Best Oregon chain for Husqvarna 372XP

[John_M]

Will be having a load of logs as large as 22" diameter delivered within the month. Will probably also purchase a Husky 372XP w/20" bar to be used almost exclusively as a bucking saw for this "dirty" wood. This great saw is overkill for this purpose but I prefer some overkill to some underkill. I do not know how many teeth are on the drive sprocket on the 372XP. My only other saw is the Stihl MS250 which is also excellent for its intended purpose.

Some questions: 1) Should I purchase the saw with a 24" bar instead of the 20"?; 2) What is the best Oregon chain to use for this wood considering its diameter and dirtiness?; 3) Which Husqvarna bar is best for this purpose considering the pitch and gauge of the chain and the compatability of bar length, gauge, nose sprocket and saw drive sprocket? 4) Any other advice which I may have forgotten to ask about.

This is a lot of saw for me to handle even when wearing all the necessary PPE. However, I have a younger and stronger buddy who would love to buck these logs using my new saw, I hope.

I have already checked out the various saw candidates from Stihl and Dolmar dealers and have settled on the 372XP as having the best combination of features, dealership support and proximity, etc. for me.

Best wishes,

John_M

 

[HittinSteel]

(broken link removed)

John, take a look at the Oregon link above. The LGX is Oregon's "full chisel" chain. This should be the fastest cutting chain in clean wood. For dirty wood consider the DP which is "semi chisel". This chain will keep an edge longer in tough cutting conditions.

Also look at Bailey's website. They offer bar and chain combos. If I was cutting logs up to 22" I would stay with a 20" bar.

Your dealer should also be able to help you get the right chain for your needs. Make sure to tell them you want non-safety "semi chisel" chain. My guess is that saw would run 72 drive links but I can't say for sure.

Good luck and that is one heckuva a saw. If I were buying new, that would be my choice for firewood.

 

[savageactor7]

Because we drag trees through the mud (no rocks) we needed that kind of chain too. After trying out a few dealer recommendations settled on the 73LGX.

 

[fyrwoodguy]

i'd go with the 24" .058 bar and 73 JGX oregon saw chain....it's skip chain....if you no like you can go back to 73 LGX

 

[Jack33]

I have 3 of these equipped with a 20", 24", and 28". I prefer the 24" because the saw is better balanced with that length. I'm also tall so it helps with bucking and leaning over. I run LGX on the 20 and 24 and JGX on the 28. Stihl chain is better but costs more. FYI Husqvarna chain is made by Oregon. Once you run this saw...you won't put it down and your buddy will be the one running the MS250.

 

[John_M]

Thanks for the help, guys. When the time comes I will order the 372XP with standard Husqvarna 24", 3/8"pitch, .058 bar/chain combo. Will then order the matching 20" Oregon bar with 73 LGX chain and a 73 JGX full-skip chain for the 24" Husky bar. I'll double check this figure but I believe the 24" bar takes an 84 link 73 JGX chain.

Spent much of today doing the background checking for this purchse. My closest dealer, a really nice guy, is about 15 minutes away but he has very limited knowledge about this saw and chain. He didn't have a 20" or 24" bar or the necessary chain in stock. However, he could get them "in a day or so". Service and guarantee work would probably be a questionable success with his service guys. Another dealer (also a nice guy) is about 35 minutes away. He and his staff are very knowledgeable about the saw and the various bar/chain combos available. They have multiples of everything in stock. For reasons of warrranty and service I will probably purchase the saw through him.

First things first, though. I will purchase the saw when I know the logs are on their way.

Again, thanks for the recommendations.

Best,

John_M

 

[ken999]

Cutting firewood doesn't reguire a longer bar or special chain. Nor is a 372 overkill. I bought a 385 for the same purpose. Big saws simply cut wood faster. Stick with the stock 20" bar and full chisel chain. Save your money for extra chains and not longer than necessary bars.

 

[SolarAndWood]

I run a 20" with the LGX through plenty of dirty skid behind a tractor logs. If you are buying two bars, maybe a 20 and a 28 are in order.

 

[savageactor7]

John M if you haven't gotten your saw yet you should check out Kahlers http://www.gksales.net/
Very good sales and service ...been trading with them since the Regan Administration.

 

[HittinSteel]

John, I would definitely buy from the dealer that is a little farther away with more knowledge. He will make sure you are set up right to begin with. This is a pro saw and with the right mix ratio you may not need dealer support for a long time. When you do, the 35 minute drive is not a big deal.

 

[John_M]

A very embarrassing follow-up: Went to GK Sales (thanks , Savageactor) and they were very helpful. Assembled a 372XP for me to run and I was unable to start it - numerous times. Needless to say, I was ashamed of myself. One younger logger asked to give me a hand and he started it with the second pull. This "kid" was built like The Terminator with hands like grapefruits. He handled the 372XP as if it were a popsicle stick. My male identity was totally destroyed for the remainder of the day and in front of so many other guys. Some days, life just ain't fair.

Because of some medical problems I have lost much of my strength in the last three years. I thought I had recovered enough to resume a somewhat normal routine. Guess I just have to work harder at it.

I am not certain of my next step. Might just have to use my MS250 as efficiently as possible and try not to abuse the clutch too much. As usual, the members here came through with reasoned opinions based on their real world experiences. Much appreciated!

Best,

John_M

 

[HittinSteel]

Keep your head up John, sometimes we cannot help the physical limitations we have been dealt. I imagine there have been countless "bigger" logs cut with the MS 250..... just take your time and on some of the larger logs you may have to cut from both sides.

 

[thinkxingu]

John,
I wouldn't look at buying a new saw anyway--I have the 250 as well, with a 16" bar, and for simple bucking it's a fine machine. Starts every time and never bogs down, even with the bar buried.

Besides, I've been thinking this (rough math!): 20 foot 24" diameter logs yield approximately 1/2 cord--(pi)(rsquared)(20)=62--so you would have 12 logs for 6 cord (actually, less because of the air space that would be created when stacking). If cutting those logs into 18" sections, each 20' log would need 13 cuts for a total of 156 cuts for 6 cords of wood!

If you save 5 seconds (very, very, very generous) on each cut with a bigger saw, you'd save 13 minutes total.

If you're not felling and only bucking <24" logs, I'd stick with the lighter saw. How many cords you cut a year?

S

 

[John_M]

Hittin, Thanks, I have recovered from the embarrassement and my attitude is as good as ever. Heck, I might even gain additional strength. I'll certainly try.

thinkx, The most I will ever cut is seven to ten full cords a year. The reason for looking at the 372XP was that I like to have the right tool for the job. I felt a saw with a longer bar and about 60 cc's of displacement would be more appropriate for the load of logs, all of which would be 24" or less. You are right about the MS250. It is a great little saw. Starts very easily and almost immediately, is light, maneuverable, and a real blast to use. I do not see the day when I would want to sell it. If I do purchase another saw it would make sense for it to have approx. 1/3 more cc's then the MS250.

For the time being I am abandoning my search for a larger saw. Who knows what I will attempt 6 months from today.

Best,

John

 

[Gooserider]

Did the saw you were trying have a compression release? I know it makes a BIG difference, and might be the difference for you between being able to start it and not... I know my 7900 will just about break my arm if I don't push the button, but when I do, it's as easy or easier than my 36cc Pull-on w/o a compression release... I've found the same thing using my friend's saws, an assortment of mid-size Husky's and Stihls - the button makes a world of difference...

Gooserider

 

[John_M]

Goose, The service tech who assembeled the saw ran me through the entire starting routine. The compression release was engaged as he described. Of course, the compression release stays in the engaged positon until the saw is started. It then relases automatically. The process of starting the 372XP is really pretty simple. The problem rests in my ability to pull the starter rope far enough, fast enough, and frequently enough.

However, contrary to my earlier announcement, I have not yet fully abandoned the search for a larger saw. It seems this effort has morphed from one in which I was looking for a larger saw to one in which I am trying to achieve a personal goal which, for the moment, appears to be slightly out of reach. I am now on a mission. Today I will finish constructing what I call a "large saw starter bench" using treated lumber. This assembly will allow me to get a longer pull on the starter rope with the saw held in a stable position at about knee height. This position allows me to stabilize the saw without having to bend over for a ground start or hold it between my knees for a more uncomfortable start. The bench weighs about fifteen pounds (edit: 30 lbs. and it looks great. Tomorrow or Friday I'll see how it works) and is easily moved with the built-in hand-hold.

Because the larger saw was intended to be used mostly for bucking purposes I will transport the bench to the bucking site for each cutting session. Transporting the assistant to the bucking site will be a minor inconvenience but provide a grand benefit-starting the saw. In the next 3-4 days I will take the creation to a local Stihl dealer to see how/if it works starting a MS362, which also has a compression release.

It seems I have this remarkable (and perhaps undesireable) ability to turn what should be a trivial pursuit into a compulsive disorder. But, c'est moi. We'll see what happens.

I'll post again when this pursuit is brought to closure, probably within the week.

Best wishes to all.

John_M

 

[HittinSteel]

Good luck John, where there is a will, there is way!

 

[Gooserider]

Sounds like you are making good progress John, and developing workarounds to get past your current limitations... I don't follow the saw models that closely, so I don't know just what features each one has, and wasn't sure if the one you'd been looking at had a compression release - if it hadn't, I would have suggested trying to find a saw that did... However it sounds like you are ahead of me in that regard.

Another possible option, which would take a lot more modifications, and has it's own limitations, might be to try coming up with a "dragster starter" style setup, with an external motor (maybe a cordless drill?) that hooked into the saw in some way, just for starting purposes... Not sure just how to do it, but it would seem like something that might work if just your stand doesn't.

Gooserider

 

[kenskip1]

John, Before I moved to Texas I used to live in Rome NY. I spent many days drooling at the saws in Kaylors showroom. The man with hands like grapefruit name is "Mike" These are some great people to work with. I used to get all my parts from them. As to your physical abilities, just do not bite off more than you are able to chew. Just to let you know something that I had spinal surgery at Upstate Medical center by Dr. Frederickson in 92. anyway, I am now residing here in cozy Texas. I got tired of having to pay someone to shovel off my roof. The temperature outside is now 68. Ken

 

[John_M]

Goose, My current thinking is that this stand will be my last effort to develop a starting aid. If this works, and I believe it will work handsomely, I will probably purchase the 372XP or the MS362. I would be delusional thinking I need a saw larger than the 372XP at 70.7 cc's. I might go my trusted Stihl dealer tomorrow or Friday to try starting the MS362 again. I am very optomistic about the stand being exactly what I need for starting the saw. I might even visit the Husqvarna dealer again (much farther away) because they treated me so honorable the first time. I fear either dealer might want to steal the bench/cradle from me.

If I were to pursue a more sophisticated starting aid I might be tempted to purchase a saw I have no reasonable right to be using. Ken is very correct in suggesting I not bite off more than I can chew.

Ken, Thanks for the heads up about not biting off more than I can chew. I believe I am okay in that regard. The great state of Texas is worlds away from upstate NY. I am told the people and climate there are most cordial. I still enjoy four distinct seasons and have not yet had the urge to become a "snow bunny". For those who are unfamiliar, a "snow bunny" is one who heads south when the weather turns cold and snowy.

I'll post the outcome of all these efforts within the week.

Best,

John_M

 

[bogydave]

Site for looking up chains, bars & sprockets for your saw
"DP" chain as HittinSteel mentioned is made for what you described.

(broken link removed)

 

[jebatty]

I've had my 372XP for about 6 years and never a problem. It's never died on me, even while idling. Never even replaced the spark plug. I have the 18" bar on mine. It does all my cutting almost as easy as cutting butter. A lot less work than a smaller saw. I always fuel it with premium gas and stabilizer.

As to the compression release, it there is sufficient compression generated on a pull, you may have to push the release button back in. It should always pull easy until it actually starts.

EDIT: I cut equivalent of about 10-15 cords/year firewood plus 5,000 board feet of logs for the sawmill.

 

[John_M]

Jim, The 372XP is a terrific saw. That is why I went to the dealer 1 hour away to purchase one. However, I wanted to be certain I was capable of starting the saw before I purchased it. I am familiar with the Stihl starting routine but needed information on the Husqvarna starting technique. The good people at the dealership showed me the procedure and I tried 3-4 times to start the saw but was unsuccessful. The guys watched every move I made and said I did everything right. They were surprised it didn't start.

Then the guy built like The Terminator with hands like leathered grapefruit picked up the saw and started it on the second pull. The saw is great. The problem lies with me - not the saw.

I have not yet given up on a larger saw.

More to come.

Best,

John_M

 

[Gooserider]

I've had my 372XP for about 6 years and never a problem. It's never died on me, even while idling. Never even replaced the spark plug. I have the 18" bar on mine. It does all my cutting almost as easy as cutting butter. A lot less work than a smaller saw. I always fuel it with premium gas and stabilizer.

As to the compression release, it there is sufficient compression generated on a pull, you may have to push the release button back in. It should always pull easy until it actually starts.

EDIT: I cut equivalent of about 10-15 cords/year firewood plus 5,000 board feet of logs for the sawmill.

What I find on my Dolmar is that the compression release pops when the saw "burps" or almost starts, but doesn't stay running... If it doesn't fire for at least one revolution, it doesn't pop... My cold or lukewarm starting drill is to pull the choke out (which also sets the throttle lock) pull until it burps, then push the choke back in w/o touching the throttle, reset the CR and then pull once or twice more to start... Hot start is pull the choke out and push it back in to set the throttle lock, push the CR and pull to start...

Gooserider

 

[smokinj]

I've had my 372XP for about 6 years and never a problem. It's never died on me, even while idling. Never even replaced the spark plug. I have the 18" bar on mine. It does all my cutting almost as easy as cutting butter. A lot less work than a smaller saw. I always fuel it with premium gas and stabilizer.

As to the compression release, it there is sufficient compression generated on a pull, you may have to push the release button back in. It should always pull easy until it actually starts.

EDIT: I cut equivalent of about 10-15 cords/year firewood plus 5,000 board feet of logs for the sawmill.

What I find on my Dolmar is that the compression release pops when the saw "burps" or almost starts, but doesn't stay running... If it doesn't fire for at least one revolution, it doesn't pop... My cold or lukewarm starting drill is to pull the choke out (which also sets the throttle lock) pull until it burps, then push the choke back in w/o touching the throttle, reset the CR and then pull once or twice more to start... Hot start is pull the choke out and push it back in to set the throttle lock, push the CR and pull to start...

Gooserider

I have a habit of checking the CR every pull because when your wrong and its not push in its not good.