Hello
I know it was mentioned, but here is a proven step by step way to do it! Does anyone else do it?
http://bobsbits.net/hireabob/sphpblog/index.php?m=09&y=08&entry=entry080924-212410
Quote from link above
I do burn wood chips that are not pellets in my pellet stove. I have a US Stove ( American Harvest). It has the extra agitating arm in the pot.
It’s bit of a process to get the right chip.
(1.) I go to my local sawmill and fill my pick-up with the 52†saw blade sawdust / chips. I’ve found getting the sawdust from a large circular saw blade is better because it leaves a larger chip than the band saw blades do.It cost me $10.00 for a pick-up load or its $2.00 a yard if I’d get a grain wagon. Make sure and have a tarp or you’ll create a major dust storm behind you.
(2.) Then I screen off the large pieces using a ¼ “ screen. This leaves a chip about the size of a pea. I tried using ½ “ screen but it leaves behind pieces that the feeding auger on the pellet stoves doesn’t like.
(3.) Then I built a dryer using a cement mixer. It’s set at the horizontal position – then I attached a heavy duty screen – 4 ‘ long to the cement mixer. It be should large enough and stiff enough to support itself – then I use a screen door screen on the inside to allow only the fines stuff to go though. Bear in mind, the fine stuff won’t go though the screen door screen until the sawdust becomes dry.
The open end of the screen is cover with plywood and supported with roller wheels.
There is a 6 “ filler opening at the top and a 6 “ opening at the bottom to discharge the dried material.
There is another opening in the middle that hot forced air is blown in. The air tube in the middle - is a 6 “ screened tube by 4 ‘ long that runs down the center where the air is blown into and forced outward through the chips / sawdust.
(4.) Once the chips /sawdust is dried and extracted from the dryer – its ready to burn. I use a heavy duty lawn paper bag at .$.42 cent each – it holds 50 lbs of product. I also use 55 gal. heavy duty plastic bags at $.28 cents each and can get 80 lbs in it. But its difficult to lift and pour with.
(5.) There is one more thing you must do is add a bridge breaker to your stove hopper. I built mine out of ½†plywood that is about 4†in diameter that has (8) points that looks like a star. There is a 3/16†bolt that goes through the center of the bridge breaker that is held in place in the hopper with (2) clips at either end. The points will rotate as the auger is moving. So, its mechanical driven.
I had considered going on a large scale and sell these wood chips - but just last week the sawmill changed over from the circular blade to the bandsaw blade.
I am bumbed out.
Bandsaw chips are just to fine.
They will burn - but they have a tendency to blow all over inside the pellet stove.
===============
Last fall, my brother and I actually built a rotating chip burning stove. It uses the chips that all these tree chippers have.
We used a 30 gal barrel that is horizontal and rotates (very slowly)on (4) steel wheels that are powered by a motor.
The 23†barrel is filled with refractor cement leaving a 12†opening through the center.
Both ends are also made using refractor cement.
It is hydraulic feed from one end with the chips. It has enough power to cut off a 2x4 using the hydraulics. It has a 2" x 6" opening.
The heat exchanger is built into the 8†stack. A 9’ feet long x 6†water filled stainless tube inside a 8†metal bestus tube. The hot air goes around the 6†tube.
We couldn't check the inside temperate of the barrel - but the outside of the barrel was at 400 deg and ran about 700 deg coming out of the stack.
We used this to heat a 8000 sq ft shop.
We are currently working on building another chip burning stove and a larger chip dryer.
We are also considering regrinding the larger chips from the chippers down to ¼†or 3/8†chips - thus it will probably be the rights size for pellet stoves.
I wished I had a million bags of these chips, I’d be a millionaire.
It all cost - lots of time and money.
Well, now you know all my secrets.
hope you could make some sense of what I wrote you.
I have read of others that burn wood chips in their pellet stove.
I've found it takes about 3 times the volume of wood chips then the pellets to get the same heat. So a bigger hopper was needed.
To get the flame in the stove at the same height - I use the # 3 setting for pellets and # 9 for wood chips.
Also when I weighed the chip and pellets on a scale the pellets are 3 times heavier.
I also checked the temperature of the exhaust and for pellets it varies between 220 and 245 deg.
For wood chips the temp. is between 170 and 190 deg. It's lower because it burns differently and it's drawing more air. With chips you might get more of a flash and then dies down a bit before the next auger turn.
I also hooked a heat exchanger up to my exhaust on the pellet stove, so it temps my hot water for my furnace. I am trying to grab every bit of heat I can out of the stove.
I know it was mentioned, but here is a proven step by step way to do it! Does anyone else do it?
http://bobsbits.net/hireabob/sphpblog/index.php?m=09&y=08&entry=entry080924-212410
Quote from link above
I do burn wood chips that are not pellets in my pellet stove. I have a US Stove ( American Harvest). It has the extra agitating arm in the pot.
It’s bit of a process to get the right chip.
(1.) I go to my local sawmill and fill my pick-up with the 52†saw blade sawdust / chips. I’ve found getting the sawdust from a large circular saw blade is better because it leaves a larger chip than the band saw blades do.It cost me $10.00 for a pick-up load or its $2.00 a yard if I’d get a grain wagon. Make sure and have a tarp or you’ll create a major dust storm behind you.
(2.) Then I screen off the large pieces using a ¼ “ screen. This leaves a chip about the size of a pea. I tried using ½ “ screen but it leaves behind pieces that the feeding auger on the pellet stoves doesn’t like.
(3.) Then I built a dryer using a cement mixer. It’s set at the horizontal position – then I attached a heavy duty screen – 4 ‘ long to the cement mixer. It be should large enough and stiff enough to support itself – then I use a screen door screen on the inside to allow only the fines stuff to go though. Bear in mind, the fine stuff won’t go though the screen door screen until the sawdust becomes dry.
The open end of the screen is cover with plywood and supported with roller wheels.
There is a 6 “ filler opening at the top and a 6 “ opening at the bottom to discharge the dried material.
There is another opening in the middle that hot forced air is blown in. The air tube in the middle - is a 6 “ screened tube by 4 ‘ long that runs down the center where the air is blown into and forced outward through the chips / sawdust.
(4.) Once the chips /sawdust is dried and extracted from the dryer – its ready to burn. I use a heavy duty lawn paper bag at .$.42 cent each – it holds 50 lbs of product. I also use 55 gal. heavy duty plastic bags at $.28 cents each and can get 80 lbs in it. But its difficult to lift and pour with.
(5.) There is one more thing you must do is add a bridge breaker to your stove hopper. I built mine out of ½†plywood that is about 4†in diameter that has (8) points that looks like a star. There is a 3/16†bolt that goes through the center of the bridge breaker that is held in place in the hopper with (2) clips at either end. The points will rotate as the auger is moving. So, its mechanical driven.
I had considered going on a large scale and sell these wood chips - but just last week the sawmill changed over from the circular blade to the bandsaw blade.
I am bumbed out.
Bandsaw chips are just to fine.
They will burn - but they have a tendency to blow all over inside the pellet stove.
===============
Last fall, my brother and I actually built a rotating chip burning stove. It uses the chips that all these tree chippers have.
We used a 30 gal barrel that is horizontal and rotates (very slowly)on (4) steel wheels that are powered by a motor.
The 23†barrel is filled with refractor cement leaving a 12†opening through the center.
Both ends are also made using refractor cement.
It is hydraulic feed from one end with the chips. It has enough power to cut off a 2x4 using the hydraulics. It has a 2" x 6" opening.
The heat exchanger is built into the 8†stack. A 9’ feet long x 6†water filled stainless tube inside a 8†metal bestus tube. The hot air goes around the 6†tube.
We couldn't check the inside temperate of the barrel - but the outside of the barrel was at 400 deg and ran about 700 deg coming out of the stack.
We used this to heat a 8000 sq ft shop.
We are currently working on building another chip burning stove and a larger chip dryer.
We are also considering regrinding the larger chips from the chippers down to ¼†or 3/8†chips - thus it will probably be the rights size for pellet stoves.
I wished I had a million bags of these chips, I’d be a millionaire.
It all cost - lots of time and money.
Well, now you know all my secrets.
hope you could make some sense of what I wrote you.
I have read of others that burn wood chips in their pellet stove.
I've found it takes about 3 times the volume of wood chips then the pellets to get the same heat. So a bigger hopper was needed.
To get the flame in the stove at the same height - I use the # 3 setting for pellets and # 9 for wood chips.
Also when I weighed the chip and pellets on a scale the pellets are 3 times heavier.
I also checked the temperature of the exhaust and for pellets it varies between 220 and 245 deg.
For wood chips the temp. is between 170 and 190 deg. It's lower because it burns differently and it's drawing more air. With chips you might get more of a flash and then dies down a bit before the next auger turn.
I also hooked a heat exchanger up to my exhaust on the pellet stove, so it temps my hot water for my furnace. I am trying to grab every bit of heat I can out of the stove.
