Breckwell Big E auger jamming only when full

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.

samerickson89

New Member
Nov 29, 2023
10
Longview, IL
My Breckwell Big E (SP1000) pellet stove stopped feeding pellets last night, and I could really use some help troubleshooting as we're in the middle of a cold spell here in central Illinois and it's my primary heat source! Here's what I've been able to find out so far:
  1. With the motor disconnected and the hopper empty, the auger turns freely.
  2. The auger jams up immediately when I try to put pellets through it. As far as I can tell, pellets are getting wedged between the auger blades and the housing, both at the bottom and at the sides.
  3. The motor clutch doesn't seem to be engaging. When it comes on, the motor turns but not the output shaft to the auger. (I plan on doing some more troubleshooting on this today)
This video suggests the auger blades could be dull. Has anyone come across that before? How can I tell if that's the case? What could cause that? Is it worth trying to fix, or should I just replace the auger? if not a dull auger, what else could cause it to bind up only when full?

Would running the motor with the output shaft disconnected from the auger be the best way to diagnose the motor? Is it possible that it will turn when disconnected but too weakly to turn when connected? If it does turn out that the motor is fine but the clutch is worn out, can that be replaced separately or would I need a whole new motor assembly? Any recommendations on where to find a reliable (preferably US made) replacement for relatively cheap?

Attaching the owner's manual downloaded directly from manufacturer website in case that helps anyone answer any of the questions above.

Thanks in advance for any and all help!

Update #1: as far as I can tell, the problem is at the base of the auger. I put in a handful of pellets (almost no dust), and after a few turns half of them have been pulverized and a few are jammed between the auger blade and the wall.
 

Attachments

Last edited:
Could it be the connection between the auger motor and the auger?
Set screw or lock bolt loose or possible auger motor gear stripped
Remove the motor from the stove. Open it up and check the gears
 
Could it be the connection between the auger motor and the auger?
Set screw or lock bolt loose or possible auger motor gear stripped
Remove the motor from the stove. Open it up and check the gears
This one has an R-clip connecting motor to auger, and it's not broken or damaged at all. Whatever issue the motor has, I feel fairly confident that it's a secondary symptom of the auger jamming. The amount of force required to turn the auger with pellets in the hopper is definitely more than this motor is built for, so I think if the motor is burnt out or the clutch worn, it happened from trying to force the stuck auger.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ssyko
More than likely your auger motor is tired, the phenolic washers they use to center the armature's are allowing it to move to much and they get weak. Time for an auger or if you are mechanically inclined tear the auger apart and add/remove washers to center the armature.
 
i could be wrong but i do not think these motors have any clutching, they use the r-clip and shear that off if they get jammed. I agree with above that the motor is tired.
 
i could be wrong but i do not think these motors have any clutching, they use the r-clip and shear that off if they get jammed. I agree with above that the motor is tired.
I might be using the wrong terminology here 😅 I'm far from a pro (and barely a passable DIYer). I'll get a better pic when I'm home, but the part I'm talking about is inside here. It normally moves up and down when the motor turns on and off, but it doesn't seem to be engaging with anything now. I'll hook it back up tonight and take some videos.

[Hearth.com] Breckwell Big E auger jamming only when full


More than likely your auger motor is tired, the phenolic washers they use to center the armature's are allowing it to move to much and they get weak. Time for an auger or if you are mechanically inclined tear the auger apart and add/remove washers to center the armature.
Do you mean the motor armatures? Would that affect the position of the auger itself? I guess I thought that was centered by the bushings on either end of the auger shaft... which I'm now realizing could be worn out and need replacing. Think that's a possibility?
 
Ok if an auger motor is new it has the armature (spinning drum on a shaft) centered in the coil pack ( where the magnetic field is strongest)[what you have circled]. The shaft is a worm drive (looks like a drill flute) it goes into the box with all the gears. Only so far, though. The drive gear it runs is usually nylon and wont take a lot of abuse but is real strong. If the drum moves out of the magnetic field (3/16’s of an inch/ 3-4 mm) it gets weaker (meaning it loses power to turn everything. Yes if its an older item it very well could be worn. That armature, coil pack, gear box make up an auger
 
  • Like
Reactions: johneh
Bearing shaft = permanent magnet armature

[Hearth.com] Breckwell Big E auger jamming only when full
 
Ok if an auger motor is new it has the armature (spinning drum on a shaft) centered in the coil pack ( where the magnetic field is strongest)[what you have circled]. The shaft is a worm drive (looks like a drill flute) it goes into the box with all the gears. Only so far, though. The drive gear it runs is usually nylon and wont take a lot of abuse but is real strong. If the drum moves out of the magnetic field (3/16’s of an inch/ 3-4 mm) it gets weaker (meaning it loses power to turn everything. Yes if its an older item it very well could be worn. That armature, coil pack, gear box make up an auger
Thank you! I couldn't find a blown-up picture like that anywhere, so that really helps me understand how it all operates.

That being said, I hooked the motor back up without any pellets in the hopper and it turned just fine, which tells me that the auger itself getting jammed, not the motor, is the issue here. I really can't overemphasize how much torque it takes to turn that thing once a few pellets get stuck between the blades and housing.

Any ideas what could be causing that? Someone did mention in another post a while back that running it with the heat level at 4-5 for too long could warp things... maybe too much clearance between the blades and housing? If anyone's got other possible causes, I'd love to hear them! Or if the collective opinion is that I should just suck it up and buy a new auger before chasing a hundred possible solutions, I could be pretty easily convinced at this point.
 
Not the auger shaft. If an auger motor is working properly or is new you cant hold the shaft with channel locks. They will break pellets
 
  • Like
Reactions: johneh
Not the auger shaft. If an auger motor is working properly or is new you cant hold the shaft with channel locks. They will break pellets
Are you saying the output shaft on the auger motor should have enough torque to force its way through any pellets that get stuck in the auger?

And I guess I should also ask, is it normally possible to turn the auger shaft by hand with pellets in the hopper, or is it normal for it to get so stuck that it won't turn by hand?
 
If its new it should take any small jam, no if your auger is full turning by hand may be difficult. 25 years of stoves and i have changed 2 augers both in englanders in that time. I owned 2 big E stoves and replaced 1 auger and 1 pot then sold em. If you wish to pursue the auger that is fine. I would spend $50 on an auger and press on.
 
  • Like
Reactions: johneh
If its new it should take any small jam, no if your auger is full turning by hand may be difficult. 25 years of stoves and i have changed 2 augers both in englanders in that time. I owned 2 big E stoves and replaced 1 auger and 1 pot then sold em. If you wish to pursue the auger that is fine. I would spend $50 on an auger and press on.
Ok you're the pro here, I'll take your word for it! Hopefully replacing the auger motor is all that's needed, because it's too cold here in Illinois for my mini split to keep up 🥶
 
Im far from a pro bro, but i have run into that issue on a doz diff stoves. I have replaced some washers on an auger with ss and the Ashley/frankenstove in my garage is still turning, at least 18yr old.

What rpm is your auger?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Washed-Up
Very well could be,