that would remove most of the restriction. Then a couple 30* elbows may get you around the stubs that are left. Cutting the linkage off completely and securing the damper open would be restorable if you did need to use the fireplace as a fireplace in the future. It would take some welding, but would be do-able.

You can alos order flex sections that go from round to rectangle and back to round to allow passing thru the restriction.

With the direct connect set up, don't forget to allow for building a block off plate to fully cover the opening to the flue - not just plugging it with insulation, but a full steel plate. A quick search of this site will get you lots of posts on how to build one.

Yeah I already have plans on building the block off plate, as far as the linkage goes there is nothing to unbolt on it( see side view pic). The other thing I was thinking was getting a reducer from 8"-6" This would minimize the amount I would have to ovalize the the SS pipe to get it to go through the flue although this will restrict the draft that will already not be functioning at optimum due to being a direct connect, and I still have to contend with getting around the damper.

 

[Fsappo]

Just cut the flue out. You can always install a Lymance damper down the road if you need to go back to a regular fireplace. You have a very pretty finger by the way.

 

[theheatelement]

Just awful....

Just cut the flue out. You can always install a Lymance damper down the road if you need to go back to a regular fireplace. You have a very pretty finger by the way.

 

[53flyer]

I'm the least knowledgeable one on this thread so all I want to say is that I just looked at some duraflex SS 6" pipe at a stove dealer and the pipe wasn't very conducive to being "ovalized". By ovalize, I'm assuming you're talking about squishing the pipe together between your hands (or by some other means). Anyway, while it's obviously possible to do (if enough force is applied) it would most likely cause damage and possible cracking on the long, narrow sides of the oval shape. Just my 1.5 cents...

Good Luck.

Off topic- I actually have a few chimney liner issues I'm getting ready to "spring" on the forum in hopes of getting some help but I'm still collecting info that I think will be asked for. I'm sure everyone's excited to see yet another liner/flue post :bug: right? I've been trying to read some other posts irt this topic but many of them have actually given me more q's and others have been a bit job specific. Did I mention I'm on dial-up (waiting for DSL to get out here) which makes online researching a lot more tiring?

 

[theheatelement]

We have a kit that has the last 5 feet of pipe ovalized, with an oval to round connector. Makes getting past that damper a breeze.

I'm the least knowledgeable one on this thread so all I want to say is that I just looked at some duraflex SS 6" pipe at a stove dealer and the pipe wasn't very conducive to being "ovalized". By ovalize, I'm assuming you're talking about squishing the pipe together between your hands (or by some other means). Anyway, while it's obviously possible to do (if enough force is applied) it would most likely cause damage and possible cracking on the long, narrow sides of the oval shape. Just my 1.5 cents...

Good Luck.

Off topic- I actually have a few chimney liner issues I'm getting ready to "spring" on the forum in hopes of getting some help but I'm still collecting info that I think will be asked for. I'm sure everyone's excited to see yet another liner/flue post :bug: right? I've been trying to read some other posts irt this topic but many of them have actually given me more q's and others have been a bit job specific. Did I mention I'm on dial-up (waiting for DSL to get out here) which makes online researching a lot more tiring?

 

[Hurricane]

My installer used a round to oval pipe and it went through without cutting the original flue. He wanted to cut it because it would have been easier but it wound up only taking 10 minutes to get the liner in anyway. And then he installed the block off plate.

 

[webby3650]

Get rid of it, it'll save time and money. If you remove the stove, simply install a Lock-Top damper.