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carpniels

Minister of Fire
Hearth Supporter
Dec 6, 2005
540
Rome, NY, USA
Hi Guys,

I have a friend that wants to heat a 3800 sq. ft. old farmhouse in upstate NY. He needs some serious heating capacity. My Isle Royale only does 2500 ft and so do the Jotul Oslo or Firelight.

Do you guys know of stoves with a larger capacity? I can only think of the Heartstone 1 but it is not EPA approved. It does provide 100,000 BTU.

Or does he have to resort to using 2 stoves?

Thanks

Carpniels
 
I would think that two stoves of smaller BTU would provide more even heat as opposed to one giant unit...unless you are talking about a central heating unit or some type of wood furnace.

Corey
 
That Englander B.B. recently bought has a large firebox, 3.5 cf I believe. I'm with Cozy, makes much more sense to install 2 and spread the heat around easier.
 
Blaze King King 1107. Has a fire boxx of 4.27 cu ft burns a up to 82.5% effeciency. One huge heating beast
 
carpniels said:
Hi Guys,

I have a friend that wants to heat a 3800 sq. ft. old farmhouse in upstate NY. He needs some serious heating capacity. My Isle Royale only does 2500 ft and so do the Jotul Oslo or Firelight.

Two stoves
Even a YOOOGE one is going to have shortcomings as Dylan referred to.
 
Older farmhouses are not usually an open concept. If the home is broken up inside and there are ducts available I would consider a wood furnace. We heat our 150+ year old home with one and it works great. We don't get the romance of the flame because its located in the basement, but we get good even heat throughout the whole home. If getting a furnace I would consider one to be able to install in series with the main furnace. This will put little to no restrictions on the air flow and produce more heat through the home. One thing with a furnace is the ductwork has to be sized right to put the right amount of heat in the rooms. Also ever though of a wood boiler? That might be a better option. Good luck
 
Are they looking for wood to be the primary heat source?

Hearthstone is supposed to have a new mongo model out in the spring...msg has more specifics...i think it was up in 100,000 btu and she tips the scales at over 800 lbs of hearth love...For a reference the mansfield has 3.2 cf firebox and 590 lbs..
 
Two Wood stoves
or
1 big wood stove and a second gas or lp heater
or
a wood furnace.

even a 7 cf fire box is not going to heat a large house very even unless the house is designed to be heated totally with a wood stove.
The advantage to a farm house style home is 99% were built to be heated with wood and or coal and if the stove is located correct should do a really good job.
 
Per MSG, there is a new Uber-Hearthstone coming out this year... called the G.B.F.S., or the Equinox, one or the other. The specs are:

A lager stove then the Mansfield rated at 100,000-120,000 btus.
4.5 cubic foot firebox.
26 inch log capacity
Side load door.
850 LBS


Here's a thread on the topic:
Hearthstone GBFS

-- Mike
 
How about this 200,000 BTU/HR bad boy.

Ebay - Huge wood stove It even says it will heat the largest three story farm house there is with a 50 year guarantee against burn-through. And oh yeah beware the evils of firebrick that stuff is like witchcraft.
 
Burn-1 said:
How about this 200,000 BTU/HR bad boy.

Ebay - Huge wood stove It even says it will heat the largest three story farm house there is with a 50 year guarantee against burn-through. And oh yeah beware the evils of firebrick that stuff is like witchcraft.

I actually kinda agree with the guy on the bricks. My old insert only had them on the bottom. The stove body was 1/4" steel and the top was 3/8". On the day it went out there wasn't a warped panel in sight. Even after three major overfires. Try that with a 3/16" steel stove. Bricks or no bricks.

And call us from the Holiday Inn.
 
Burn-1 said:
How about this 200,000 BTU/HR bad boy.


200,000 BTU/Hr... why not just light the living room furniture on fire and call it even???

Honey, where are the kids???
Oh, they spontaneously combusted dear... I told them not to get near that new stove.

-- Mike
 
I was going to suggest the same stove as Elk - Blaze King. 90K BTUs and they claim up to 40 hour burn time on a full load...really?...wow!
 
tutu_sue said:
I was going to suggest the same stove as Elk - Blaze King. 90K BTUs and they claim up to 40 hour burn time on a full load...really?...wow!

We have to keep in mind the stove is not 82.5% efficient at 40 hour burn time.

Do a search on "blaze king" stove here and read the # that are posted on the stove.
I talked to a dealer and was told after the second call that the efficiency is from 6-7 hours.
 
Are you interested in a coal stove?
Keystoker makes coal stoves over 100,000 btu and coal furnaces up to 400,000 btu. And fan up to 350 CFDM. As mentioned earlier the key is your air circulation and room layout. But for large areas without good insulation I believe coal is the way to go. I heat over 3500 sf of old, uninsulated, multi floor home, over 350 sqft of old single pane windows with only coal hot air and no ductwork.
 
Mike Wilson said:
Burn-1 said:
How about this 200,000 BTU/HR bad boy.


200,000 BTU/Hr... why not just light the living room furniture on fire and call it even???

Honey, where are the kids???
Oh, they spontaneously combusted dear... I told them not to get near that new stove.

-- Mike

I like thes lines:
With these new "LIFETIME WOOD STOVES", you can cut your labor in half by burning larger pieces of wood. With the huge firebox (10 cubic feet!) you won't have to
keep feeding it several times a day


We all know how easy it is to cut split and stack 3 foot logs, let alone lug them into the house to load it.

You can burn anything in these stoves and the warranty stands.....

So all those kiln dried hardwoods scraps are good to go? Load er up!

Flame deflector to keep flames from shooting up the chimney.

Yeah, your gunna need that when you load er up with lumber.

A stove loaded with firebrick is a warning sign! Manufacturers use
firebrick to protect thin firebox walls. As a result the heat is
slowed from getting to the outside, causing heat loss up the
chimney. Firebrick will have to be replaced yearly and if a brick falls
out of place, a hole will be burned through the firebox, rendering the
stove unusable . Brick also reduces the size of the firebox.


So, this toolbox knows more about woodstoves than Morso, VC, Jotul ETC? I didnt know we had a modern day Da Vinci right here in the good old US of A
 
Yeah it was, fixed it thanks.
Now you can just fix yours :)
 
BrotherBart said:
Burn-1 said:
How about this 200,000 BTU/HR bad boy.

Ebay - Huge wood stove It even says it will heat the largest three story farm house there is with a 50 year guarantee against burn-through. And oh yeah beware the evils of firebrick that stuff is like witchcraft.

I actually kinda agree with the guy on the bricks. My old insert only had them on the bottom. The stove body was 1/4" steel and the top was 3/8". On the day it went out there wasn't a warped panel in sight. Even after three major overfires. Try that with a 3/16" steel stove. Bricks or no bricks.

And call us from the Holiday Inn.

I do not. He says they are used to protect thin firebox walls. Well they do but their main propose is and has always been to insulate the fire from the surrounding cold bodies, (room air or in a boiler water) to get a more efficient clean and complete burn.

The best way to burn wood would be to completely separate the combustion part from the heat exchange part. Have a very well insulated firebox in which all combustion takes place, the incoming air is externally preheated and the only thing that leaves the box are the very hot, incandescent, gases the heat from which is extracted by a heat exchanger. That way both processes, burning and heat extraction, can be optimized.

Stoves as we know them try to compromise and combine the two for a more compact design, this results in parts of the walls being covered by the firebrick while other parts of the same steel plate are exposed to much higher temperatures. The unequal heating results in very high stresses in the plate which cause the warping and cracks.

The brute force design solution is to use thick plates that are strong enough to resist the forces for the life of the stove. Much more elegant solution is to work with the forces directing them such that they do no harm, and equalize the heating as much as possible. This is done by avoiding large flat plates and sharp corners and instead using curves and radiuses. Think of the barrel stove the flat ends get warped but the cylindrical part does not and every one I have ever seen was frequently fired to the point it glowed.

A simple flat sided sharp cornered box is much easier faster and cheaper to build so guess which solution is favored by manufactures. :)
 
I'd wonder if that big E-bay stove was even LEGAL! It sounds like the guy makes them himself, he "estimates" the output at 200K, but no mention of a testing lab. Ditto the description of his clearance reccomendations, and I did't see word one of anything about EPA certs or any kind of modern secondary combustion technology.

I noticed that Elk says you aren't supposed to have HVAC returns near the stove, but this guy seems to be advocating tieing right into the duct work. Elk, would you say this guy never heard of code?

Perhaps its because that thing looks more to me like it was designed as a crude wood furnace rather than as a stove? It certainly looks more like a basement monster than something that you would put in the living room.

Gooserider
 
Gooserider said:
I'd wonder if that big E-bay stove was even LEGAL! It sounds like the guy makes them himself, he "estimates" the output at 200K, but no mention of a testing lab. Ditto the description of his clearance reccomendations, and I did't see word one of anything about EPA certs or any kind of modern secondary combustion technology.

If he makes less than fifty of them a year the EPA blows him off as exempt.
 
The Quad 7100 has a multi zone ducted blower and claims "3500" sf worth of heat (90,000btu)... kind a pricy though.... thermostaticly controllled as well.
(broken link removed to http://www.quadrafire.com/products/fireplaces/woodFireplaceDetail.asp?f=7100fp)
 
BrotherBart said:
Gooserider said:
I'd wonder if that big E-bay stove was even LEGAL! It sounds like the guy makes them himself, he "estimates" the output at 200K, but no mention of a testing lab. Ditto the description of his clearance reccomendations, and I did't see word one of anything about EPA certs or any kind of modern secondary combustion technology.

If he makes less than fifty of them a year the EPA blows him off as exempt.

That makes sense (unusal for our Gov't to do something that does...) but I wonder about UL? Would those things count as "" stoves - and need more clearances than the guy states, or is someone installing one kissing their homeowners insurance goodbye?

I'd hate to be the customer that installed it per this guy's sales pitch and then had to either yank it out or even just move it because of clearance issues....

Some of the stuff in that guy's post seemed sort of alarming:

"Heavy 1/8" outer jacket for quiet operation.......absolutely no vibration noise. You can also stack 200lbs of wood on top for drying."

Sounds like real CTC problem to me...

"8" flue for 8 inch stove pipe to chimney....... use a reducer for 6" stove pipe to chimney."

I don't see how he can get that big a firebox cleared with a 6" opening - even some of the more reasonably sized large modern stoves require an 8" flue... Has this been tested?

"The stove has a 2 inch space between the firebox and jacket and the air is replaced 2 1/2 times per second. The outside of the stove gets up to approxamately 230* and as you can see in one of my pics, it is almost touching wood. However, the front of the stove gets hot so you should not have anything close to it "

Again, UL tested? I've seen the setup they use at VC to get certified, and it's certainly more than "I guess" and the numbers are a bit more exact than "almost touching" or "don't get close". I'd also wonder what happens when the blower cuts out, either because of a power failure, or the house thermostat shutting it off...

Gooserider
 
Gooserider said:
BrotherBart said:
Gooserider said:
I'd wonder if that big E-bay stove was even LEGAL! It sounds like the guy makes them himself, he "estimates" the output at 200K, but no mention of a testing lab. Ditto the description of his clearance reccomendations, and I did't see word one of anything about EPA certs or any kind of modern secondary combustion technology.

If he makes less than fifty of them a year the EPA blows him off as exempt.

That makes sense (unusal for our Gov't to do something that does...) but I wonder about UL? Would those things count as "" stoves - and need more clearances than the guy states, or is someone installing one kissing their homeowners insurance goodbye?

I'd hate to be the customer that installed it per this guy's sales pitch and then had to either yank it out or even just move it because of clearance issues....

Some of the stuff in that guy's post seemed sort of alarming:

"Heavy 1/8" outer jacket for quiet operation.......absolutely no vibration noise. You can also stack 200lbs of wood on top for drying."

Sounds like real CTC problem to me...

"8" flue for 8 inch stove pipe to chimney....... use a reducer for 6" stove pipe to chimney."

I don't see how he can get that big a firebox cleared with a 6" opening - even some of the more reasonably sized large modern stoves require an 8" flue... Has this been tested?

"The stove has a 2 inch space between the firebox and jacket and the air is replaced 2 1/2 times per second. The outside of the stove gets up to approxamately 230* and as you can see in one of my pics, it is almost touching wood. However, the front of the stove gets hot so you should not have anything close to it "

Again, UL tested? I've seen the setup they use at VC to get certified, and it's certainly more than "I guess" and the numbers are a bit more exact than "almost touching" or "don't get close". I'd also wonder what happens when the blower cuts out, either because of a power failure, or the house thermostat shutting it off...

Gooserider
I emailed Dick a few years back and no the stoves are not EPA tested or up to any standards nor are they UL listed . He said nobody should have a problem with insurance when installed ................well not when you dont tell them.
The stove is being sold as a wood furnace , he had no sales per the internet the first few years but had a couple this year , unsure what he sells local if any .
 
[quote author="Mike Wilson" date="1166599616"]Per MSG, there is a new Uber-Hearthstone coming out this year... called the G.B.F.S., or the Equinox, one or the other.

GBFS? is that great big F....... stove? , i like it i like it ,chuckle
 
BrotherBart said:
Gooserider said:
I'd wonder if that big E-bay stove was even LEGAL! It sounds like the guy makes them himself, he "estimates" the output at 200K, but no mention of a testing lab. Ditto the description of his clearance reccomendations, and I did't see word one of anything about EPA certs or any kind of modern secondary combustion technology.

If he makes less than fifty of them a year the EPA blows him off as exempt.
true they may write him off as exempt , but the unit still has to be safety tested even if it is exempt, otherwise its illegal to use even in a locale that allows epa exempt units, there is still a constraint that must be met and that has to be tested and approved by ul listed testing facility sucxh as omni or warnock hersey
 
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