BK Recommended Flue Length

[ValleyCottageSplitter]

I have my new BK Ashford 30.2 sitting in my Ridgeline at the moment. Waiting a delayed 2 more weeks for the installer

I noticed in the manual for the first time about recommended flue lengths. With my wall exit flue it's suggesting 25ft vertical rise. It looks like I'll need 21ft or so to meet clearances. If I go beyond that it will add extra expenses (pipe, roof hangars). Will my draft be strongly affected? Will that impact burn times or cause smoke on low? How much?

P.S. any ideas how to get this 500lb stove out of my bed safely with a ramp and no one around to help? It's not a completely smooth and flush slope (hinges, etc)

Thanks,
Ian

 

[webby3650]

I’d assume the installer would move it in, and/or bring it with them...

What’s the reason for the Tee system? Going straight up is always better.

 

[ValleyCottageSplitter]

I’d assume the installer would move it in, and/or bring it with them...

What’s the reason for the Tee system? Going straight up is always better.

Yes. I'd just like to not drive around my stove for two or more weeks. I'm going on road trips and plowing for example. I had to purchase from a different shop, no one that can install here sells BK. The shop made me pick it up this week after the installer delayed.

I've been planning this stove location for over a year. Above this is the master Bedroom. It would be going right through the middle of the room where the bed is. I don't really want it running through the Bedroom.

 

[Nigel459]

I have my new BK Ashford 30.2 sitting in my Ridgeline at the moment. Waiting a delayed 2 more weeks for the installer

I noticed in the manual for the first time about recommended flue lengths. With my wall exit flue it's suggesting 25ft vertical rise. It looks like I'll need 21ft or so to meet clearances. If I go beyond that it will add extra expenses (pipe, roof hangars). Will my draft be strongly affected? Will that impact burn times or cause smoke on low? How much?

P.S. any ideas how to get this 500lb stove out of my bed safely with a ramp and no one around to help? It's not a completely smooth and flush slope (hinges, etc)

Thanks,
Ian

You can probably lighten the stove considerably by removing the cast iron cladding, firebrick, ash pan, door, etc. Not sure of the Ashford but many cast clad stoves are easily disassembled. Might make for a much easier offload. Good luck, enjoy that stove, a beauty

 

[webby3650]

You can probably lighten the stove considerably by removing the cast iron cladding, firebrick, ash pan, door, etc. Not sure of the Ashford but many cast clad stoves are easily disassembled. Might make for a much easier offload. Good luck, enjoy that stove, a beauty

You can shed some weight by removing the top, Ashpan assembly and the sides.
I’d keep it wrapped up and slide it down the ramps. Then unpackage it. We use furniture sliders all the time, they work great once you get it close to its destination.

 

[darktower007]

I would rent an engine hoist. If you can’t do this call friends... if friends can’t help and your all alone... I would devise a pulley system around your garage.

Or if your 6’5 and a beast you could just muscle it down.... the problem is slowing it down as it slides out


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[ValleyCottageSplitter]

You can shed some weight by removing the top, Ashpan assembly and the sides.
I’d keep it wrapped up and slide it down the ramps. Then unpackage it. We use furniture sliders all the time, they work great once you get it close to its destination.

Would it remove enough weight? Maybe half would be manageable. I'm worried about it getting stuck getting down the ramp and my truck being really out of commission. I also would need to unwrap it.

Thanks guys.

 

[Highbeam]

This is one of those jobs where you remove the tailgate. Then put your ramps right up to the truck bed.

I use ramps made of 2x10 lumber and the pallets always slide down in a controllable manner. Never stuck and never slides on its own.

Don’t worry about the weight, you’ll never lift the whole thing. Scoot, slide, pivot, into place.

 

[WES999]

I removed all the cast iron and the ash draw etc, reduced the weight considerably, wheeled it right in the house myself,
was not too difficult. I think I would cover your ramps with some plywood to make a smooth surface.
Good luck

 

[ValleyCottageSplitter]

This is one of those jobs where you remove the tailgate. Then put your ramps right up to the truck bed.

I use ramps made of 2x10 lumber and the pallets always slide down in a controllable manner. Never stuck and never slides on its own.

Don’t worry about the weight, you’ll never lift the whole thing. Scoot, slide, pivot, into place.

That isn't too much of the problem. The ridgeline tailgate rotates out and I could put the ramps up to the bed. But the Stove Pallet is up about 3" ontop of the hearth pad and another pallet. Right now it is too heavy to scoot by hand. I can use some HD ratchet straps to slowly scoot it but I can't move it once I get close to the door.

 

[black smoke signals]

That’s a really steep angle but doable I would tailgate like high beam said then strap stove down pallet then jack up front end of truck block tires. This will change the angle for a better control or chain fall from rafters but most important is eliminate snags

 

[darktower007]

Glad you got it in... it’s tough when something is heavy and awkward in dimensions.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ValleyCottageSplitter]

I removed all the cast iron and the ash draw etc, reduced the weight considerably, wheeled it right in the house myself,
was not too difficult. I think I would cover your ramps with some plywood to make a smooth surface.
Good luck
View attachment 233665View attachment 233666

Oh but that was the AF20? It's a little lighter to start. So if I line the ramp with boards and remove all the panels I might have a chance getting it down into the garage. So would you guess 1/3 or 1/2 the weight?

 

[black smoke signals]

Get a buddy to help you then slide on your steel toe boots

 

[AlbergSteve]

Oh but that was the AF20? It's a little lighter to start. So if I line the ramp with boards and remove all the panels I might have a chance getting it down into the garage. So would you guess 1/3 or 1/2 the weight?

If you strip the cast and brick out, that might be 100 pounds, you're still left with a 400 pound stove. Less chance of damaging the cast if you remove it.

 

[begreen]

2-3 people will have that stove slid down that ramp faster than you can post here. We slid our 600# stove down a homemade ramp from the truck. It took longer to assemble the ramp then it took to slide it down.

 

[WES999]

The Ashford 20 is about 50 lb less than the 30, I estimate removing all the cast and bricks is closer to 150-200lb less

Not too bad to move with the hand truck.

 

[webby3650]

The Ashford 20 is about 50 lb less than the 30, I estimate removing all the cast and bricks is closer to 150-200lb less

Not too bad to move with the hand truck.

I just moved my Woodstock in by myself with a hand truck. I usually bring the lift escalera lift home from work which makes it way easier. I wasn’t too bad though.

 

[ValleyCottageSplitter]

Hey guys, thanks for all the suggestions and confidence! After removing all the panels, bricks and pan I could slide it around. I bought a second board and 800lb dolly. I threw a mattress at the end and slipped a 5' cant hook through the pallet for extra tipping safety. Let it drop and it slid down nicely!

I also backed up to our steep driveway which took off 15° of slope. I then used the dolly to slide it into the garage. Took most of the afternoon.

So my original question, what do you guys think about flue length? Will 21ft vertical be enough vs 25ft recommended?

 

[Rickb]

should be plenty

 

[Highbeam]

You keep saying 25’ recommended. It’s a 15’ minimum plus if you have any bends you need more. Did you just misread the 15’ for 25’ or do you have a bunch of bends?

 

[ValleyCottageSplitter]

You keep saying 25’ recommended. It’s a 15’ minimum plus if you have any bends you need more. Did you just misread the 15’ for 25’ or do you have a bunch of bends?

A bunch of bends: 90° DVL, 1-2' horiz run, ext tee, and two 15°s to go around roofline. So 15ft min + 10ft.

 

[begreen]

A bunch of bends: 90° DVL, 1-2' horiz run, ext tee, and two 15°s to go around roofline. So 15ft min + 10ft.

If concerned you could soften the first 90º by using 2 45º DVL elbows with an offset.

 

[ValleyCottageSplitter]

If concerned you could soften the first 90º by using 2 45º DVL elbows with an offset.

Ya. I mentioned that to the installer and it was completely out of the blue to them. They were going to add $200 or something for it. Maybe I could go change it out afterwards if I really need.