Black silicone on stove outlet/pipe junction?!!

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
Status
Not open for further replies.

Woody Stover

Minister of Fire
Hearth Supporter
Dec 25, 2010
13,215
Southern IN
My BIL had his Resolute III put in by a stove dealer's installer. He put black silicone around the joint where the pipe goes into the stove. I've only heard of 500* or 600* silicone, but it seems to me that this area of the stove could get hotter than that in a moderate overfire situation. Is this installer's credibility still intact, or no?

I started the stove tonight and burned it briskly for a little while, but the stove top thermo that I placed on the pipe near the flue collar only got to about 400* max...
 
It would not be my first choice, but if the draft is good you won't have any smoke leaking out with or without the silicone. I don't have anything sealing the joints on this stove, but on the century I used stove cement pressed into the joints.

Are you sure it was silicone? Stove cement or even something like high temp Permetex for exhaust manifolds may come in caulk gun sizes that are available to dealer/installers who may go through a lot of it.

As far as the dealers reputation... what does the rest of the install look like?

Matt
 
I had a problem with a porous venting system that was degrading the draft of my Quad 4300. the anology someone had used on this site was "trying to suck a thick milkshake through a straw that had a hole in it". This made perfect sense to me. What i wound up doing was buying ultra high heat Permatex (copper-colored, 700 degree rating), sealing the joints, and then putting a black metal band around them as to hide the copper-colored sealant. I am now wondering if my stove is overdrafting ;-)
 
EatenByLimestone said:
It would not be my first choice, but if the draft is good you won't have any smoke leaking out with or without the silicone. I don't have anything sealing the joints on this stove, but on the century I used stove cement pressed into the joints.

Are you sure it was silicone? Stove cement or even something like high temp Permetex for exhaust manifolds may come in caulk gun sizes that are available to dealer/installers who may go through a lot of it.

As far as the dealers reputation... what does the rest of the install look like?

Matt
Draft is good. I guess I was just wondering what would happen if the black silicone (if it is indeed silicone) heated past its rating. Fumes, ignition, or what?

I haven't been on the roof to see what was done to seal the hole. Not sure I would even know what to look for. I will be up there soon to drop pipe down the chimney to the basement hearth-mount stove. I'll look at it then, although I probably won't be able to see everything he did at this point....
 
I've only ever seen high-temp silicone in red, never black. Has anyone seen it in black?

Years ago, my dealer suggested I use silicone to adhere the door gasket but it just would not hold up to the heat. At the time they did not affer gasket cement so I bought muffler cement instead.

On a stovepipe joint you don't really need super adhesion, just mostly a filler that won't fall out. You will want to dismantle it at some point.
 
Furnace cement is mighty cheap.
 
Might get a lot more replies if you post this in the "Hearth Room" forum. They discuss all sorts of stove issues there.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.