Best Way to 'Reconstruct' Cast Iron Stove

[erice]

I have a 21 year old Dutchwest Convection Mod 2460 that has served me well, but is beyond it's 'silver years'. Unfortunately, a year ago I bought about $400 of replacement parts for it and would like to squeeze another year or two out of it. And get it functional asap since it's going to get cool here sooner than I can decide on a new stove, order,it, and get it set up.

The biggest (only?) problem with the stove is that one side of the inner top, and inner top web, have warped, like 1/2", so it it is almost impossible to get an airtight seal around the catalytic converter.

The stove was cemented together when it was set up so I can't just replace those parts. I've taken a grinder to what I could get at and gotten it to the point where can sort of get the pieces to fit loosely together. I hope I can, using a combination of stove cement and/or gasket material, get it into usable shape, while I figure out what I want to buy to replace it.

My question is, what is the best way to 'fill in' gaps up to 1/2" wide to make the converter and other parts airtight? Stove cement and/or gasket material, or ? What kind of stove cement?

Please excuse the fuzzy photo. Thank you for your ideas/advice.

Eric

 

[bholler]

Honestly the only way to fix that is to replace the parts. It is warped way to bad to patch in any way

 

[Hogwildz]

Time for a new stove

 

[erice]

I have a 21 year old Dutchwest Convection Mod 2460 that has served me well, but is beyond it's 'silver years'. Unfortunately, a year ago I bought about $400 of replacement parts for it and would like to squeeze another year or two out of it. And get it functional asap since it's going to get cool here sooner than I can decide on a new stove, order,it, and get it set up.

The biggest (only?) problem with the stove is that one side of the inner top, and inner top web, have warped, like 1/2", so it it is almost impossible to get an airtight seal around the catalytic converter.

The stove was cemented together when it was set up so I can't just replace those parts. I've taken a grinder to what I could get at and gotten it to the point where can sort of get the pieces to fit loosely together. I hope I can, using a combination of stove cement and/or gasket material, get it into usable shape, while I figure out what I want to buy to replace it.

My question is, what is the best way to 'fill in' gaps up to 1/2" wide to make the converter and other parts airtight? Stove cement and/or gasket material, or ? What kind of stove cement?View attachment 200218

Please excuse the fuzzy photo. Thank you for your ideas/advice.

Eric

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OK, I get it! In the short term, I will put it back together and use it to warm up the house in the mornings. In the medium term, I'll look for a replacement.... Any reason why that won't work?

 

[WoodyIsGoody]

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OK, I get it! In the short term, I will put it back together and use it to warm up the house in the mornings. In the medium term, I'll look for a replacement.... Any reason why that won't work?

I'm not sure you get it. It's not safe.

 

[Hogwildz]

Bluntly...junk that thing before it becomes a bigger issue, get a new one, and enjoy the pc of mind and wood savings.

 

[defiant3]

Or rebuild it!! I've done lots of them and I'm not that smart!

 

[defiant3]

Maybe tht's why I've done so many, bt seriously, top comes off, front and back come off, remove left side and lift and seperate inner top. Child's play.

 

[bholler]

Maybe tht's why I've done so many, bt seriously, top comes off, front and back come off, remove left side and lift and seperate inner top. Child's play.

Yes but after all that work and money you still have an old dutch west. For their time they were very good stoves. But their time was long ago. To me it is not worth the time or effort. That being said i have done quite a few and it is not that hard. One just has to seriously question if it is worth it.

 

[Manly]

Or rebuild it!! I've done lots of them and I'm not that smart!

Yes I agree with you on both counts. I've rebuilt a few models myself, and I am not smart at all, in fact most who know me consider me an idiot stick. That being said maybe the smart thing to do is not rebuild for all the good reasons previously stated. But then hey, what do I know. I'm just an idiot.

 

[jetsam]

Yes I agree with you on both counts. I've rebuilt a few models myself, and I am not smart at all, in fact most who know me consider me an idiot stick. That being said maybe the smart thing to do is not rebuild for all the good reasons previously stated. But then hey, what do I know. I'm just an idiot.

Pointy dog alert! You need a picture of him in front of the stove....

 

[georgepds]

Yes I agree with you on both counts. I've rebuilt a few models myself, and I am not smart at all, in fact most who know me consider me an idiot stick. That being said maybe the smart thing to do is not rebuild for all the good reasons previously stated. But then hey, what do I know. I'm just an idiot.

Can't be all that bad... you found this place

 

[VirginiaIron]

I have a 21 year old Dutchwest Convection Mod 2460 that has served me well, but is beyond it's 'silver years'. Unfortunately, a year ago I bought about $400 of replacement parts for it and would like to squeeze another year or two out of it. And get it functional asap since it's going to get cool here sooner than I can decide on a new stove, order,it, and get it set up.

The biggest (only?) problem with the stove is that one side of the inner top, and inner top web, have warped, like 1/2", so it it is almost impossible to get an airtight seal around the catalytic converter.

The stove was cemented together when it was set up so I can't just replace those parts. I've taken a grinder to what I could get at and gotten it to the point where can sort of get the pieces to fit loosely together. I hope I can, using a combination of stove cement and/or gasket material, get it into usable shape, while I figure out what I want to buy to replace it.

My question is, what is the best way to 'fill in' gaps up to 1/2" wide to make the converter and other parts airtight? Stove cement and/or gasket material, or ? What kind of stove cement?View attachment 200218

Please excuse the fuzzy photo. Thank you for your ideas/advice.

Eric

If I understand the post correctly you have the replacement parts but you cannot remove the previous sealing cement to get a smooth metal to metal surface contact. With that said, if the $400 of replacement parts (you've already purchased) makes the stove factory new go for it.
I have used a dremmel in some tight spaces to get at old material that needs to be removed. A small grinding bit should get into corners well enough to remove old material in order to close the gaps so you have a metal on metal fit. You can go to one of the big automotive stores and get an inspection mirror to help you look at those hidden areas. Do not use the stove if the use of your stove is illegal, or it's design is compromised due to defective or damaged parts, or if you are using improperly installed and/or improperly sealed parts. [Edit- any high temp, high quality stove cement designed for that purpose should be sufficient to seal the previously sealed areas (that used cement) once you have cleaned the surface properly].
Good luck and keep us posted.