We have a Big house in a cold climate, with a Long (6" x 25') Chimney. The current stove is an Englander 30 and the family wants more heat, more heat, MORE Heat (did I say, more heat?) 'Someone' says the Englander can do 75,000btu; I know we are not getting that, perhaps 20k in my world. We are learning more about burning wood, we have nice dry wood and we burn the stove with a hot bed of red coals. It is a nice fire when going.
(http://www.englandsstoveworks.com/30-nc.html)
Well, the house meets what the State of Alaska calls the BEES standard (Building Energy Efficiency Standard) but tall ceilings, lost of floor space and lots of windows mean lots of heat loss. We often heat only with wood with the englander, but we cannot get the house above 55 degrees when really cold out. What is cold out? I will say cold out is about 20 below zero Fahrenheit. When we are at about 20 degrees above we are doing good with a small fan pointed right at the front glass of the stove.
Did I write where I am? Well I am from Willow, Alaska. It gets cold here, but only to about 30 below f. Regularly we are at 5f below in the winter.
So, around these parts of Alaska, I am told the best selling stove is the Blaze King Princess/Classic. This is a stove that would work for me, but I am concerned that we will get 'enough more' heat out of it.
My preference is for a Blaze King King Classic. That is a monster. Especially if it is an 80's model. Almost scary hot, if you know what I mean. And it calls for an 8" chimney.
So, having a long cold 25' long chimney means a cold chimney and likely Back Puffing when loading. The Englander 30 already has an issue. See my drafting issue video at
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hx1upJrejfs
But, if we open the throttle on a stove with 8" chimney before opening the door, get the chimney good and warm, then the 6" could actually be a good choice, as we will have a warmer chimney, rt??
Let me make some assumptions:
1. We do not carry insurance, and inspection is not an issue, but I do not want to do anything dumb; it has to be a safe install.
2. I could redo the 6" chimney to 8", but I do not like the idea.
3. The stove sits in the middle of a room and catching a wall on fire is not an issue
4 the current stove, the Englander, has a u shaped coil in it that is tied to an aquastat that turns on a pump that feeds the farthest faucet in the house when the water gets to 130 f temperature. I would like to have the new stove have some arrangement, perhaps not inside the stove, but some arrangement to heat water similar to what I am doing.
5. We almost always have a moose stew cooking on the stove top and we like a large stove surface for cooking.
6. We burn dry dry Black spruce that is smaller in dia, about 4" typical.
Any suggestions for the 'hottest' stove around? Did I say we need more heat? What about the King King Classic and deal with some smoke back puff...
I am told to avoid the gimmicks to increase draft either with the auto draft inducer or a stack-top draft inducer.
(http://www.englandsstoveworks.com/30-nc.html)
Well, the house meets what the State of Alaska calls the BEES standard (Building Energy Efficiency Standard) but tall ceilings, lost of floor space and lots of windows mean lots of heat loss. We often heat only with wood with the englander, but we cannot get the house above 55 degrees when really cold out. What is cold out? I will say cold out is about 20 below zero Fahrenheit. When we are at about 20 degrees above we are doing good with a small fan pointed right at the front glass of the stove.
Did I write where I am? Well I am from Willow, Alaska. It gets cold here, but only to about 30 below f. Regularly we are at 5f below in the winter.
So, around these parts of Alaska, I am told the best selling stove is the Blaze King Princess/Classic. This is a stove that would work for me, but I am concerned that we will get 'enough more' heat out of it.
My preference is for a Blaze King King Classic. That is a monster. Especially if it is an 80's model. Almost scary hot, if you know what I mean. And it calls for an 8" chimney.
So, having a long cold 25' long chimney means a cold chimney and likely Back Puffing when loading. The Englander 30 already has an issue. See my drafting issue video at
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hx1upJrejfs
But, if we open the throttle on a stove with 8" chimney before opening the door, get the chimney good and warm, then the 6" could actually be a good choice, as we will have a warmer chimney, rt??
Let me make some assumptions:
1. We do not carry insurance, and inspection is not an issue, but I do not want to do anything dumb; it has to be a safe install.
2. I could redo the 6" chimney to 8", but I do not like the idea.
3. The stove sits in the middle of a room and catching a wall on fire is not an issue
4 the current stove, the Englander, has a u shaped coil in it that is tied to an aquastat that turns on a pump that feeds the farthest faucet in the house when the water gets to 130 f temperature. I would like to have the new stove have some arrangement, perhaps not inside the stove, but some arrangement to heat water similar to what I am doing.
5. We almost always have a moose stew cooking on the stove top and we like a large stove surface for cooking.
6. We burn dry dry Black spruce that is smaller in dia, about 4" typical.
Any suggestions for the 'hottest' stove around? Did I say we need more heat? What about the King King Classic and deal with some smoke back puff...
I am told to avoid the gimmicks to increase draft either with the auto draft inducer or a stack-top draft inducer.