Boiler/Storage Water Treatment Chemicals Can someone explain and point where they get it?

[mpilihp]

Hello Im nearing having my wood boiler connected and filled. I was hoping someone could expand on the "Boiler Chemical Intro" jebatty did in another thread. Im looking for where to purchase these raw chemicals hopefully locally )IE hardware store, grocery store, plumbing supply house...) and if not online. Also whats the 'Mixture of these for treatment....

O2 scavanger -

Sodium sulfite - used in water treatment as an oxygen scavenger agent, pH 9 - WHere do you purchase this locally, is it sold as a common household product as something else?? Also how much do you add for X amount of gallons of system water?

PH level and maintaining it - I know I saw it in a different thread but I cannot find it. WHat is the proper PH level and where can these chemicals be purchased locally typically.

Sodium carbonate (soda ash) - a relatively strong base in various settings; used as a pH regulator to maintain stable alkaline conditions; common additive to neutralize acid effects and raise pH

Trisodium phosphate - a highly water-soluble ionic salt; dissolved in water has an alkaline pH; used as an acidity regulator (buffering agent).

Sodium silica - soluble in water, producing an alkaline solution; binds to heavier molecules and precipitates them out of the water.

Someone else mentioned this stuff - “Treatment Solution 101™” from this site (broken link removed) which is $25 to treat 200 gallons. What does this actually do/doesnt really state what its function is.

Are there other All in one treatments that stablizes the PH level and scavenges oxygen?

Thanks

~ Phil

 

[jebatty]

From a prior post of mine:

"Principal concerns are pH, total alkalinity, and O2 scavenger. Acidic water (pH less than 7) can cause lots of corrosion.

"O2 scavenger (sodium sulfite and other chemicals): follow directions provided by boiler chemical supplier.

"Total alkalinity: 200-700 ppm based on what I’ve read; buffers acid changes. Various chemicals used here.

"pH: this also relates to total alkalinity; pH of 8-9 probably OK. I used sodium hydroxide (lye, caustic soda). This is dangerous to work with, follow directions carefully.

"I used a swimming pool test kit to test total alkalinity and pH. Made a guess based on supplier recommendations for O2 scavenger. My system is closed, so if pH is OK, the rest should work out without problem."

Google sodium sulfite or boiler chemical and you should find suppliers. Although I used it, I'm not convinced this (or other oxygen scavengers) is needed in a home, wood boiler, closed system. Any O2 in the initial water fill should be consumed quite rapidly (rust) and then be over. In an open system this will be more of a concern, and in any system where water is being added periodically, this will be a concern. Test kits are available; I've never used one, except a swimming pool total alkalinity test kit.

pH and sodium hydroxide. Note comment on "dangerous" above. I found this readily available at a local hardware store. You test for pH with litmus paper. Google that and you will find suppliers. Health food stores also may stock litmus paper which will test into the 8-9 range. Also swimming pool suppliers have test kits that test for pH.

In my experience pH is the most critical in home, wood boiler setup, open or closed, and even more so if open and water is being added periodically. My water supply had pH of 6.5, acid, and I got lots of rust in my initial open storage system before I took the time to discover why. My new system is closed, 1000 gallon storage, and I checked pH after filling and added sodium sulfite per directions from supplier and then sodium hydroxide to get pH at about 8. Other than a small, initial burst of rust, the water now is crystal clear, no further chemical treatment needed.

Your water supply may be closer to pH 7 or a little above 7 (base). This would pose much less a problem than pH less than 7.

 

[mpilihp]

Hi Jim thanks, right now its just the wood boiler no storage so only increasing the system by about 25/30 gallons so Ill just look into the pH and alkalinity.

 

[in hot water]

I use products from www.rhomarwater.com. I specifically like their multi metal boiler treatment for aluminum boilers. It is the only brand I have found that covers iron, stainless, copper and aluminum. As well as alloys of those. It's not cheap, however with omething like 35 ingredients.

A good treatment as Jim mentioned will scavenge O2, buffer ph, lock up hardness, and also offer a film provider. This product coats all the surfaces with a thin layer to prevent any rust or corrosion. It took a lot of formulation and testing to blend this product that would cover all the metals. Film providers are very important with aluminum HXers as they are very ph sensitive.

If the system is mainly steel and iron, you may not need such an engineered product. If it is mainly steel and copper, yet another product is available. The chemical you chose should be based on what your system is built from, metals wise.

OWF manufacturers offer products that are mainly O2 scavengers to handle fresh water being introduced.

Check around there are plenty of companies that offer products. Silver King, and the products from Rectorseal are a couple others I have used. Chemical Supply in Denver also blends boiler cleaners and treatments.

It's wise to run a cleaner through the system first. You want to cut and flush out any oils, lubes, flux residue, etc. Or it may compromise the treatments you add. This is especially important with glycols. You want a clean system before adding any chemicals.

Plenty of contractors still use TSP for the first cleaning. It tends to leave the ph high, 10's which steam boilers enjoy Multi metal cleaners are also available.

Lastly the fill water should be of good quality or again you may compromise the chemicals you put in. Ph, hardness, TDS are some things to check.

hr