Hello, this is my 1st post so pardon a bit of ignorance here. I'm looking at the BK P insert and Lopi Revere and Lopi Leyden. I have an unlimited amt of wood to cut myself. House is 1800sqft upstairs and same down in the basement. Basement is completely below ground...not a walkout. 8 ft ceilings. We have a fireplace available upstairs with a 7 inch square (inside measure) clay square tube tile flue. All appearances are no cracks and has been used very little since constructed in 1979.
I know the stoves will do the job but I like the idea of cutting and handling less wood with the BK cat cause I'm 50yrs old and have a temperamental back at times. In real world I may be running either pretty strong to heat my space. Unit will be in the living room and our bedrooms are down a standard length 3br ranch style hallway. Wondering how clean each will burn related to creosote buildup. I'm guessing the BK will need less cleaning of ashes due to better burn. The Leyden has ashpan but I will need to have shorter legs (about 4" shorter) for it to be installed at the front of my fireplace opening.
I work 12 hr shifts often and that would make things easier on wifey if we go with BK. Just dont care for the looks. The all black is tolerable. Most say you cant cook on a bk so kudos there to the Lopi stoves.
About liners....where can a person order online for liners? I found some kits on ebay for $250 with 15 ft and top cap etc. I thought I'd see how uninsulated works then during better weather pour in loose perlite from these guys http://www.hometownperlite.com/Masonry_fill_details.html
I would have to make a block off plate at the fireplace damper area. There is only 5 3/4 inches at best opening thru the damper 6"x 28" roughly is the opening. There is also a protruding connection that hooks to the damper opening/control rod that also limits the easy path of the stainless liner as it is dropped down. I think this damper assembly is of cast material and wonder how easily it would be to relieve part of it with an angle grinder? The damper rod protrusion is of course directly in the center of the flue path. I'm pretty handy overall and will have help from my son but am looking for some advice to help here. The flue also comes down straight from the top of chimney and then is offset as it passes thru the damper area. I do see some references to 5 1/2" pipe liner and wonder if those would work. In any case, the main housing of the damper (not the damper flap) looks like it is solidly built into the chimney and not removable. Without cutting off the earlier mentioned protrusion, I may have to go up to the side of that area via elbows etc. My seller says they sometimes do the "slammer install" but I want to sleep well at night knowing I have the liner.
Could I just try a block off plate at first and release into the chimney above the damper into the existing chimney?
Thanks for you help, Bigspoke.
I know the stoves will do the job but I like the idea of cutting and handling less wood with the BK cat cause I'm 50yrs old and have a temperamental back at times. In real world I may be running either pretty strong to heat my space. Unit will be in the living room and our bedrooms are down a standard length 3br ranch style hallway. Wondering how clean each will burn related to creosote buildup. I'm guessing the BK will need less cleaning of ashes due to better burn. The Leyden has ashpan but I will need to have shorter legs (about 4" shorter) for it to be installed at the front of my fireplace opening.
I work 12 hr shifts often and that would make things easier on wifey if we go with BK. Just dont care for the looks. The all black is tolerable. Most say you cant cook on a bk so kudos there to the Lopi stoves.
About liners....where can a person order online for liners? I found some kits on ebay for $250 with 15 ft and top cap etc. I thought I'd see how uninsulated works then during better weather pour in loose perlite from these guys http://www.hometownperlite.com/Masonry_fill_details.html
I would have to make a block off plate at the fireplace damper area. There is only 5 3/4 inches at best opening thru the damper 6"x 28" roughly is the opening. There is also a protruding connection that hooks to the damper opening/control rod that also limits the easy path of the stainless liner as it is dropped down. I think this damper assembly is of cast material and wonder how easily it would be to relieve part of it with an angle grinder? The damper rod protrusion is of course directly in the center of the flue path. I'm pretty handy overall and will have help from my son but am looking for some advice to help here. The flue also comes down straight from the top of chimney and then is offset as it passes thru the damper area. I do see some references to 5 1/2" pipe liner and wonder if those would work. In any case, the main housing of the damper (not the damper flap) looks like it is solidly built into the chimney and not removable. Without cutting off the earlier mentioned protrusion, I may have to go up to the side of that area via elbows etc. My seller says they sometimes do the "slammer install" but I want to sleep well at night knowing I have the liner.
Could I just try a block off plate at first and release into the chimney above the damper into the existing chimney?
Thanks for you help, Bigspoke.