Burning with flue damper completely closed

[super-flames]

I'm having an issue with hard to control fires in my stove. I'm new to wood burning and installed a Regency F2400M, a very standard steel, non-cat, medium stove with about 15 feet of chimney straight up.

I've been trying to get overnight burns by loading the stove full and closing the primary air all the way down in stages . The problem is that even when the primary air is fully closed, with a full load the fires would go out of control and stovetop temperatures would start climbing above 850 degrees.

To help this issue, I installed a flue damper to control the draft. It helps, but the only way that I seem to get a controllable fire overnight with a full load of wood is if I shut the primary all the way AND shut the flue damper all the way (it has some holes so it doesn't seal the flue completely). If I leave the flue damper even slightly tilted open, I'll get big flames and stovetop temps going above 850, still.

This seems like a crazy amount of draft to me! I think I have a very typical, by the book, stove setup. Does anyone else experience similar issues? Is it safe to burn overnight with the key damper fully closed? Does anyone else use the damper like this? Thanks a bunch for any help.

 

[begreen]

Was this a used stove? If so, has it been gone over to ensure there are no issues like a cracked or split tube, or broken baffle?

 

[super-flames]

Yes, it is used. The tubes seem fine from looking at the front, the baffle is fire brick and does have a crack in it, but I can easily push it together like it isn't there.

 

[begreen]

A 15 ft flue usually doesn't hyper-draft but may be possible. Re-inspect the stove. Feel the tubes to make sure there isn't a crack on the backside. Look carefully at the secondary manifold, examining for cracks. Is the air control working properly?

 

[super-flames]

I'm pretty sure that the air control works because if I shut it all the way down before the secondaries are well lit, the fire will go out. What do you mean by secondary manifold, do you mean the baffle?

 

[super-flames]

Can we move this question back to the main forum, please? It's not about Regency stoves in particular, it's a question for any stove owner that uses a flue damper.

 

[begreen]

I'm pretty sure that the air control works because if I shut it all the way down before the secondaries are well lit, the fire will go out. What do you mean by secondary manifold, do you mean the baffle?

The secondary manifold is the channel that delivers air to the secondary tubes.

What is unusual is the strong draft with just a 15' flue. For people dealing with strong draft, it is common to have to close the flue damper and air control all the way. However, the control problem is frequently due to not closing down the air soon enough. This causes the wood to outgas too quickly which causes a very hot fire. Packing large splits tightly (not log cabin style) and closing down the air more quickly can reduce this heat bloom considerably.

The thread is in the Regency forum to attract other Regency 2400 owner with helpful answers on the stove operation.

 

[super-flames]

However, the control problem is frequently due to not closing down the air soon enough. This causes the wood to outgas too quickly which causes a very hot fire. Packing large splits tightly (not log cabin style) and closing down the air more quickly can reduce this heat bloom considerably.

Ok, this is helpful. What I've been doing is waiting for the whole pile of wood to catch fire and off-gas before shutting the primary air down. It seemed to be the only way to get sustained secondary burn. I had tried shutting the primary earlier, before all the wood was charred, but the secondaries would often flicker for a while and then die, with no flames left in the box.

What's the best way to turn the air down?

 

[begreen]

Don't shoot for secondary combustion right away. The air should be closed down in increments. Once the fire has started, close it down maybe 50% or until the flames get lazy. Then wait for the fire to regain strength (maybe 5-10 minutes) and close down the air another increment until the flames get lazy again, then wait and repeat. Just be sure that with each turning down of the air that the flames don't go out. A good flue thermometer really helps track these steps, especially if it's digital.

 

[bholler]

Can we move this question back to the main forum, please? It's not about Regency stoves in particular, it's a question for any stove owner that uses a flue damper.

Have you checked that the door seals properly?

 

[super-flames]

Have you checked that the door seals properly?

Tried the dollar bill test, it's totally tight in some spots and slips out with pulling at others. Friend who also burns wood says it's not worth replacing the gasket.

 

[bholler]

Tried the dollar bill test, it's totally tight in some spots and slips out with pulling at others. Friend who also burns wood says it's not worth replacing the gasket.

You can try adjusting the door latch. Or replacing the gasket. But that is probably the issue

 

[stoveliker]

You can try adjusting the door latch. Or replacing the gasket. But that is probably the issue

Why? Slips out with pulling doesn't sound bad?
It's not supposed to be so tight that the bill rips. So slipping out with pulling is correct...?

Question is how easy it slips out of course. Some force should be needed.

 

[bholler]

Why? Slips out with pulling doesn't sound bad?
It's not supposed to be so tight that the bill rips. So slipping out with pulling is correct...?

Question is how easy it slips out of course. Some force should be needed.

True i read it as slips out without pulling. So you may be right it could be fine

 

[super-flames]

True i read it as slips out without pulling. So you may be right it could be fine

Yep the dollar bill stays in the gasket when closed but comes out if I pull it fairly gently.

 

[stoveliker]

"fairly gently". Depends on your frame if reference. But it sounds borderline.

Yet, "pulling" sounds good.

🤷

 

[bholler]

Yep the dollar bill stays in the gasket when closed but comes out if I pull it fairly gently.

I would try adjusting the latch

 

[VirginiaIron]

"fairly gently". Depends on your frame if reference. But it sounds borderline.

Yet, "pulling" sounds good.

🤷

If the bill slips out easily (subjective) I would say you are borderline and it could change when hot. A new gasket is cheap enough and if DIY, the few hours effort could change your whole experience for the better.
My choice for high success door gasket replacement is the product with red silicone. I have had less success rates with the clear/black liquid/cement like products.
And, door gaskets are typically a maintenance wear/replacement/consumable item and manufacturers may recommend replacing the gasket every year.