GVA said:
I see this is the 2nd post on the same subject for you. It may just be the loop that is confusing you so here is a quick drawing.
the x's are connection points between each.
However if you don't understand the drawing or what we've been telling you you should hire an electrician.
feel free to PM any one of us if you have questions.
Actually GVA, I found your sketch a bit confusing since you seem to show two neutrals going to the blower motors rather than one neutral and the ground. I followed it, but only because I knew what you were trying to show. The green ground wire (which might not be present, if the cord only has two prongs, it won't have a green ground wire) should be tied to a chassis ground point, not an electrical contact on the motor! Remember that the ground wire is only there in case of problems, under normal operations it should NEVER see any current going through it. The theory is that if a hot wire shorts to the stove (or other device) frame, rather than letting the stove become electrically hot, the ground wire carries the current to ground, (ideally blowing the fuse in the process...) but it should not see any current during normal operation.
When building electronics gear, one of the standard tests is known as the "Hi-pot" or High Potential test, where the hot and neutral wires are tied together, and several thousand volts of electrical potential are applied between those wires and the ground connection - there must be zero or negligible current flow, or the unit fails.
The "loop" should be from the white Neutral in the AC cord to the black hot, the green is a sort of seperate branch that doesn't connect to the other part of the loop.
Gooserider