Best Way to Tarp Your Wood?

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jscs.moore

Feeling the Heat
Sep 9, 2015
291
Eastern PA
Hey Guys...I've been burning wood for about 3 years now in my Hampton HI300 insert. Having gone through the whole wet wood stuff in my first season I can now confidently say I have caught the dry wood religion:) However, I have struggled with the whole tarp thing. I store about 4 cords in my yard and have used the crappy hardware store plastic tarps, but always find that they tear and wear out pretty quickly.

So I'm looking for advice on the best way to effectively tarp my wood. I can't afford, nor have time, to build a wood shed. I have looked on-line for some of the upgraded tarps from places like woodland direct and other sites, but they are ridiculously expensive to cover a basic 8x4 woodrack...about $150 bucks! Anyway, we had so much rain this past summer and fall...I want to really protect my wood this year and looking for the most effective way to tarp. Been thinking about doubling up on the cheapy tarps and using bungee cords to cinch them down tight?
 
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Hey Guys...I've been burning wood for about 3 years now in my Hampton HI300 insert. Having gone through the whole wet wood stuff in my first season I can now confidently say I have caught the dry wood religion:) However, I have struggled with the whole tarp thing. I store about 4 cords in my yard and have used the crappy hardware store plastic tarps, but always find that they tear and wear out pretty quickly.

So I'm looking for advice on the best way to effectively tarp my wood. I can't afford, nor have time, to build a wood shed. I have looked on-line for some of the upgraded tarps from places like woodland direct and other sites, but they are ridiculously expensive to cover a basic 8x4 woodrack...about $150 bucks! Anyway, we had so much rain this past summer and fall...I want to really protect my wood this year and looking for the most effective way to tarp. Been thinking about doubling up on the cheapy tarps and using bungee cords to cinch them down tight?
Find some used metal roofing or rubber roofing
 
I use all old rubber roofing take-offs.
 
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Rubber roofing is hard to get in some areas, I've been looking for over 5 years and I only scored one 4 x 8 piece, still looking.
 
I leave the wood im burning that winter uncovered spring and summer, (doesnt matter or dont care how much it rains) cover late August/Early September with these 4 x 20 tarps and drill sheet rock screws with washers through the eyelets right into the splits...I single stacked rows with room to walk between obviously....

https://www.thetarpswholesaler.com/...jCQc8ofRAYaNaw5y3rP8_z47J3UjKU3saAjrPEALw_wcB

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I sucked it up and shelled out for one of those oiled canvas ones... those cheap ones are easily punctured if they rest on a pointy bit of wood with the weight of rain/snow on them for a season, and open sun absolutely roasts them. Those oiled canvas tarps are way harder (though not impossible) to rip, but they can stand up to the weather for, well, years so far (temperature ranges from 20s to 110s here any given year). Rips in these canvas ones tend to be user error, so I don't really fault the tarp for it. In practice though, I'll use random things too (recycling an old yoga mat and a bad air mattress in these roles as I type this).

Opinions vary about how to apply tarps. For me: if it's split, it's covered. While I have a ton of wood in the bank for future years (decks of wood in various stages of seasoning), I'm only one to two years ahead with actual splits. These get top covered during the rainy season only (I take it back off in the dry season to let the sun and wind hit them fully). If these were stacked in a flat open field where rain with a horizontal component was a thing, I would also tarp that side.

I recycle old bicycle inner tubes that are beyond repair for tie downs; the hooks are from bungee cords I've scrounged on the sides of the road (I don't know about anyone else, but once you start looking, they're everywhere). Cut the tube to the length desired, knot into the hook ends, and lock that tarp down.

I do layer the splits at the top upon which the tarp will rest with the smoothest surfaces facing up (to avoid punctures and stress points), and with a slight rise in the center (to avoid depressions where water can pool and strain the tarp).
 
My harbor freight green tarps are going on 3 seasons now with practically no holes. Some are getting worn but they still are holding up. I think I get the 8x12'or 10x15' and just lay them out, fold them over a few times and run them over the stacks. I think both are less than $20 each. I weigh them down with little wood rounds or ugly splits. Some areas I have tied down either with bungees or rope.
 
I used hardware store tarps, and they are dying. This is also my first season, so I've been in overdrive cutting, splitting, and stacking. I've made a few improvised wood racks out of old lumber and pallets. To make it easier I screwed in some steel eyelets and tied the tarp grommets to the eyelets with nylon cord. I find that if the tarps don't flap, they don't get torn up. I also busted a few grommets over tightening the cords.

Since I'm behind, I even uncover the stacks when the weather is nice, even though it's winter. I also need every bit of firewood.
 
I store my wood to be used in single, maybe double file along an inside garage wall.

My stacks, I put the black plastic from Home Depot on it, but it does puncture easily.

I once got some plywood and put some plastic over that when I was going to store the winter wood on the driveway, and held it down with strings tied to screws in the wood.

It's all a PITA compared with the garage.
 
I'm honestly surprised at how well the Harbor Freight tarps hold up given other people's stories of other tarps going to crap after a season.

HF also often has coupons for free 5'x7' tarps with any purchase. They are small and of cheaper quality, but I have so many of them from those coupons that once they go bad, I don't feel bad throwing them out.


I would love rubber roofing material as a permanent solution. It's extremely expensive though. There's an ad on Craigslist for rolls of it that are almost a thousand bucks. I would need nearly 3 grand worth of it to cover all of my stacks currently. No thanks....
 
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Good point..it's all in the eye of the beholder:)
I suspect to the op's wife, tarps are temporary, once something of higher quality goes down, starts to feel permanent.

Make no mistake, blue tarps all over the yard and water closet flower planters are proud flags. I've got the blue tarps, and the old wc ready to go. The Woman is vetoing the wc planter, but I'm probably going to do it next spring. The neighbors will love it!
 
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If you'd like an honest opinion that may deviate from the norm on this site... I say forgo the tarps all together! To me, it is much more of a hassle and cost prohibitive than what it is worth to tarp my stacked wood. The way I figure, if it's rained or snowed a little bit before I bring it in to my garage to stack it on racks (easier access for the wife to bring it in to the stove than walking outside), I just leave the air on the stove open a little bit longer.

If you really split and stack wood outside for two or three years, a little rain water or snow on top of it here or there is not going to affect its moisture content to the point where you can't burn it. I have a stove full of two year old cut, split, an stacked ash in the stove right now that was never covered. Stove top temps are around 500 degrees (soapstone stove), similar stack temperatures, and great secondary combustion/burn.

Although, I'm a minimalist, so take it for what it's worth.
 
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If you'd like an honest opinion that may deviate from the norm on this site... I say forgo the tarps all together! To me, it is much more of a hassle and cost prohibitive than what it is worth to tarp my stacked wood. The way I figure, if it's rained or snowed a little bit before I bring it in to my garage to stack it on racks (easier access for the wife to bring it in to the stove than walking outside), I just leave the air on the stove open a little bit longer.

If you really split and stack wood outside for two or three years, a little rain water or snow on top of it here or there is not going to affect its moisture content to the point where you can't burn it. I have a stove full of two year old cut, split, an stacked ash in the stove right now that was never covered. Stove top temps are around 500 degrees (soapstone stove), similar stack temperatures, and great secondary combustion/burn.

Although, I'm a minimalist, so take it for what it's worth.
My fully seasoned wood would be soaking wet all winter, fire weak, cool and smoky, chimney full of creasote.

I listened to foolish posts like this to my detriment, one season.

Cover your stacks, or regret it come winter.
 
I listened to foolish posts like this to my detriment, one season.

Cover your stacks, or regret it come winter.[/QUOTE]

To each his own. I only offer my own personal experience with a warm home heated with uncovered wood that has been CSS for two plus years and burned in an EPA approved stove. If I am considered foolish, I would hate to see what you think of the old timers from late that started heating their homes with wood to abstain from high oil prices.
 
Sen166- I had a night to sleep on it, and apologize for the foolish comment.

Brilliant people say and do silly things all the time. As I don't know you at all, there's no way I could have been commenting on you, just your one post. So, please, nothing personal intended.

All that said, I took a chance against my better judgement, and left my well seasoned wood uncovered based on posts like yours. And I paid the price.

Now, I have a strong, experience based opinion, that it is a terrible idea to leave your stacks uncovered in the Mid-Atlantic or other similar areas, if you want a quality, clean burning experience.

If you had a dry year in Michigan, and you have dry wood to burn, having left it uncovered, fine.

My guess is, with a couple of tarps or other roof, you could be a better neighbor (less smoke), have a hotter, cleaner fire, cleaner chimney.

My point was to warn other people not to listen to your bad advice about stuffing damp wood into their wood burner. Nothing personal intended whatsoever.
 
I have always left all wood uncovered until the late summer of the year I’m burning. I’m usually 3-4 years ahead, and figure out dry summers do them well uncovered.

It has always worked great for me, until this year, when we got Seattle’s weather.
 
I have always left all wood uncovered until the late summer of the year I’m burning. I’m usually 3-4 years ahead, and figure out dry summers do them well uncovered.

It has always worked great for me, until this year, when we got Seattle’s weather.
I have wood at my parents house that I css for them, they have a shed on one stack, tarp on another. Year round. Just down the road, identical climate.

They had several massive trees - 40" trunks, taken down three years ago. I left 3/4 there, took 1/4.

Last year their wood from this cadre was bone dry. Mine, covered only from September 1, was of middling quality, moisture-wise. This year, no contest- their's, still bone dry, mine, sopping.

That's enough of a controlled experiment for me.

Covered at least 3 months ahead, better yet, top covered as soon as the initial green wet is out. Plus, it keeps the debris out.
 
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Im all about Hillbilly. Oh wait.. I live in Tennessee lol


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Mine isn't hillbilly. I have single row racks built out of pallets with metal roofing attached
 
Sen166- I had a night to sleep on it, and apologize for the foolish comment.

Brilliant people say and do silly things all the time. As I don't know you at all, there's no way I could have been commenting on you, just your one post. So, please, nothing personal intended.

All that said, I took a chance against my better judgement, and left my well seasoned wood uncovered based on posts like yours. And I paid the price.

Now, I have a strong, experience based opinion, that it is a terrible idea to leave your stacks uncovered in the Mid-Atlantic or other similar areas, if you want a quality, clean burning experience.

If you had a dry year in Michigan, and you have dry wood to burn, having left it uncovered, fine.

My guess is, with a couple of tarps or other roof, you could be a better neighbor (less smoke), have a hotter, cleaner fire, cleaner chimney.

My point was to warn other people not to listen to your bad advice about stuffing damp wood into their wood burner. Nothing personal intended whatsoever.
OP here...yes, I agree that we all have to be careful with the don't worry about tarping advice. I actually left about 2 cords of my wood uncovered this past year and paid the price. With all the rain we had in my area of Eastern PA, I ended up with a lot of moisture and mold on my uncovered wood. This has never happened to me before and was really annoying. This is the main reason I am going to make sure when I get a new load of cord wood delivered in the next month or so...I cover all of it with good heavy duty tarps and cinch them down with rope or bungee cords. Never want to deal with mold on my precious firewood again:(
 
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