If you could vent your wood stove either straight out the back to the chimney or up first (several feet) and then out the back wall, which is the preferred or better method?
Thanks, John
Thanks, John
Best direction to vent a wood stove
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In general a vertical run of 3-4' is good, but it really depends on the stove and chimney. If the firebox is shallow and the flue short or cold, the stove may benefit from a vertical run before the 90. But if this is a warm, tall flue that draws very well, then it may not matter much, especially if the horiz run is short.
I'd want my horizontal piece (if I had to have one) somewhere easy to reach, since that's the first part of the piping that will most likely need replacement.
-Soupy1957
-Soupy1957
There is no one-rule-fits-all and I am somewhat confused with BeGreen's advice. My advice seems to run completely opposite.
If going up first and then horizontal introduces more turns, you need to count those turns as reducing the overall flue height used to determine draft. If flue height and flue performance results in marginal draft, you could have even less with additional turns.
A through-the-wall exterior chimney running up through cold space is already at a disadvantage and your draft may be marginal. You might want to sacrifice some of the heat that would be extracted with an up-and-out setup by reducing turns. If you are confiident that there will be adequate draft, Up-and-out may be OK. If you prefer the look of up-and-out, consider double-wall smoke pipe to preserve some of the heat the flue may need to maintain adequate draft.
A straight-out through-the-wall install would mean usingf more expensive class A pipe and it would put the cleanout on the Tee closer to the ground possibly making it harder to do botton-up sweeping.
I have a severe aversion to through-the-wall installs and will always advise a straight-up through-the-roof instead where possible. It puts more of the class A inside a warm chase and with no horizontal sections, there is no place for creosote to drop and collect only to later ignite. I've experienced a chimney fire in a Tee and my father's house burned to the ground because of a chimney fire in a through-the-wall chimney.
If going up first and then horizontal introduces more turns, you need to count those turns as reducing the overall flue height used to determine draft. If flue height and flue performance results in marginal draft, you could have even less with additional turns.
A through-the-wall exterior chimney running up through cold space is already at a disadvantage and your draft may be marginal. You might want to sacrifice some of the heat that would be extracted with an up-and-out setup by reducing turns. If you are confiident that there will be adequate draft, Up-and-out may be OK. If you prefer the look of up-and-out, consider double-wall smoke pipe to preserve some of the heat the flue may need to maintain adequate draft.
A straight-out through-the-wall install would mean usingf more expensive class A pipe and it would put the cleanout on the Tee closer to the ground possibly making it harder to do botton-up sweeping.
I have a severe aversion to through-the-wall installs and will always advise a straight-up through-the-roof instead where possible. It puts more of the class A inside a warm chase and with no horizontal sections, there is no place for creosote to drop and collect only to later ignite. I've experienced a chimney fire in a Tee and my father's house burned to the ground because of a chimney fire in a through-the-wall chimney.
We're in agreement. It's hard to know precisely what problem the OP is trying to solve with just a general question.
My thought was that in the case of a modest height, exterior class A flue on the side of the house I'd prefer a vertical run before exiting the wall to the tee because it starts draft better and is more flexible in case the stove is changed out later. This is especially true it the horiz. connector is longish. However, if the exterior pipe is 30'+ high, then it may draw well regardless. Without a doubt a straightup pipe within the house envelope is the best plan.
My thought was that in the case of a modest height, exterior class A flue on the side of the house I'd prefer a vertical run before exiting the wall to the tee because it starts draft better and is more flexible in case the stove is changed out later. This is especially true it the horiz. connector is longish. However, if the exterior pipe is 30'+ high, then it may draw well regardless. Without a doubt a straightup pipe within the house envelope is the best plan.
Thanks for the advice. To clarify why I am asking: I am having a fireplace installed in our family room and want to add a second flue for a wood stove in the master bedroom (directly above) I have talked to the mason about it (it was actually his idea) and he will be adding a 3'x3' solid masonry inset into the MBR wall with an 8" thimble to a separate 8x8 clay flue in the chimney. I am trying to figure out how high off the floor to install the thimble.
The area where the stove will sit has 8' ceilings, the other half of the bedroom has vaulted ceilings.
Thanks,
John
The area where the stove will sit has 8' ceilings, the other half of the bedroom has vaulted ceilings.
Thanks,
John
Wood stoves in the bedroom are not allowed according to code. There are rare exceptions, but they must be granted by the code enforcing authority in advance. Your mason should have informed you of this.
I did not know that. I thought I read that they were allowed but their is a minimum sq. footage of the BR. I googled wood stoves bedroom code and couldn't fin anything. If you know where I can read up on it let me know.
Thanks, John
Thanks, John
Never mind, I think I found it
SECTION 303
EQUIPMENT AND APPLIANCE LOCATION
303.1 General. Equipment and appliances shall be located as required by this section, specific requirements elsewhere in this code and the conditions of the equipment and appliance listing.
303.2 Hazardous location. Appliances shall not be located in a hazardous location unless listed and approved for specific installation.
303.3 Prohibited locations. Fuel-fired appliances shall not be located in, or obtain combustion air from, any of the following rooms or spaces:
1. Sleeping rooms
2. Bathrooms.
3. Toilet rooms.
4. Storage closets.
5. Surgical rooms.
Exception: This section shall not apply to the following appliances:
1. Direct-vent appliances that obtain all combustion air directly from the outdoors.
2. Solid fuel-fired appliances, provided that the room is not a confined space and the building is not of unusually tight construction.
3. Appliances installed in a dedicated enclosure in which all combustion air is taken directly from the outdoors, in accordance with Section 703. Access to such enclosure shall be through a solid door, weather-stripped in accordance with the exterior door air leakage requirements of the International Energy Conservation Code and equipped with an approved self-closing device.â€
Exception is made for a wood stove, as long as it’s easy to get out, and the room doesn’t seal too tight. Gas appliances are a bigger concern for bedrooms. Odds are good that most local jurisdictions follow IMC.
I didn't read that this prohibits a wood stove in a large bedroom.
John
SECTION 303
EQUIPMENT AND APPLIANCE LOCATION
303.1 General. Equipment and appliances shall be located as required by this section, specific requirements elsewhere in this code and the conditions of the equipment and appliance listing.
303.2 Hazardous location. Appliances shall not be located in a hazardous location unless listed and approved for specific installation.
303.3 Prohibited locations. Fuel-fired appliances shall not be located in, or obtain combustion air from, any of the following rooms or spaces:
1. Sleeping rooms
2. Bathrooms.
3. Toilet rooms.
4. Storage closets.
5. Surgical rooms.
Exception: This section shall not apply to the following appliances:
1. Direct-vent appliances that obtain all combustion air directly from the outdoors.
2. Solid fuel-fired appliances, provided that the room is not a confined space and the building is not of unusually tight construction.
3. Appliances installed in a dedicated enclosure in which all combustion air is taken directly from the outdoors, in accordance with Section 703. Access to such enclosure shall be through a solid door, weather-stripped in accordance with the exterior door air leakage requirements of the International Energy Conservation Code and equipped with an approved self-closing device.â€
Exception is made for a wood stove, as long as it’s easy to get out, and the room doesn’t seal too tight. Gas appliances are a bigger concern for bedrooms. Odds are good that most local jurisdictions follow IMC.
I didn't read that this prohibits a wood stove in a large bedroom.
John
You have messed up the Forum John. You might be the second one here to actually read the whole NFPA spec and understand what the words "Solid fuel fired" means. 
Scholar.
Scholar.I cut and paste that excerpt of the code from another thread in this forum (https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewreply/634437/) It was really early this morning. The last sentence is mine. Here is another (more complete) section of the code which specifically allows it.
Bedroom Fireplaces
SECTION 303
EQUIPMENT AND APPLIANCE LOCATION
303.1 General. Equipment and appliances shall be located as required by this section, specific requirements elsewhere in this code and the conditions of the equipment and appliance listing.
303.2 Hazardous location. Appliances shall not be located in a hazardous location unless listed and approved for specific installation.
303.3 Prohibited locations. Fuel-fired appliances shall not be located in, or obtain combustion air from, any of the following rooms or spaces:
1. Sleeping rooms
2. Bathrooms.
3. Toilet rooms.
4. Storage closets.
5. Surgical rooms.
Exception: This section shall not apply to the following appliances:
1. Direct-vent appliances that obtain all combustion air directly from the outdoors.
2. Solid fuel-fired appliances, provided that the room is not a confined space and the building is not of unusually tight construction.
3. Appliances installed in a dedicated enclosure in which all combustion air is taken directly from the outdoors, in accordance with Section 703. Access to such enclosure shall be through a solid door, weather-stripped in accordance with the exterior door air leakage requirements of the International Energy Conservation Code and equipped with an approved self-closing device.
So on my permit drawings I will specifically state the bedroom square footage and the return air duct in the room. I can see that I may be required to install a non close-able transfer duct from the bedroom to the main portion of the house but the return air grill would perform the same function.
If I am missing something I would appreciate someone chiming in. I would rather get my permit through the county on the first attempt.
Oh yea, and the the bedroom has a smoke as well as a CO detector.
Thanks, John
Bedroom Fireplaces
SECTION 303
EQUIPMENT AND APPLIANCE LOCATION
303.1 General. Equipment and appliances shall be located as required by this section, specific requirements elsewhere in this code and the conditions of the equipment and appliance listing.
303.2 Hazardous location. Appliances shall not be located in a hazardous location unless listed and approved for specific installation.
303.3 Prohibited locations. Fuel-fired appliances shall not be located in, or obtain combustion air from, any of the following rooms or spaces:
1. Sleeping rooms
2. Bathrooms.
3. Toilet rooms.
4. Storage closets.
5. Surgical rooms.
Exception: This section shall not apply to the following appliances:
1. Direct-vent appliances that obtain all combustion air directly from the outdoors.
2. Solid fuel-fired appliances, provided that the room is not a confined space and the building is not of unusually tight construction.
3. Appliances installed in a dedicated enclosure in which all combustion air is taken directly from the outdoors, in accordance with Section 703. Access to such enclosure shall be through a solid door, weather-stripped in accordance with the exterior door air leakage requirements of the International Energy Conservation Code and equipped with an approved self-closing device.
So on my permit drawings I will specifically state the bedroom square footage and the return air duct in the room. I can see that I may be required to install a non close-able transfer duct from the bedroom to the main portion of the house but the return air grill would perform the same function.
If I am missing something I would appreciate someone chiming in. I would rather get my permit through the county on the first attempt.
Oh yea, and the the bedroom has a smoke as well as a CO detector.
Thanks, John
I'd go in and ask for a code review before submitting for the permit. The room will need to be large. You will probably be required to provide the room cubic footage and proven air exchange far exceeds the stove air consumption. (An OAK may help getting this variance.) The return air grille probably won't make a difference except that it will need to be at least 10ft away from the stove. An open entryway, no door, may help more. Note that many stove manuals explicitly say their stove is not to be installed in a sleeping area and depending on the code reviewer, that may trump all.
Seems like a lot of hassle and expense for the rare fire there. Maybe just put a flat screen in a nice brick veneer surround and play a fireplace dvd? In the summer you can put on polar bears or an aquarium.
Seems like a lot of hassle and expense for the rare fire there. Maybe just put a flat screen in a nice brick veneer surround and play a fireplace dvd? In the summer you can put on polar bears or an aquarium.
BeGreen said:
+1 & lol on the aquarium.
I interpret "confined" to mean "small", and up to the judgment of local code authorities.
I'd love to have a stove in my bedroom.
To clarify the situation, I highly recommend you talk to the local inspector. The words are meaningless until he makes his determination on how the wording affects your situation. I know for sure that we have a new inspector in our township and he interprets things a lot different than the former fellow did. It pays to ask questions first!
My county website has a a fireplace FAQ and the bedroom question is listed. The only prohibition is," unvented gas appliances (i.e., gas logs, room heaters) cannot be installed in and draw combustion air from bedrooms, bathrooms, toilet rooms or storage closets."
It further states that vented and glass sealed gas logs are approved for bedrooms. There is no mention of wood stoves which makes me believe I will be okay. If I am rejected I will eat crow here and let you all know, hahahaahha.
It further states that vented and glass sealed gas logs are approved for bedrooms. There is no mention of wood stoves which makes me believe I will be okay. If I am rejected I will eat crow here and let you all know, hahahaahha.
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